Nice good i grinded them and gave them to my boy works at a vw dealer got a press n wat not ordered a wiesco basket i hooe that guy that u said has stuff calls backs i need little stupid stuff im deep into this project allready so im just dumpin money into at this point i love the thing ill never sell this im about 2100 into it including the quad and im single for the first time in a while im 29 i make good money.....full send bud
Disaster blaster fix
- Thread starter Joshbegle
- Start date
Oh and one more quick question what jet kit should i buy? I have fmf header stock muffler ill probably run air box lid because i ride in a river and on a sod/onion farm. Really dusty black dirt is nasty sh*t. Oh yea and what is your opinion on the 400ex rear shock banshee front rim and banshee axle people do i think that would be a wise move do you?
Hmm, if all the mods you have are the header then I’d start at a 270 main then work your way down. I do believe you will end up at 240/250 main but that’s my opinion. A lot has to do with mods and elevation.
Don’t waste your hard earned dollars on a jet kit, most kits come with no name jets and needles that are far to rich. Just purchased a 270,260,250,240 genuine main jets. Never buy replica jets because you never know what you will end up with. Jetsrus is an excellent site, if you get them from fleebay make sure to type in genuine blaster main jet followed by the size and that should provide you with better results.
As far as suspension, yes, yes and yes, I prefer the z/kfx400 rear shocks because I can get a bit newer of a shock for a cheaper price. Banshee front wheels are a definite upgrade because blaster wheels in general weigh a ton and rust because they are steel. Mine has DWT blue labels but there not cheap.
Another must do in my opinion is if you own an 02 down then absolutely get hydro brakes, or at least hydro rear brake if price is a concern because I’m use to the hydro’s, four of my blasters have had them, this blaster that I just picked up did not have them, well needless to say when I came up on a four way when doing a few test passes I couldn’t make the stop and went right through. Luckily no one was coming or that could have been bad. Right after that I got some hydros on there and after riding it again I can honestly say that I will never go back.
Don’t waste your hard earned dollars on a jet kit, most kits come with no name jets and needles that are far to rich. Just purchased a 270,260,250,240 genuine main jets. Never buy replica jets because you never know what you will end up with. Jetsrus is an excellent site, if you get them from fleebay make sure to type in genuine blaster main jet followed by the size and that should provide you with better results.
As far as suspension, yes, yes and yes, I prefer the z/kfx400 rear shocks because I can get a bit newer of a shock for a cheaper price. Banshee front wheels are a definite upgrade because blaster wheels in general weigh a ton and rust because they are steel. Mine has DWT blue labels but there not cheap.
Another must do in my opinion is if you own an 02 down then absolutely get hydro brakes, or at least hydro rear brake if price is a concern because I’m use to the hydro’s, four of my blasters have had them, this blaster that I just picked up did not have them, well needless to say when I came up on a four way when doing a few test passes I couldn’t make the stop and went right through. Luckily no one was coming or that could have been bad. Right after that I got some hydros on there and after riding it again I can honestly say that I will never go back.
Yes the brakes are going to be a head ache and most of my riding is wot with a full yeti 75 straped to the grab bar so brakes are going to be important can go breaking the yeti!!!
Yeah, you got to protect that yeti for sure. Figured I’d give you a heads up on the brakes because they really are horrible.
Definitely get a hydraulic setup. Just don't go for the rear hydro setup I opt'ed for. They SUUUUUUCKED.
Any '03-'06 Blaster front will work. I'd try to get a full front suspension swap if possible. That's the control arms, tie-rods, and hubs. A YFZ450 master cylinder and Galfer stainless brake lines work wonders. You can damn near stoppie with that setup.
@DKavcak Absolutely, I’ve been into Mitsubishi since I was ten years old. I’ve owned a good six of them and loved everyone of them. It’s a real shame Mitsubishi has abandoned us true fans.
I do agree with the galfer lines, most people don’t understand factory rubber lines need replacing every four to six years, will they work after that period of time, yes but your loosing a lot of brake line pressure do to expansion of the rubber lines.
