Blaster won’t idle help please

Howard

Member
Oct 15, 2019
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Berkeley Springs Wv
So my blaster won’t idle I tried to set the air flow screw 1 1/2 turns still won’t idle. I have a tors delete kit and the screw on the right side of carb is weird and loose in the whole anyone know how to set that screw
 

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So my blaster won’t idle I tried to set the air flow screw 1 1/2 turns still won’t idle. I have a tors delete kit and the screw on the right side of carb is weird and loose in the whole anyone know how to set that screw
Also found out that the screw is stripped so what should I do ??
 
Also found out that the screw is stripped so what should I do ??
I would look on eBay for a good used oem carburetor body and get a new idle screw kit and redo it. If you want to try to save this one you could try a “heli coil” repair kit. I don’t know if there is enough metal around the screw to use a heli coil or other thread repair kit.
 
I would look on eBay for a good used oem carburetor body and get a new idle screw kit and redo it. If you want to try to save this one you could try a “heli coil” repair kit. I don’t know if there is enough metal around the screw to use a heli coil or other thread repair kit.[/QUOTE. What is the helicoil size I should use?
 
I think it’s a 6mm by 0.75 thread. That’s what the motion pro ones are. I would assume the other brands would be the same size?
I would use a drill press when drilling for the heli coil, To get it as straight as possible, and not to go through too deep and mark the inside of the carb up. And when installing the heli coil I would set it in just under flush with the outer part of the hole.
 
So my blaster won’t idle I tried to set the air flow screw 1 1/2 turns still won’t idle. I have a tors delete kit and the screw on the right side of carb is weird and loose in the whole anyone know how to set that screw
So my blaster won’t idle I tried to set the air flow screw 1 1/2 turns still won’t idle. I have a tors delete kit and the screw on the right side of carb is weird and loose in the whole anyone know how to set that screw
I was looking at your picture of the carb more and noticed there is alittle piece of hose for the oil injection line left on it (the upper left small hose in the picture). Are you using the oil injection still? If not, that needs to be blocked off so no air or dirt gets sucked in. It will be running way lean with it open.
 
I was looking at your picture of the carb more and noticed there is alittle piece of hose for the oil injection line left on it (the upper left small hose in the picture). Are you using the oil injection still? If not, that needs to be blocked off so no air or dirt gets sucked in. It will be running way lean with it open.
It was like that when I got it they told me they where mixing 32:1 fuel and just didn’t use the oil injection
 
As of right now I put thread tape around the idle screw that was stripped out and it is pretty tight right now and I didn’t screw it all the way in. It is out maybe 3 turns and is tight. The blaster runs strong and the only problem I am having is it won’t idle. Could it be because of that oil injection line not blocked off?
 
Do I still need to block that off?
Yes it must be blocked, that is a big air leak. And could be a big part of it not idling. I would take the rest of the hose off and the little brass ring that’s around it (that’s just to keep it tight on the nipple) Then you can get small vacuum caps at an auto parts store and pop it over the small nipple and use a small zip tie for extra security.
 
As of right now I put thread tape around the idle screw that was stripped out and it is pretty tight right now and I didn’t screw it all the way in. It is out maybe 3 turns and is tight. The blaster runs strong and the only problem I am having is it won’t idle. Could it be because of that oil injection line not blocked off?
I also did a compression test today and it is at 120?
 
Yes it must be blocked, that is a big air leak. And could be a big part of it not idling. I would take the rest of the hose off and the little brass ring that’s around it (that’s just to keep it tight on the nipple) Then you can get small vacuum caps at an auto parts store and pop it over the small nipple and use a small zip tie for extra security.
Ok will do first thing in the morning thank you
 
Also have another question what trans oil should I be using? I am using atf type f right now should I use something better and what do you recommend?
I personally use a synthetic motorcycle transmission oil, specific to wet clutches. It’s Bel Ray 80w “Gear saver” oil. It’s nicer than others because it’s red and easier to see in the engines sight glass. But you can only get it at motorcycle dealers, not like your local auto parts store. So if you want something easier to get at an auto parts store I would use Castrol 10w-30 motorcycle oil. It’s made for wet clutches. Not synthetic but it’s still good oil. I use that in my Honda XR.