1999 Blaster Big Bore & Stroker
- Thread starter Jethi
- Start date
Ok i figured RTV on a head gasket was wrong, the instructions say use High-Temp Silicone Sealer, I googled it and red RTV came up. I did not use it on the base gasket either. I picked up some Copper Spray-A-Gasket at lunch, going to slap the head on tonight.
Ok so I got the top end completely together, she turns over nice with no binding. Installed the kicker, did the oil pump delete, and put the clutch cover on. All I have left engine wise is stator, flywheel, cover IIRC off the top of my head. I lost one of the little grommets for the stator, so I had to wait 
It came in yesterday, so I should have the engine done today.
I bought a Keihin PWK 36mm carb based on research I did here. Anyone know where I can source a reed boot? Theres no way this guy is wedging into the stock boot
I cant really use the box for the air filter anymore either, the intake side of the carb is GIANT. The stock airbox boot probably fits inside the mouth of the new carb! lol! So I'm going to poke around until I can find a pod filter for it. I'll get some more pics once things start coming together
It came in yesterday, so I should have the engine done today. I bought a Keihin PWK 36mm carb based on research I did here. Anyone know where I can source a reed boot? Theres no way this guy is wedging into the stock boot
I cant really use the box for the air filter anymore either, the intake side of the carb is GIANT. The stock airbox boot probably fits inside the mouth of the new carb!
lol! So I'm going to poke around until I can find a pod filter for it. I'll get some more pics once things start coming together
Leak test the engine before you fit the carb!
Pre mixing may require you to use larger jetting, also the pod filter on the carb throat can make for problem jetting on aftermarket carbs.
Pre mixing may require you to use larger jetting, also the pod filter on the carb throat can make for problem jetting on aftermarket carbs.
If you do buy it from their site not eBay, it's cheaper. And don't buy the UNI filter from them, you can get it cheaper as well.
Good responses guys.
I looked into the CFM airbox, probably will pick it up from their site, I already bought a UNI filter for the stock airbox, hopefully it's the correct one for the CFM.
I found Moose Racing and UPP make 34-35mm intake boots, should be able to wedge my carb into one of those.
I'll have to make a leak down tester, kits are through the roof!
I looked into the CFM airbox, probably will pick it up from their site, I already bought a UNI filter for the stock airbox, hopefully it's the correct one for the CFM.
I found Moose Racing and UPP make 34-35mm intake boots, should be able to wedge my carb into one of those.
I'll have to make a leak down tester, kits are through the roof!
The filters aren't the same. Look on CFM website, they give a part number for the UNI filter that is needed. It's in the description.
Well heres the engine, all put together and ready to go
Heres what the frame looks like at the moment
Heres the frame next to my buggy frame, the a-arms are currently off the buggy. We're trying to get it off that damned wooden cart so we can take the engine out and sell it. Anyone interested in a 2010 Z1000 engine? 370ish miles only, wiring harness, exhaust, fuel pump, tach, custom airbox hehe not the place nor the time... We just want more power, and of course we're gonna go with good ol' Yamaha R1 power.
I'm currently waiting on some parts, but I have all the frame bearings so it's time to tackle those. Does anyone have a good method for installing these bearings? Everywhere I read/watch they say hammer and a socket, and well, that just sounds ugly. I'll probably use a threaded rod to pull the seals in.
Heres what the frame looks like at the moment
Heres the frame next to my buggy frame, the a-arms are currently off the buggy. We're trying to get it off that damned wooden cart so we can take the engine out and sell it. Anyone interested in a 2010 Z1000 engine? 370ish miles only, wiring harness, exhaust, fuel pump, tach, custom airbox
hehe not the place nor the time... We just want more power, and of course we're gonna go with good ol' Yamaha R1 power.
I'm currently waiting on some parts, but I have all the frame bearings so it's time to tackle those. Does anyone have a good method for installing these bearings? Everywhere I read/watch they say hammer and a socket, and well, that just sounds ugly. I'll probably use a threaded rod to pull the seals in.
Well, everything is coming together well. School started again so I've been distracted with that. I accidentally exploded one of the swingarm bearings while trying to pull the inner seal into place, knocked it with the bolt i was using to pull it in and it smashed the wall and all the rollers fell out so a new bearing is on its way.
I got the motor in the frame and bolted down, and I tried to put the swingarm axle through the frame and engine without the swingarm and it doesnt line up at all. It makes it through one side and through the engine then gets caught on the threads trying to go through the other side, wont go through at all. It seems like its not even close enough to loosen the motor bolts and wiggle some room. I distinctly remember having the hardest time trying to get it out when we were pulling it apart too, is it possible that the tabs could have bent or tweaked?
so a new bearing is on its way. I got the motor in the frame and bolted down, and I tried to put the swingarm axle through the frame and engine without the swingarm and it doesnt line up at all. It makes it through one side and through the engine then gets caught on the threads trying to go through the other side, wont go through at all. It seems like its not even close enough to loosen the motor bolts and wiggle some room. I distinctly remember having the hardest time trying to get it out when we were pulling it apart too, is it possible that the tabs could have bent or tweaked?
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