Blaster master

izzo

New Member
Dec 9, 2014
42
11
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Astoria, OR
www.nwdatsuns.com
04 I think blaster.

Just traded my yamaha warrior for it. Pics later. The warrior was reliable and ran great, but lacked power a bit even with a bunch of mods.

A friend convinced me to trade the warrior for this. To bad when we got there we learned it wouldn't shift past second gear. It's as if the shifter hits a wall. It will not move up at all. I tore the side case off. Star looks great, moves. Just stuck... Goes in first N and 2nd find. Just not 3rd thru 6th.


Anyways. Found a complete trans on ebay for 39 bucks. Probably going to order that up and throw it in. Need to get a few misc parts. Some Yamabond #4. I need a clutch boss. Does anyone have one? one of the towers is broke on mine.

This is a budget bike. I don't have money to invest really. The oil pump is hooked up still. Bike seems to be in decent shape. Starts pretty easy.


Anyone have insight on the trans? I looked around on the net... And read up a bunch of info. I double checked the star and such, everything in the side case seems to be fine. I can't get the star to move by hand either... So guessing the drum is screwed or the fork.


I will get pics up in a bit. Anyone have a clutch boss??? In desperate need of one on the cheap.
 
Sounds like a shift fork may be bent. Or worse case, a broken gear. Just split the case and inspect everything. Change out all your seals and gaskets. You can spin the trans and cycle it with the case split and the gears in one side. You will be able to see exactly where they are binding up.
 
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make sure someone doesn't have too long of a trans drain plug in it.
speeddemon on here tore his down 6 times looking for why it wouldn't shift past 2nd or 3rd,
only to find the fancy magnetic drain plug he put in it was hitting the shift drum.
remove the drain plug and see if it helps ?

also, if you didn't have it running when checking the shifting, jack the backend up and rotate the wheels as you try to shift, some won't shift at all without everything rotating as it should.

as for the shift shaft detent, if the springs are out of place or weak, and the detent plate (?) that moves the shift star) isn't returning to it's nuetral position, it will not shift any further up or down until it is manually put back to it's nuetral position
i'd pull the shift shaft and try turning the shift star by hand while rotating the wheels to see if it shifts.

just a few things to check before splitting the cases.
these things aren't known for bent shift forks often
 
make sure someone doesn't have too long of a trans drain plug in it.
speeddemon on here tore his down 6 times looking for why it wouldn't shift past 2nd or 3rd,
only to find the fancy magnetic drain plug he put in it was hitting the shift drum.
remove the drain plug and see if it helps ?

also, if you didn't have it running when checking the shifting, jack the backend up and rotate the wheels as you try to shift, some won't shift at all without everything rotating as it should.

as for the shift shaft detent, if the springs are out of place or weak, and the detent plate (?) that moves the shift star) isn't returning to it's nuetral position, it will not shift any further up or down until it is manually put back to it's nuetral position
i'd pull the shift shaft and try turning the shift star by hand while rotating the wheels to see if it shifts.

just a few things to check before splitting the cases.
these things aren't known for bent shift forks often


Got it from a friend of a friend. It's always ran and rode. This gear switching problem that is new. It did have a high idle issue... I'll get that figured out later tho. It idled fine when I rode it, just can't switch gears. I think the drain plug is stock. But I will try it!


I tried rocking the bike to get it to switch gears. I also pulled the side cover off. Springs are all good. The shifter shaft pops in place with same resistance up or down (going by feel lol). Other springs look good.

pics I got of the side case off. Excuse the busted clutch basket/boss. These have been broken for some time apparently. I didn't find the chunks inside.. So someone had to have it apart at one point to remove them.


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Your high idle could be an air leak. Suggest a leak down test.

Actually, seeing you have almost everything out of the way, replacing that crank seal now is good preventive maintenance. Be sure to apply sealer to crank collar before install. they sometimes leak there.
 
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Your high idle could be an air leak. Suggest a leak down test.

Actually, seeing you have almost everything out of the way, replacing that crank seal now is good preventive maintenance. Be sure to apply sealer to crank collar before install. they sometimes leak there.


I was going to order a oil seal kit while i had the cases split. may as well. I've always used napa brand Syl-Glyde on rear main seals and such on my cars. Had good luck with that. it basically does the same thing. Wonder if I could use that on these oil seals or just get some pro circuit red grease stuff. IDK.

This is where it sits now. I figured out it is an 05 also. Just have to remove the swing arm bolt and the motor will come out. I ordered a used trans off ebay from a reputable seller. Complete trans for 40 bucks shipped. not bad. All I need now is some oil seals, gasket kit, three bond 1194, clutch basket.. And I should have a runner.

EEEEEEEEEEEW
Before
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Some dollar store "LA's Totally awesome" and a 50 cent paint brush... 5-10 minutes of dabbing/brushing and...
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Haha that dollar stuff works good. By me the brand name changes but it all seems to be the same stuff.. You cant beat the price for sure,, and it works.. Bike is lookin good btw..
 
Thanks for the tips, and compliments. I washed the bike before tear down. You can see how much I missed since its all covered by plastics. A pressure washer is on my list of things to get. That dollar store stuff is amazing. I buy the "refills" which come as a bigger bottle of cleaner just missing the sprayer. I am going to hit the motor hard with it and a wire brush before I even pop the side cases off. My things aren't always new, or very nice. But I try and keep them clean and neat.

