1999 Yamaha blaster won’t start

I’ve got a 99 blaster that sat for awhile at my buddies house, before it sat it ran perfect and usually started up on the first couple kicks. I took it out to my dads lodge to start it up and we tried for hours to get it to start with no success. It has aftermarket Toomey exhaust pipes, 310 jets, tors delete kit, and everything else on it is stock. I took the carb apart and there was some green varnish in it. I cleaned it out with some carb cleaner and set everything back up according to stock specifications. Put the carb back and still no luck. Switched out the gas with fresh gas with a 32:1 premix ratio. Switched out the spark plug with a new one and gapped it. It has a good blue spark as well. So when it’s in first gear the kickstart is seizing up and the engine will not turn over. But when it’s in 2nd or higher it doesn’t seize up. Also when the clutch is pulled in first gear it does not engage and the bike won’t move. When we pull it with another quad and bump start it, it won’t turn over in first, but in 2nd and higher the engine will run and I can give it gas and it will go. The second I hit the clutch though it shuts off. And as soon as I lose momentum it cuts off completely. I figure if it’s not the carb fuel or so on it’s probably something related to the engine? I am not an expert at all could anyone offer some insight or have any ideas what could be going on with this thing?

Awk08 said:

Did you remove the pilot, needle and main jets and clean them out with carb cleaner, a small wire and compressed air ?
just cleaning the gunk out of the bowl area isn't the solution.
https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-clean-your-carbureutor.254/

have you checked the reeds ?

quit starting it in gear, start it in neutral, the clutch plates may be sticking from the sit, a good hard ride and fully warmed up usually breaks them free

Click to expand...

I removed the pilot, main jets, and needle as well as all other parts and let them sit in carb cleaner then scrubbed them and dried it all with air. Still nothing, it doesn’t even make any sounds when I kickstart it.

tristan prokop said:

I removed the pilot, main jets, and needle as well as all other parts and let them sit in carb cleaner then scrubbed them and dried it all with air. Still nothing, it doesn’t even make any sounds when I kickstart it.

Click to expand...

i also checked the reeds and they are not damaged.

Larry's Shee said:

Little confusing how you describe things.
First off, start it in neutral. A machine that sits for a long time the clutch plates tend to stick together.
Is the TORS disconnected? 3 wire plug under hood.
When cleaning carb you must be able to blow air through ALL the passages. Did you clean the main jet holder/emulsion tube?

Click to expand...

Sorry it’s confusing to explain over messaging what the problem is without seeing it. I originally tried to start it while it was in neutral. And it wouldn’t fire up no matter how much I tried. It does not have a tors box on top of the carburetor. The throttle slide and cable goes straight into the top of the carb and the idle screw is threaded directly into the carb. As for the 3 wire plug I am not sure about that, the wire harness is a complete mess. I haven’t had a chance to do anything with it. However it has always ran completely fine exactly how it is currently. Just after sitting for a while it will no longer start. As for the carb, i took off and cleaned every single part of it including the main jet holder.

Something else I noticed was the resistance when kicking the Kickstarter is low. By that I mean it seems easy to kick the Kickstarter and in the past I remember it having noticeably more resistance when kicking it. The garage I was storing it at was my friends. He has a bunch of younger brothers that live there. And it was there for about 6 months. I rode it about 3 months ago and it started up on the first few kicks and ran perfectly fine. I’m not sure if they tried to ride it or not but I’m pretty sure someone was messing with it. So, someone could have broke something on it trying to ride it and just didn’t tell me. I’m trying to figure out what I need to fix to get it running again. The price you pay for storing it on someone else’s property I guess.

Slydog said:

Sounds like you may want to do a compression test.
If compression is to low it's not going to want to start. 100psi is low but should start.
Under that is time for a topend rebuild.

Click to expand...

I was going to pick up a compression gauge once I get paid this Friday to test that. I figured it would be good to do. Would low compression cause it to stall out/ not stay running once it’s started up?

Slydog said:

Low compression will have poor performance.
Compression tester is a must have tool when owning 2t imo.
2t Leakdown testers are another great tool to have. Between the 2 you can test the general health of your engine. Great for diagnosis also..

Click to expand...

just an update, I was asking my friend more questions about whether they tried to run my quad while it was stored at their house and he told me they tried to start it and ride it several times but they couldn’t get it to start. so, they used starting fluid to get it to run and start. he told me that they used almost an entire can of starting fluid in the time that they were riding it. So, I did some research and found out that starting fluid on two stroke engines is extremely bad because, it eats away at the oil in the premixed gas and is not a lubricant. so over time the engine becomes unlubricated and starts to seize up and grind together. Which can lead to a blown engine. Knowing that I did a compression test and little surprise I have no compression and my pistons are toast. So I’m gonna have to take the top end apart and get a rebuild kit! Hopefully that fixes the problem will post again once I finally get it done!

Slydog said:

Do yourself a favor and bore your stock cylinder .it is Far superior in quality than these cheap kits that cost as much as a weisco piston. That should tell you something

Click to expand...

I’ve never worked on the top end before, I’ve got a blaster manual that I have taught my self everything from reading it, it has a guide on taking the top end apart. Would it be better to bore the cylinder and get the pistons to match it? Or to just buy a kit with the cylinder that comes with it? I found a couple kits that come with the cylinder, pistons, and all gaskets. For around 150 bucks. I think the kit I found actually is a weisco piston and cylinder head from eBay. I can look into boring my stock cylinder. Is it something you can do with every day tools? Or do you need to take it to a mechanic shop?

Slydog said:

Bring the cylinder to a machine shop. They will measure it. And tell you what it needs to be bored to. Ussualy next size up.
They can also order the piston and gaskets. It will take the guess work out of it for you. Since first time. Just follow your manual and tourqe everything correctly. These are very easy to work on .
Don't forget a new wristpin bearing.

Click to expand...

I appreciate the help brother! Got some parts ordered, everything should be here by next week, hopefully I can get it fixed up and running again!

Slydog said:

Getrdone.
Just watch the small pins in the piston ring lands.rings must line up with them. Or they will hold rings out.

Click to expand...

Finally did my compression test, and.. well I have 30 compression so something is definitely wrong LOL. Also attached a picture of my reeds, do these need replaced? The 4 plastic pieces in the middle are all in good shape no chips or cracks

Slydog said:

The reeds look ok from what i can see in the pic
As long as they seal flat and not chipped or cracked then you are ok.

Click to expand...

Got my top end taken apart! Attaching pictures of it right now! Also it looks like there is a little piece of metal jammed in between the crease in there? Not sure what that part is called you can see it in the pictures!

More p itures