1999 Blaster Big Bore & Stroker

[bansheedave]

That screw holds the electrical connection for the tors unit. It can be removed if the tors isn't used and the hole filled in with black silicone. If you removed the oil pump, those wires can be taped up into the harness cause they don't serve any purpose anymore.

 

[Jethi]

Ok, I figured it had something to do with the TORS. I have a brand new carb and throttle cable, no TORS for me. Ill just unplug it and tape the connector up too so it doesnt get crud or water in it. Will case bond work well to plug the hole? Ill see if I have some black RTV or something.

As far as the engine is going, I have the clutch basket all installed, and I just slid the cylinder onto the piston and studs, no binding or forcing, slid on like buttah. I went to get the bolts and they were rusty beyond belief, so Im soaking them in some PB Blaster while im at work, then im going to wire brush them clean. Any recommendations on how to torque down the bolts? I know Ken O has a piece of wrench cut off and welded to a socket, and well, I dont .

 

[Fast6hand]

^^its called a crows foot. And harbor freight sells a set of them for like 10 bucks. Just saying.

 

[Jethi]

Ohhh, I seeee. Can you guess where Im going after work?

 

[bansheedave]

You can also just nip the wires off the connector at the throttle lever.

 

[bansheedave]

even with a crows foot, you will need to do a little math to get the correct torque reading. Cause the crows foot or closed end extention, if they have those, will change the torque reading.

 

[Jethi]

Good thing I passed 4 Calculus classes

 

[Blaaster]

A simple tool to do the job, 2 minutes work!

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/crows-foot-tension-conversion.58800/

 

[Larry's Shee]

Good thing I passed 4 Calculus classes

pssh, simple math, algabra at most.

 

[Jethi]

Well I have the new fat bars on with the controls, now I just need to figure out how to make a plate to hold the key. And at the risk at sounding like an idiot, which way do I install these head studs? It seems pretty obvious, I think the hex head goes up, but I've never done head studs before, there are no instructions (maybe because its so obvious) and I dont want to screw up this far in. Better safe than sorry. Also should I use any kind of locktite on these? I have blue and green on hand.

 

[jus_me]

Yes the hex on top.. Don't feel dumb, It is always better to ask than assume..

 

[Jethi]

I figured that if I goofed it up i'd feel more dumb than just asking. Should I use any loctite? I've been looking but I cant find a definitive answer. Some say red loctite, some say dark blue loctite, some say none.

Anyone know any good ideas for a key relocation for fat bars? I think I'm going to just cut the original plastic key holder, keep just the two holes and a tiny bit around the key, and make a metal plate sorta like the original one, but it would have to come up to clear the bars. Should be a bit of fun fabrication.

 

[nick20555]

View attachment 23702 even with a crows foot, you will need to do a little math to get the correct torque reading. Cause the crows foot or closed end extention, if they have those, will change the torque reading.

Sorry to respond to such an old post but this equation bugged me. I'm sure this equation was posted with the right thing in mind but it is wrong if you use correct order of operations rules. Just to clarify, the torque extension equation needs to be: TW = TA * L / (A + L)
Without the parentheses you would add the L after multiplying and dividing first WHICH IS WRONG.

I know that image was pulled from google and its the first image that comes up in a search so it bugs me that the first thing that comes up is wrong. I wish there was a way to correct it. Sorry if this post is annoying to anyone but as an engineering student with a math minor, it is irritating.

 

[Jethi]

I noticed that and ended up using the tool online where you just punch in numbers, just to be safe.

 

[nick20555]

I noticed that and ended up using the tool online where you just punch in numbers, just to be safe.

Good to hear. Good thing we both passed 4 calculus classes lol

 

[Jethi]

Good to hear. Good thing we both passed 4 calculus classes lol

Haha yeah, I started to punch the numbers into that formula and PEMDAS came knocking at my door lol I've done enough formulas to figure that there's supposed to be parenthesis in there.

252 ft lbs is a big difference than 18 ft lbs

 

[nick20555]

Haha yeah, I started to punch the numbers into that formula and PEMDAS came knocking at my door lol I've done enough formulas to figure that there's supposed to be parenthesis in there.

252 ft lbs is a big difference than 18 ft lbs

Haha glad to see someone else can see the obvious. Too many times have I seen people just plug in the numbers and not think twice about the answer it spits out.

 

[bansheedave]

Thanks for making it sound like I'm an idiot for posting that link. I just posted it quickly and moved on. I didn't notice it was wrong. I've taken several classes on torque readings with different types of tools and different types of extensions. The fact that I posted a link that was wrong was my bad and glad you noticed it.

 

[Jethi]

Haha no worries, I didnt notice it when you posted, only when I started to plug and the numbers got funky, im not a genius.

As far as my build is going:
I ordered a shorty brake cable and new rear pads from Amazon. Cable should be here Thursday but those pads are going to be here next week. I'd like to convert to hydro eventually, but I think my front hydros are more of a priority.

Put the studs in the head with some locktite and snugged them down. Anyone heard of putting High temp RTV gasket maker on a copper head gasket? Vito's instructions call for it (High Temp Silicone Sealer), seems a bit odd to me, I figured you just shoot it with some copper gasket spray like KenO in his YT videos. So I'll probably buy both just to have them on hand depending on what kind of responses I get.

So I should have the engine fully assembled by the weekend, then I can really tear into those frame bearings.

Thanks for the continuous responses

 

[nick20555]

Thanks for making it sound like I'm an idiot for posting that link. I just posted it quickly and moved on. I didn't notice it was wrong. I've taken several classes on torque readings with different types of tools and different types of extensions. The fact that I posted a link that was wrong was my bad and glad you noticed it.

Sorry, I wasn't trying to say anything bad about you. I know that you just quickly pulled it off a google search to try and help this member and 90% of the people will still use it correctly even with the error. I'm blaming the error on whoever originally made that. It is a very small detail that is hard to see. Even with me being a very highly educated engineer/mathematician that sees more formulas daily than most people see in a lifetime, I almost missed it. My post above about the "obvious" was in response to it obviously not being 252 ft*lbs when he first tried it. I see many people at school answer with ridiculous numbers like that and not realizing there must have been a mistake somewhere.

Everyone on this forum knows that you are smart, respectable, and help a hell of a lot of people on here (including myself) so this one small blunder that isn't even your fault isn't gonna change peoples opinions on you. I'm not much help very often but I am very knowledgeable in math so I'm just trying to do my part to help as well.

No hard feelings, man. I was not trying to make anyone sound like an idiot. Just trying to help. You are probably 10x more knowledgeable about many things than me. My skills are mainly limited to the classroom rather than real life.