Anybody ever messed with one of these. I had a homeowner give me this truck prob 10 years ago. Only problem it ever had was it smoked when started, longer it sat the more it would smoke, which I think is the valve seals. But always ran good. I started having what I assume was carb problems and it finally got to where it would only start if I held the gas to the floor but I couldn't keep it running. I figures it prob a float stuck somewhere. Its been sitting for prob 5 years now, but the gas in my f150 on mountain roads is killing me so I was wanting to get it going again. I was thinking of tackling the job myself, but I've never seen such a mess of vacuum hoses.
1991 Mazda B2200 carb rebuild
- Thread starter tbrooks
- Start date
Lable the hoses and where they go. If you can't get a kit be very careful on disassembly.
Berryman's Carb Dip is great stuff. Parts can soak for days if need be, doesn't evap like spray can stuff.
Try to find a DIY online.
Berryman's Carb Dip is great stuff. Parts can soak for days if need be, doesn't evap like spray can stuff.
Try to find a DIY online.
Thanks guys. Actually it was normally white, but never had any problems with my anti-freeze or oil other than needing oil every once in a while. I've done quite a bit of reading and these things are notorious for leaky valve seals, which fit my symptoms because as soon as the engine runs a few minutes the seals warm up and it quits. It would be horrible for the first few minutes though especially on a cool morning. It was so bad I parked it away from the house and would start it and run back inside, it looked like a super-size fog machine on steroids! 5 minutes later no smoke. I was looking on Ebay last night and they have new weber 32/36 carbs for $250, which is prob the better route for me and I'll recoup that on gas money in a month lol
Running test for oil leaking into the combustion chamber.
Blue smoke.
If it smokes all the time when driving then the piston rings could be suspect.
If it only smokes when on over run and deceleration then suspect valve guide seals. The vacuum on over run draws oil past the valve guide seals but when coasting or accelerating oil is not drawn past the seals.
Smoking at idle is usually due to rings!
If it is black smoke it has excess fuel.
White smoke, coolant problems.
Blue smoke.
If it smokes all the time when driving then the piston rings could be suspect.
If it only smokes when on over run and deceleration then suspect valve guide seals. The vacuum on over run draws oil past the valve guide seals but when coasting or accelerating oil is not drawn past the seals.
Smoking at idle is usually due to rings!
If it is black smoke it has excess fuel.
White smoke, coolant problems.
Its white, but like I said only when you first start it for a few minutes, no other time, and coolant level was always fine, and it ran this way for 5+ years. I googled and found of bunch of people with pretty much the same problem and the answer seems to be the valve seal. I could start it in the morn and have a huge cloud of smoke, drive it all day, no smoke. Start it the next morn and same thing
White smoke on a cool morning is perfectly normal for most vehicles.
Some exhaust systems seem to attract more moisture than others and combined with condensation from humid air will produce a stack of white steam for many minutes until the engine warms up.
If there is no change in coolant level, no worries.
Some exhaust systems seem to attract more moisture than others and combined with condensation from humid air will produce a stack of white steam for many minutes until the engine warms up.
If there is no change in coolant level, no worries.
So I am finally getting around to working on this guy. I got the weber 32/36 carb kit. Here's what I am starting with:
An unbelievable amount of vacuum hoses! Supposedly I can delete them all except one for the timing advance and end up looking something like this
We'll see how it goes. Already got the old carb out and getting ready to change the valve seals, my only concern is how the computer will be affected after losing all that junk, so off to do more research, and make sure I get it done right
An unbelievable amount of vacuum hoses! Supposedly I can delete them all except one for the timing advance and end up looking something like this
We'll see how it goes. Already got the old carb out and getting ready to change the valve seals, my only concern is how the computer will be affected after losing all that junk, so off to do more research, and make sure I get it done right
Did a little work on this today. Man is it a pain, I was cussing the japanese all afternoon. 5 hours to get the radiator out and the power steering/idler pulley bracket disconnected. I have to tear the whole front of the motor down to change the valve stem seals. According to the book I have to remove the oil pan as well, and it says the head gasket will likely get damaged through the process. And when I went to remove the crank pulley today it spun the whole engine. So I checked and it was in gear, tried to push the clutch, and it wont budge
. Its a hydraulic clutch so I'm not sure what that means, master cylinder froze I guess. So now with all this work I'm not sure if I want to just totally tear down the motor, which I've never done before, or just haul it for scrap and sell the parts I've bought. I don't really wanna do either, and I can't afford to pay somebody. At this rate my savings in gas money will take along time to overcome what I put in to it. It sure would be nice to get it going, but I already have alot of things on my to do list, and I could buy a newer one for the money+time i'll have in, and its just a work truck.
