Hey guys, been a few months, had my little girls blaster top end rebuilt by LED performance, everything to spec and went together beautifully, bore is at 68, New piston, pin, needle bearing, all Yamaha brand ....rebuilt carb with 310 main jet. My compression is now 125 psi. The bike will not start, I have spark, it kicks over nicely but I did notice the spark plug is dry, I think,..... fuel is pouring out of the overflow when I am not kickstarting it....Should I pull the carb again?
Rebuilt top end, no start
- Thread starter maddmaxx
- Start date
If fuel is coming out of overflow thefloat hight is wrong or debris is in needle valve.if the plug is dry i. Would pull the carb remove jets.spray carb cleaner thru all holes and jets.run small strand of wire thru holes.blowout with compressed air if available.you should be able to see light thru jets.sounds like pilot jet is plugged
If the float is too off, could that be the cause of the bike not getting enough gas to even start it?
If needle and seat are questionable.... just replace them. They wont break the bank! So you have to wait a few days to receive them.
Carb must be squeaky clean, I mean surgically clean. All holes clear and surfaces spotless. Floats set to 20 to 21.5mm, like the manual says.
Carb must be squeaky clean, I mean surgically clean. All holes clear and surfaces spotless. Floats set to 20 to 21.5mm, like the manual says.
I rebuilt the carb, cleaned everything out with cleaner and compressed air before doing the top end rebuild....I’ll break into it again and set float height although I don’t understand how this was not a problem before the top end blew... pulling the fly wheel tomorrow to make sure the key is OK and timing is not off....thx guys...Keep the advice coming
The top end blew?why?wrong jetting or air leak?was a leakdown test performed after top end assembly.if not i would highly recommend you do one .an. Air leak could fry your new top end fairly quick.if you're not familiar with doing one there is information on here about it.and fix flooding. Issue
Maybe apply some heat, (sparingly). Trick works for drum brakes and things of that nature. I personally never removed my flywheel. Just for that same reason!
Did you remove washer when you removed the nut.if not the tool cannot thread in all the way.and it can strip.how much pressure did you put on it?you tighten center bolt fairly thight, and tap end of center bolt .and it pops off.its a tapered shaft.why are you removing it?bad seal?no spark?
I have not tested anything and I think I am going to leave the fly wheel alone, I am going to check the coil instead, everything looks super clean on the flywheel side of things, no sealing issues or anything, I don’t know, a bit up in the air about everything right now.....I had zero spark issues before the piston melted so I really don’t think it is a flywheel/stator issue...
Take cap off coil wire and trim. 3/8. To 1/2 inch off .just make sure. Coil wire will be long enough before you cut. It should be unless it was previously cut. With .test cap with ohm meter.if flywheel is clean then no water got in to corrode everything