Can't wait for my parts to get here. Am going to way to split the cases or do any more work until the parts arrive. It's easier for me to tear it down, clean, and put it back together if I have all the pieces here. Seems things get misplaced or lost over time.
 
Not much progress today. Was able to work the swing arm bolt out by myself and get the motor out. It's going to clean up nicely. Found out my transmission is being shipped to my old address. Will have to figured that out next wednesday when it shows up. My girls dad lives over there. I can probably have him keep an eye out for it.

Just pulled the motor. Not breaking it apart until all parts are here. It's very tempting to. I just did a small test spot with some LA's Awesome and a wire brush. It's going to look good!

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your float bowl looks like it has seen some better days. does it have a dent in the side of it?
 
Yup. Looks like someone beat on it at one point. My guess is they were beating on the drain screw and kept missing whatever they were hitting. it's only really in that one spot, and that drain screw is welded in there. It will get replaced down the road. May end up just running a different carb, haven't decided yet. This will get me thru next summer tho.
 
One of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/bolt-type-wheel-puller-set-69889.html works great for splitting cases. Even comes with right length and thread bolts for the job. Cases actually have same threaded holes on both stator and clutch side. Usually crank is slip fit on clutch side, you shouldn't have to heat brg to assemble.

The collar I was talking about is on clutch side, slides on crank and into crank seal. They sometimes leak between crank and collar. A smear of 3bond inside collar before install works.

ALWAYS lube oil seals, new or old, on assembly.
 
One of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/bolt-type-wheel-puller-set-69889.html works great for splitting cases. Even comes with right length and thread bolts for the job. Cases actually have same threaded holes on both stator and clutch side. Usually crank is slip fit on clutch side, you shouldn't have to heat brg to assemble.

The collar I was talking about is on clutch side, slides on crank and into crank seal. They sometimes leak between crank and collar. A smear of 3bond inside collar before install works.

ALWAYS lube oil seals, new or old, on assembly.



Noted. Thanks for the heads up. For 13 bucks I cant pass up that tool! I usually use air to get nuts off. But during assembly I always use tools meant for the job. IE, borrow a flywheel tool, use a tuning fork like Ken does in his videos etc. I am going to order some stainless steel case bolts for assembly. There's no way I can torque screws lol. Tho, I do have a bit that would fit. It would just slide out and strip them. I guess I could use a hammer screw, but meh. I just rather do it a better way.


I cleaned up the bike. Washed it with a soft brush, let dry, then washed the old school way. Some soap and a wash cloth. It sucks you can't tell where you missed until its dry. I found a few spots I missed. Ah well.


Good news. My buddy came over, and we were playing with it. Was able to get it to shift thru all the gears. Oh the temptation of putting it back in and giving it a rip this afternoon. But, was able to avoid temptation... I already have gears and forks and all the goodies in the mail. My guess, is there is a piece of metal or something in there jamming it up. As the motor was upside down, it shifted great. Throw it right side up, and it was snagging and being a pain in the butt. Can't be having chunks of metal up in there now... Haha.

Curiosity is such a bad thing. Really want to tear into it and see what the problem is. If i can find some GOOD quality bags to label everything and put it in, i may tear it apart now and see what the problem is. This will give me time to get the cases cleaned and ready for when the parts and gaskets etc show up. Hmmm... I don't have one of those hammer driver tools to pop the case screws loose anyways. Guess I will wait a few. So so tempting.



Pics... Everyone out there is a pic whore. Nobody can say otherwise! So, here's a few pics just cuz.

Cleaned.
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Called it a night.
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And we had a package arrive. It is part of the kids christmas stuff. Cats sure do love a box lol.
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Looking good man! I remember the temptations when I was building mine. Here's some pics!
Before:
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After
image.jpg

It's a constant work in progress. It's taken me a year or so to get here. I like the Blasters so much because you can make them your own. And the tons of aftermarket goodies you can get for them.
 
Man. That's just inspiration right there. Looks good.


I was very amazed how much stuff is available for these things. I just traded a warrior for this and there wasn't a lot of options. I thought there were more warriors out there than blasters, but I was so wrong.

Even with the trans issue and having to redo the motor. I think I came out ahead in the way of aftermarket stuff. Shoot I just looked up extended swing arms on ebay. Only 250 bucks. That's cheap!


Oh. And soon as I get a few extra bucks after the motor fixing. I am going with warrior/banshee rear hubs. The lug pattern yamaha chose for these is just silly. I have some Douglas wheels with ITP paddles for my old warrior. I rather just get new hubs than re drill my wheels. But... Well see.
 
well. I am going to flush the trans. Buddies came over, we fiddled with the motor every which way from sunday. Blew it out, flushed it a few times.

It's getting put back on the frame once I can locate a clutch basket/hub. I am going to fill it, run it, drain it a few times to flush it out. It's never not shifted, and it's not doing it now. When I first went to get it, it was empty and had real nasty oil in it and it wasn't on the fill line. Hard to tell it even had any in it. A few flushes, a few rips, and well see how it does.