Bad break-in, bad piston?

Discussion in 'Engine' started by lucknuts, Jun 24, 2019.

  1. lucknuts

    lucknuts Member

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    My buddy bought and put in a piston on my blaster while I’ve been busy with work. I rode it around for two full gas tanks somewhat easy with a dab extra 2stroke oil in the gas. It is still oil injected, no tors delete on it. He just said it’d be good for it.

    It was more than a few days of riding it and finally I got wide open throttle on it and I believe I was in 4th and it just went poof. It does start but all I hear is metal screeching. Still great compression. I took it apart and checkout the piston and head. Checked out the shift crank gears and nothing there. Opened stator side and everything is alllll good.

    Quite a few scratches inside. Head and piston scratches also. No real grooves though.

    Should I just buy a new piston? If so 66mm is stock I believe, it’s been a while. Wiseco? Link me to a good deal.

    Tried uploading different pictures, keeps saving pictures are too large and server can’t handle it. Idk their just pics from my phone. :/
     

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  2. Larry's Shee

    Larry's Shee Active Member

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    Several questions, some for you, some youlyo have to ask you buddy. No particular order.
    Was a leak down test done? Did you do heat cycles and re-torque after? What brand piston? What was ring end gap? (Was it even checked?) Was a new piston put in an old hole? If so, why?

    Check bearings on both ends of rod. Side clearance , Visually inspect small end bearing. Do not reuse piston pin clips.
     
  3. Larry's Shee

    Larry's Shee Active Member

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    Can you get a better pic of lower end? Coloration looks weird.
     
  4. Blaaster

    Blaaster Moderator Staff Member Technician

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    Adding extra oil the the fuel creates more heat as the fuel quantity in the mix becomes less.

    Was the oil pump bled of all the air before the engine was started..
     
  5. lucknuts

    lucknuts Member

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    No leak down test. I have one at my house now that I got off eBay a while ago but it doesn’t fit properly so haven’t used it.

    No to the heat cycles. I watched that video from ken O’Conner to damn late. I asked him about that and he said he’s never had to. When I opened it up they came off pretty simple.

    I can’t tell the brand of piston, he said it’s either ace or top notch.

    I’m going to assume no ring gap was checked. As far as I know I believe it was a top end kit he got. Guessing amazon. So, no to a new hole.

    I’ll look up how to check bearings. Thanks
     
  6. lucknuts

    lucknuts Member

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    I keep trying to upload pictures I take with my phone and it says the server can’t handle them.
     
  7. lucknuts

    lucknuts Member

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    Oil pump was not bled of air
     
  8. Blaaster

    Blaaster Moderator Staff Member Technician

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    No oil usually causes carnage....
     
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  9. lucknuts

    lucknuts Member

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    Photos.
     

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  10. lucknuts

    lucknuts Member

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    I haven't worked on this in a while, debating on what route to go with it. Sell it as is or take the engine out and do a top/bottom rebuild myself when I have time - been pricing parts out but figured I'd have to buy a tusk case splitter and crank puller (128.59) to figure out what the issue is. OR just plan on replacing crank, bearings, seals and clean everything out. Thoughts?

    Was doing a quick scope and figured if I had to buy the splitter and go nuts this was my list since everything else is stock. Besides the Boysen 630 power reeds.

    Wiseco Crankshaft (includes bearings) 186.99

    Wiseco Piston Kit 117.04

    New Primary Drive Gear 172.99 (current one has play in it and a piece of metal was missing off of it, found them both)

    $605.61 for everything including case splitter/crank puller.

    I don't need anything fancy or balls out. Just stock will be fine?

    If anyone has time to take a moment and let me know what to all go through or main things to check or replace, I've been watching an ass load of videos lately, they definitely don't show everything - I'm just not wanting to throw $1000 into it.

    Appreciate it.
     
  11. Awk08

    Awk08 Administrator Staff Member Technician

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  12. Larry's Shee

    Larry's Shee Active Member

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  13. lucknuts

    lucknuts Member

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  14. lucknuts

    lucknuts Member

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    That will work to split the cases but I will still need to get the crank puller I suppose. Thanks.

    90% of it has all new gaskets and seals on it already. When I take it apart I will get new ones as needed also. I won’t make it a one day and done deal. Want to thoroughly go through it.

    Me either. My guess is I need a new one. No boring for larger piston. Keeping Everything stock.

    Thank you
     
  15. lucknuts

    lucknuts Member

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    Any ideas where to find a used crank gear? Any search terms I May be missing? Haha. I’m afraid if I get used there will still be slack in the gear if purchased then I got a duplicate of what I just had.
     
  16. Larry's Shee

    Larry's Shee Active Member

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    https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/diy-crank-puller.43994/
    I don’t recall exactly how I did it, but I thought I rigged my balancer puller to split cases and pull crank. That’s been several years, and I’m old enough to start forgetting things :p
    If nothing else look at that thread on how to make a puller.

    As to the gear, exactly how is it loose?
     
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