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Thanks, I'll go ahead and do that in the morning and just re-torque it. If someone else thinks this is a bad idea I guess I'll redo the whole thing. It will be a while yet before it's totally finished and ride-able, still need to do a leakdown test, etc.

I'm finishing up my top end right now and realized that I didn't attach the clutch cable's retainer to one of the cylinder's base nuts. How big of a deal is it to loosen that nut, install the retainer, and re-torque it? Is it going to throw off the torque of those other three nuts?

Rings were ok but it looked like someone put the top one on upside down. It's all stock from what I know. It's had a good run so it's not too much of a disappointment. I had left the cylinder out and unoiled for several years because I really didn't know what I was doing, so there's a little...

I looked over the "piston diagnostic" post and didn't see a pic like this. These ridges are only on one side of my piston. I never had the thing seize up on me, this is just what I found in the process of rebuilding from the bottom up. I brought it to a shop and they said it would have to be...

I am in the middle of rebuilding due to this one small issue. Do you know what actually causes this (besides too much heat)? Is it poor shifting habits?

Sorry to resurrect this but did you ever determine why the actuator wasn't moving the friction plates? I am putting my clutch back together the same way, 7 fibers, 6 steels, no judder spring, all fibers are the same size. New pressure rods and ball bearing, bolts on pressure plate torqued...