The rear brakes are a tricky situation, the factory cable models are a complete no go, and the factory hydraulic setup isn’t to far ahead. I opted for a twin piston caliper from the front of a DR650SE because of two reasons, one is weight, when looking for a brake a good place to start is the weight of a bike you will be removing it from, for instance a dr650 weighs 350lbs wet, that is about the same weight as the blaster so it makes a perfect swap. There are exceptions to this rule and that’s with race bikes, a 250f race bike may only weigh 230 to 250 wet but the factory accounted for that weight moving at a much faster rate of speed quicker and then needing to use the brakes more often for race use therefore over done the braking system.
Most race bike front calipers that are twin piston up would be the calipers your going to want for the rear, I have tried the factory blaster hydro single piston rears and they really only are just capable of stopping the quad under normal operation much less an emergency situation. After trying this twin piston rear setup off of the DR I can honestly say that I will never look back.
I do agree with the galfer lines, most people don’t understand factory rubber lines need replacing every four to six years, will they work after that period of time, yes but your loosing a lot of brake line pressure do to expansion of the rubber lines.
The rear brakes are a tricky situation, the factory cable models are a complete no go, and the factory hydraulic setup isn’t to far ahead. I opted for a twin piston caliper from the front of a DR650SE because of two reasons, one is weight, when looking for a brake a good place to start is the weight of a bike you will be removing it from, for instance a dr650 weighs 350lbs wet, that is about the same weight as the blaster so it makes a perfect swap. There are exceptions to this rule and that’s with race bikes, a 250f race bike may only weigh 230 to 250 wet but the factory accounted for that weight moving at a much faster rate of speed quicker and then needing to use the brakes more often for race use therefore over done the braking system.
Most race bike front calipers that are twin piston up would be the calipers your going to want for the rear, I have tried the factory blaster hydro single piston rears and they really only are just capable of stopping the quad under normal operation much less an emergency situation. After trying this twin piston rear setup off of the DR I can honestly say that I will never look back.
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See i growing up was a nissan being 29 now all i wanted was 240sx 300zx ect so many options and parts and styles of car it was endless just to be left with this new gtr that is automatic or watever tf it is and grandmas in muranos ir maximas with alteza lights and 24in chrome rims and an ebay bodykit but i agree all the dsm cars were great my fav was the talon 1gen
Ok back to blasters so i had water in my stator cover quite alot after my one ride with it (i know i treated her filthy on out first date) i have t pulled it off yet becusd id have a puller yet and im not jamming a crowbar in there what symptoms would he caused by water in there?
Ok back to blasters so i had water in my stator cover quite alot after my one ride with it (i know i treated her filthy on out first date) i have t pulled it off yet becusd id have a puller yet and im not jamming a crowbar in there what symptoms would he caused by water in there?
Hold up, let's get off topic again.
So my first car was a Mitsubishi Diamante Wagon. They only imported a handful into the states, unfortunately it got ran over at a college party, so it was scrapped
I've been a Saab fan since I was very small because one of the people in the development I was part of had a sonic blue '01 Saab 9-3 Viggen. God...I need one.
Anyways, water where your stator is probably no bueno.
Water + Electronic Wiring = ZAAAAAAAAAAAAAP
However, I feel like those copper coils do have some water resistance. How much water are we talking?
Well enough water to think i was opening the clutch side of the engine thibking it was gear oilHold up, let's get off topic again.
So my first car was a Mitsubishi Diamante Wagon. They only imported a handful into the states, unfortunately it got ran over at a college party, so it was scrapped
I've been a Saab fan since I was very small because one of the people in the development I was part of had a sonic blue '01 Saab 9-3 Viggen. God...I need one.
Anyways, water where your stator is probably no bueno.
Water + Electronic Wiring = ZAAAAAAAAAAAAAP
However, I feel like those copper coils do have some water resistance. How much water are we talking?
Evedently your gasket is bad.or you didn't have one.With water in there it will run like shat or not at all.Dry it out good and clean it up.. It may still work?
Good idea to check it. I've had water in mine before.granted not as much as he is describing...two ways to test. Pop flywheel on. And see if it starts. Or test with meter
There shouldn't be rubber in a clutch...do you mean the fiber spacers?Um ok i got my clutch back but the rubber was out of it and idk the order of the rubber things i dont have the basket yet but i saw a video that said to not loose the order so what do i do?
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