I have a stock carb, with a 67.75mm bore, and an fmf exhaust. I was wondering what jets I should use. Currently, I have stock jets and when I try to rev the bike it hits a sort of rev limiter and does not get into higher RPMs and it does not idle.
this is a little update on my 03 yamaha blaster. I have finally been able to work on it a little, but there’s still a lot of problems. as stated before, i blew up the bike(basically the machine stayed wide open with no key in it while in neutral for about 25 seconds) so i replaced the crank...
Does anyone know if there is a different CDI I can use on a 2003 blaster? I recently found out that was the issue with my quad and found it is very hard to get an OEM part and if there was a different one I can look for that would work that would be greatly appreciated.
there is good compression on the bike, the head was remanufactured, and the head had some chinks taken out of it and those were melted on the piston head. The cylinder was fine tho, with no scratches or anything
I have a 2003 Yamaha blaster, and about 5 years ago I cracked the crankcase left by the shift lever. Now that I find myself with more time and money I have decided to try to fix it back up. I got the bike working and I got everything right (except I need to adjust the clutch because it keeps...
Currently i have tried everything, i changed the carb, cleaned both of them and tried them, i have taken off the crank case over to expose the clutch basket and stuff like that, and started looking at the gears, everything looked good except one of the woodruff keys had a chunk of it taken out...
I have a 2003 blaster, it was able to start last night again, but it just isn't right. there is little to no power, and even riding it around the yard it would not be able to make it up very small hills. It just seems when i hit the gas, the engine dies
So in my continuous struggle to get my blaster working again, i have run into yet another problem. I have fixed the start up problem, i ended up ruining the key switch. But now my problem is when it is running. when i start it up and give it gas, the engine bogs out, and if i give it full gas...
So I just unplug the key wires, and if that doesnt work then unplug the kill switch wires and that could allow it to start?
And i do have a new spark plug cap and coil.
So i have been rebuilding my Blaster, and i had it running, first kick and it started... until one day when i was running it, breaking it in i realized that i forgot the cap lock screw on the cap of the carb... So while in neutral it went into a full rev, i pulled the key and hit the kill...
i feel like the problem is the push assembly, i know that you are supposed to undo the lock nut, push the assembly forward with your finger and align it between the 2 lines on the crank case, and i do that, get good engagement on the clutch lever on the handlebars, yet when i hold it in and try...
Help
i just rebuilt my blaster clutch, and while the atv engages the clutch, it doesn’t fully disengage when i full let go of the clutch lever. any suggestions? the wheeler goes, but acts like the clutch is still heavily engaged.
thank you for your response, why would the fly wheel affect the gas going into the cylinder? and the reeds are brand new carbon fiber reeds, i do not see any cracks or chips in them
So i have a 2003 blaster, and decided to rebuild it, because i cracked the crank case. so we split the case, resealed it, then i got a new ported cylinder, new piston, new reeds, new carb, new head, and new spark plugs and it won’t start on its own. it will only start if you put gas directly...