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I have the same problem on my (new to me) 2000 blaster. I think it's just a hopeless design of a brake. I'll be receiving a GSXR rear hydro from AWK next week.

From recent experience on my 2000 blaster. The TORS control unit must be removed by disconnecting at the wiring harness. This will prevent the CDI from being grounded by the TORS. The key switch, kill switch, and CDI blk/wht wires and black wires must be connected if you want to be able to...

After an electrical problem was solved, I got it started for the first time today. I used the 290 jet, center needle position, and 32:1 mix. After ten minutes of idle (a couple of 1/4 throttle revs), the cylinder was too hot to touch. Is this normal? When revved, it was slow to come back...

Out of curiosity, I checked my Clymer's manual. The engine stop and key both open the circuit (black and black/white wires) to allow the Blaster to run. I haven't researched this but it must remove a ground from the CDI to allow/force a spark across the gap of the spark plug. In other words...

I doubt a 3 or 4 jaw gear puller will work due to insufficient space to get behind the flywheel. I did a quick search and found a Blaster flywheel puller for less than $10 on ebay ($5.99 S/H).

Thanks in advance for any help. Bought my first blaster (2000) and it had a severe air leak at the base gasket. The piston skirt was gone but there was no damage to the cases. I replaced the crank bearings and seals myself. Ken bored (66.25) and honed the cylinder and I have it all back...

Never been there myself but there are trails at the Bonnet Carre Spillway.