Blaster need help

one hose should come out of each side and one out the bottom of the carb

dont adjust it a lot at a time. and always remember which way you moved it last

and is the engine firing or just turning over? there is a difference.

also, turn that air screw all the way in, and then back out 1.5 revolutions
 
I only have one screw to adjust on carb

aahhh ok
you better get us some more pics of this blaster if you plan on it running much longer:)
you should read up on here alot look at images/videos on internet ect.
yes idle is under seat/airscrew is near gasline from tank to carb..tons of pics on web of right setup:)

02 carb with text 1 1 1.jpg
 
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Idle speed adjustment..

Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+L

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
 
The tube from the bottom of the float bowl has a dual purpose, it acts as an overflow for the float bowl and also to drain the bowl when the drain screw is opened.
It should run down to the lowest point possible.
The 2 others are breather tubes and should be open to the atmosphere.

There is also a smaller hose which is the oil injection feed.
 
Wow !! Thanks a lot guys for all ur help have learned a good bit. I have been on site reading an looking at pics an watching a lot of video an figure a lil out but was confused a lot but until I started back on getting it running an coming here to forums an asking questions have learned a lot an has helped a lot thanks a bunch
 
If you ever have a question, no matter how small, lots of the guys are very knowledgeable on here and are willing to help.

If you prefer a one on one conversation on a touchy subject, most folks are willing to offer their services.
 
Does anyone have a cap ? I need the one that screws down on top of carb the one that came with it was stripped out
 
Here r some pics of blaster
 

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I cut that brown looking hose n half an tried cranking it so I can set the idle screw an now for some reason it's having a hard time to crank an run so I can try setting the idle screw. Where about does the idle screw needs to be. I turned n air screw all the way n an backed out 1.5 but not sure where to set the idle screw on tors
 
Judging by how things were done on this you need to check the main jet to see that it has been jetted for that pipe. Its number 11 on the diagram speedy posted. Should be a number on it, let us know. Also should be a rubber coupling on that exhaust connection, and I don't see a gasket on the intake. Also the regular hose clamps on each side of the carb don't work so well by themselves, the originals are not as wide and ride in a channel. I have reg clamps on mine as well but I used some strips of 1/4 inch wide zip ties under them to get good equal pressure on the connections. You should also read up on this http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/about-air-leaks-save-your-engine.55537/
 
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Actually where that tube is going on the carb is the oil injection. The little one beside it is the fuel overflow. Need to put a cap on the injection!!! Better of getting this http://www.ebay.com/itm/TORS-Throttle-Eliminator-Cable-Blaster-w-Idle-Screws-Kit-
Motion-Pro-/221589616882?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3397c538f2&vxp=mtr
and doing this http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-your-tors.655/ Don't run it without the injection capped and a good seal on the carb top as that is an airleak and will make it go boom

Yea I been wanting to get the tors elimator for a while just haven't had the extra cash. What crazy is the guy that gave me the blaster stripped out the cap an not sure if where the cap screws down on carb isn't stripped out or cross threaded he had jb weld on it an it was a pain to get off an get all jb clean off
 
Whatever you do, do not start the engine again until you have capped the oil injection nipple.
It will be drawing air from the float bowl drain, and will be producing a destructively lean mixture.

It would be a very good idea to leak test the engine because if there is no gasket on the reed block, the chances of it leaking is great, and engine destruction is immanent.

Idle speed adjustment.

Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
 
go to an auto parts store and get VACUME PLUGS...To cap off the oil injection nipple..they are like 2-3 dolllars for a multi pack of them
in this particular pack i got at autozone it is the yellow one that fits...and it is 1/8...some people say it is 3/16,but for my 05 blaster with this pack it is 1/8:)
vacum plugs.jpg
 
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