I just put in a new crankshaft crank bearings seals all new gaskets n carb rebuild kit on my blaster and i had been starting it up n letting it run for a little bit n taking it around the yard a couple times nuthing major just puttin around on it and the last time i tried to start it it started first kick i let it warm up for about a couple minutes n wen i went to take off i shifted into first let the clutch out n it died...after that it wud not kick start i checked the plug it was fine tried choking it it had gas oil everything..so i had my brother try to push start me n i shifted into second and the wheels wud not catch like it was still in nuetral...it does this in every gear n i have no clue wat the problem could be...if anyone knows or has had this happen please let me no wats wrong!!!
Blaster Transmission problem
- Thread starter Ferratto3
- Start date
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
you sure you torqued up the primary drive gear that engages with the clutch boss? (behind clutch cover, behind clutch plates?) did you build the motor with the help of a manual?
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
did you align the balancer shaft gear with the primary drive gear? if it wont start it may because of that... did you hear any noises? did it run perfect to start with? did you have the transmission clusters out as well?
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
could also be your shift shaft is not properly engaging with the shift star, but the bike would still start and run, you just wouldnt have gears.
yea we torqued everything down according to the clymer manual i bought...but yea i will try all those suggestions im kinda new to this 4wheeler stuff...n it didnt run perfect to start with i had to buy a carb rebuild kit after i got it running cuz the motor was gitting waaay hot for how short i had it running i put a bigger main jet in it after the rebuild kit n it still seemed like it was gitting too hot..
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
you sure you running oil in the autolube tank and that the lines are clear with no airlocks? or do you use premix?
sounds wierd, the two seem unrelated. meaure your compression and let us know
puzzeling as to why you lost drive. did you hear a clunk or anything when the drive was lost but engine still running?
sounds wierd, the two seem unrelated. meaure your compression and let us know
puzzeling as to why you lost drive. did you hear a clunk or anything when the drive was lost but engine still running?
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
well, you going to have to open it, nothing you can fix from the outside, start with taking off the clutch cover and make sure everything is in place, maybe take off the clutch boss too and check if your balance shaft and primary drive are engaged with the dots on the pulleys aligned, also check and make sure your shift shaft is working the shift star and that it is lined up. id also stand the bike on end, take off the ehaust and check through the port for any sign of unhealthyness in the cylinder and on the piston skirt. then take the flywheel cover off the other side and make sure your magneto is bolted up and that you have not shearded a woodruff key. if you are sure there are no problems there, whip off the barrel (you can leave the head attached) and rotate the crank by hand and feel whats going on.
if you go as far as splitting cases (you may have to) make sure the selector drum is set up right with the selector forks and whatnot--that thing can be confusing. that may be where your problem is... but since its related to the running of the engine, it may be the balance shaft out of sync
if you go as far as splitting cases (you may have to) make sure the selector drum is set up right with the selector forks and whatnot--that thing can be confusing. that may be where your problem is... but since its related to the running of the engine, it may be the balance shaft out of sync
