blaster idles but bogs down no powerband

Discussion in 'General Support' started by blas, Jul 28, 2013.

  1. blas

    blas New Member

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    I have a 2000 blaster completely stock minus tors removal. Starts and idles great but bogs under load and will not hit power band. Backfires and runs like total crap. Tors removed fresh plug and gas. Compression good and I've tried 2 different stock carbs. One of which is off my friend's blaster that runs great. I've searched and searched forums and have tried everything it seems. Anyone have a suggestion? Thank you in advance
     
  2. warmeck

    warmeck Member

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    i am having the same issue its your jetting, i messed with my jetting and got it to do more powerband but it still does the same thing so i have to buy more jets to and plug chop them to find the correct one... what are your mods/pipe and what is ur jetting
     
  3. blas

    blas New Member

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    Its all stock. Stock jets, pipe, silencer etc. Its so bad that I can't climb my driveway in first without it stalling out. Cleaned carb and tried my buddy's which I know is good and its the same
     
  4. Larry's Shee

    Larry's Shee Active Member

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    Is this a sudden problem, or one that has been getting gradualy worse?
     
  5. blas

    blas New Member

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    I've only had it for a few weeks. I picked it up cheap came without the carb so I never heard it run
     
  6. Blaaster

    Blaaster Moderator Staff Member Technician Forum Supporter

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    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 6, 2014
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  7. best

    best Active Member

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    Well, if it runs well with one carb, there is hope.

    Compression test (it is simple and readily available) for over 100psi,
    then leak test (because it is essential!) for the engine to hold 7-5 psi for over a minute.
    Build your own leaktester or buy one but it is essential you do these two tests because these two MINIMUM parameters are essential to run and have power.
    Leaks especially can really screw up jetting and engine operation and can be as destructive as bad jetting on pistons, cylinders and cranks.

    Once those two minimum parameters are assured, then you have to check and adjust your jetting with a plug chop.
    You start from the top with your main jet, down to your needle, the pilot and finally the adjustable idle mixture and speed screws.

    A good starting point is whatever the working carb is running, but 2 times out of 3 just sticking a good working mystery carb on a 2 stroke will result in mechanical engine death. Bite the bullet, do the job right, it is cheaper in the long run. Borrow a compression tester, $25 of hardware store parts builds a leak tester, and $12 of spark plugs and an afternoon's work should get that engine running like a top. Not doing this will most likely cost you a $500 crank and piston rebuild, and well as many, many hours of sucky performance and futzing to get it to run.

    Steve
     
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  8. Blastyblast78

    Blastyblast78 New Member

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    Did you ever figure it out mine is does the same thing, to much throttle and bogs 1/2 throttle will run like a raped ape. Cant figure it out.
     
  9. blaster7

    blaster7 Member

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    This question has been asked about a thousand times on here, all of the information that you need is on this forum. Start by of course checking and cleaning the carb and setting float height. Then proceed to do a leak down test and compression test. After all of this checks out then proceed to checking the reed pedals and ignition/electronics to make sure that it is getting consistent spark. Some things to check for are spark plug, flywheel key and coil, I have personally seen all of these thing cause issues with the way they run. I have also seen tors create problems as well.

    Good luck, and if you do manage to find the issue please let everyone know so for future reference people can compare there issues with yours and might find a solution.
     

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