I'm going to do a full bottom end rebuild on my 2001 Yamaha blaster. I'm replacing all transmission and counterbalance shaft bearing and crank. I was going to replace my stock crank for a Vito's 3mm crank. I'm going to reuse the top end because I put that together towards the beginning of this year with a wiseco polite and Ken o Connor machined head on it and a fresh hone. Of course I am replacing all gaskets and seals including crank seals too. Is there anything else you think I should do while I got the motor apart? And also is yamabond 4 good for the casing? I got lots of it.
About to start bottom end project on 2001 Yamaha blaster.
- Thread starter FasterBlaster03
- Start date
Yamabond 4 is good.
If you wanted to do the shift star mod.now would be the time. Basically you take the high points of the star down about 1mm or so. You can look it up on the forum.
Check clutch basket fingers for excessive groves. They can be filled down some for smoother clutch operation. If you need to file them down some try to file the same amount off each finger. New locking washer for clutch.
Check counter balancer and gear. Make sure rivets in gear are tight. They are known to go bad. New crank should come with new nut.(clutch side).
Bag and tag sections separate for easy assembly.exp case bolts and case dowels in one bag. Ect.
If you don't have a manual get one or look up all tourqe specs and clearances ahead of time. And you should be fine.
Others may have some things to add also.
Good luck.do you have a crank puller/pusher
And flywheel puller?
1. DO NOT reuse piston pin clips !!!
2. Follow the crank instructions!!
I doubled the clearance to .040 (rod to case) IIRC the crank slips into right case easily. You might consider talking to Ken about not using the spacer and recutting your head for the stroker.
Operating Room cleanliness !!
2. Follow the crank instructions!!
I doubled the clearance to .040 (rod to case) IIRC the crank slips into right case easily. You might consider talking to Ken about not using the spacer and recutting your head for the stroker.
Operating Room cleanliness !!
Ended up getting Vito's 3 mil stroker crank with full Vito's seal kit, hot rods tranny and counterbalancer bearings, head gasket and that's it.
You need new crank bearings
A full seal kit
Reed cage gaskets
Clutch cover gasket
Trans oil
Be careful not to loose the dowels for clutch cover 2
And the 2 in between the cases
Good luck and post some pics
Forgot to mention I got koyo crank bearings and I got paper gasket to cut my Reed gaskets. Already have a clutch gasket on standby
It's like an early ChristmasYessir the anticipation on getting the stuff is killing me right now
I got the cases back together and the shift drum locks up when I tighten the case bolts but when I loosen the case screws again the drum turns freely. Is this normal? The shift drum bearing has a washer behind it and that's all that been installed. Is there supposed to be a washer to go on the other side where the is no bearing? Please help thanks
I don't remember any washers being used.
Is the hole in the left case. Where the drum goes in left case clean. Nothing in the bottom of the hole?oil being used upon assembly?
Shift Star lined up with notches in case upon assembly so the Star does not contact the case? Does the main shaft turn freely when this happens?
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Yes tranny is free and I only had one washer that's on the clutch side casing and that behind the bearing. I'm weirded out over this because after I tighten case bolts the shift drum locks up but has slight movement but very hesitant. After I loosen the case bolts, the shift drum begins to rotate freely and shift through all of the gear and output moves quicker everytime I make it go up in gear. Then I tighten it again and it locks up again and does not want to shift. Forks are in right if not it wouldn't shift the way it does when casing screws are loose.
Make sure bearing is on all the way.
Blind hole is clean as mentioned above?
It doesn't take much. Small nick in case where bearing rides.
Ok thanks will split cases when I get home from work and check for debris in the blind hole. Also last time I split cases the bearing comes off with shift drum. Witch seems like a normally happens with blasters
Bearing stays on shift drum. Still don't remember a washer being used. Probably your problem?
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