Stator conversion to battery charge

Terrorfreak01

New Member
Jan 10, 2022
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0
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BELGIUM
Good day

From Belgium

I recently owned a 2004 blaster

Turn signals are compulsory in Europe

Now I would like to retrofit a battery that is also charged by the stator.
So that I can retrofit indicators and brake lights.

Has anyone ever done this here in the forum and could upload an objectively understandable manual, possibly with pictures?

With greetings
 
The search function is quite ok, but no one has explained the topic in a single comment. Eg with a diagram showing exactly which cables should be laid and how. Especially if you are not familiar with the English technical terms.
 
The search function is quite ok, but no one has explained the topic in a single comment. Eg with a diagram showing exactly which cables should be laid and how. Especially if you are not familiar with the English technical terms.

I recently did this mod and below is a link to another thread that I found helpful. If you search on "float the ground" you'll find more info on the topic. YouTube has plenty of videos as well

In its stock state w/o a battery, the blaster's stator puts out AC current. You need DC current to make your project work, this requires:

1. floating the ground https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/float-the-ground.64362/

2. swapping out the stock rectifier/regulator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JGRATRM/?tag=jyj356j5-20

3. installing battery

4. installing lights

5. wiring it all up

HMU if you have questions along the way
 
Ok and how do I proceed next from the battery ,
- on the frame ? and everything else via the plus wire to the battery? the original cable for the light remain or also renew? The brake light then also runs on a new cable?
Thanks again
 
Asking the real questions now lol. Surprising there hasn't been a blaster specific write up for this mod by now and hopefully others can benefit from our learning. If you're working with stock blaster wiring yourself, kindly let me know if any of the following isn't correct as I'm going off of memory.

With the red & black from the new R/R running directly to your battery, you will also have another + & - going from the battery back to your lighting & grounding circuits (the TT battery worked great in my case bc it fit perfectly in the battery tray partition and it came wired with a double female bullet connector for both +/- sides).

First, I hooked my wire from the - side of the battery to the nearest negative wire cluster in the harness.

The real meat of this mod lies in how the + from the battery gets wired up....but to get there, we must first lay out how the task of floating the ground gets carried out specifically on blaster wiring. As flippantly mentioned in mine and everyone else's posts, you just float the ground duuuuuuude. With that, you do the following:

1. Remove the lighting circuit ground from the stator plate. Solder a wire to this lighting coil terminal you just unattached and run it up through the harness to one of the yellow wires on the R/R. To get this wire through the OEM rubber case cover plug, I used a dental awl with a rasp handle to create a hole....worked perfect. You want to barely be able to get the wire through so the seal stays very tight and doesn't let contaminants in.

2. The other side of the lighting coil has a yellow wire with an orange tracer I believe. This leads up to the wire cluster for the switches on your bars. Cut this yellow/orange wire a couple inches before it gets to the cluster and attach directly to the other yellow on the R/R. You should now have 2 wires coming directly from the stator and connected to both yellows on the new R/R.

The couple inches of yellow/orange tail that was left is what I connected to the + side of my LED lightbar.

For the positive side of the battery, I connected to the green wire coming out of the bar switches. Yellow is low-beam & green is hi-beam. I don't have the stock light anymore and chose green so the hi-beam position activates my light. Activating the lighting circuit this way also activates the tail light.

A final note, I upgraded my lighting coil since I was in there and may be adding future LED pods and wip light. Which is to say, if you're gonna stick with the OEM lighting coil you'll need to ensure your total current draw will not exceed your charging ability.
 
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Hey I'm really grateful for your help and info.

I wanted to upgrade the light coil to 70 watts.

In Europe it is compulsory to have turn signals and brake lights including a horn.
Unfortunately, nothing has been modified on this blaster yet. For some reason, no brake light works either. does the blaster even have a brake light switch on the lever?

did you install a fuse box?

I would like to install the following

I paste the link here

https://www.ebay.de/itm/AGM-Akku-12...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=707-127634-2357-0

https://www.ebay.de/itm/22mm-Motorr...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=707-127634-2357-0
 
oh, is there a way to modify the ignition lock so that all electronic consumers switch off?

I hope I'm not annoying you with my questions.

What are the prices in US for tuning parts?
e.g. exhaust systems and arms?
 
Since they'll be used intermittently, you can probably make it work if you get rid of the OEM light and go with something LED that draws way less.

My year 2000 has just the OEM illuminated tail light and not sure if the 3rd gen blasters had brake switches or not. Maybe someone else knows on this forum and will chime in.

I put an in-line fuse between the battery and lighting circuit. I normally would use a relay for an LED system but I think I read the R/R I bought has an internal switch.
 
oh, is there a way to modify the ignition lock so that all electronic consumers switch off?

The engine ignition switch is its own simple open/closed circuit that doesn't include lighting. A stock blaster's lighting is controlled by the switch on the bars and works independently of the ignition circuit.
 
My blaster built in 2004 has a switch on the foot brake with a connection to the wiring harness, but this has no function.

I'm considering swapping the ignition lock for another one with multiple connections to disable all electronic consumers.

Conversion to LED lighting is planned anyway, including LED turn signals and LED brake lights.
 
It's just important to me that everything is done sensibly, not like in the backyard. Frame is powder coated. Only the tuning parts are really expensive in Europe for Yamaha quads.

That's why I asked what US exhaust systems and arms cost you.