. Its a hydraulic clutch so I'm not sure what that means, master cylinder froze I guess. So now with all this work I'm not sure if I want to just totally tear down the motor, which I've never done before, or just haul it for scrap and sell the parts I've bought. I don't really wanna do either, and I can't afford to pay somebody. At this rate my savings in gas money will take along time to overcome what I put in to it. It sure would be nice to get it going, but I already have alot of things on my to do list, and I could buy a newer one for the money+time i'll have in, and its just a work truck.
those b2200s are a pain in the ass but when you get em fixed up they seem to run forever. you think that vacuum system is a pain in the ass. you should work on an AMC Eagle.
if you don't have emissions testing once a year in your state, all that crap can go. just keep whatever you need for the motor to run. I did that in my 87 suburban. ran so much better. that's about all I can do to help.
when i first got my dodge ram1500.
sometimes would only start with gas held to floor.
INTERNET swore that it was the IAC valve.idle air control valve.
the truck even threw the code for it saying it was the iac..
GUESS what it was the friging negative battery terminal/cables the whole time/some did a terrible job put a aftermarket 1 on...it would run ruff for like 2minutes while holding gas to keep it going, then go away eventually.I even cleaned the iac and i could tell that someone had replaced it/new...
i know it dont help yur problem but wanted to share cuz you mention holding pedal to floor
sometimes would only start with gas held to floor.
INTERNET swore that it was the IAC valve.idle air control valve.
the truck even threw the code for it saying it was the iac..
GUESS what it was the friging negative battery terminal/cables the whole time/some did a terrible job put a aftermarket 1 on...it would run ruff for like 2minutes while holding gas to keep it going, then go away eventually.I even cleaned the iac and i could tell that someone had replaced it/new...
i know it dont help yur problem but wanted to share cuz you mention holding pedal to floor
My colorado had a problem burning oil on start up. Only happened if I drove it at highway speeds. Occasionally did it while just normal driving. Because of the stupid design, it took me hours to get the valve cover off. I had to clean a bunch of build up out of the pcv system. Turned out there was a tiny hole that plugs up in the valve cover. That tiny hold cause the intake to suck oil up and allow it to sit in the intake. When I started the truck, it would ingest all that oil and smoke like crazy. Took me months to figure it out. I thought I had bad valve seals.
i was looknig at this part for your truck not sure of yur engine.
but eff that the iac valve is $421.00....holy s_hit
my is i think $30 dollars lol
http://www.autozone.com/engine-mana...00/1991/4-cylinders-2-2l-2bl/931856_0_0_1277/
but eff that the iac valve is $421.00....holy s_hit
my is i think $30 dollars lol
http://www.autozone.com/engine-mana...00/1991/4-cylinders-2-2l-2bl/931856_0_0_1277/
I don't think it has one of those speedy. New carb was cheaper lol. And no emissions test here. Once a year a go to a shop down the road, hand him my registration, he looks out the window, and then goes and punches everything in the computer lol. All the vacuum stuff is goin and alot of the wiring too. I'm just not sure how far I'm gonna go on the motor. I hate to do as much as I have, and still have too, when its not much more work or money to put a piston kit in. I've never gone farther than a timing belt, valve cover and oil pan seals. A friend of mine told me I have to be careful if I take the head off cause it can warp? I guess it will be all worth it since it will basically be my daily, I just don't wanna do it lol
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