polaris xplorer 300 2 stroke wont start

Ahh a bike with no reeds.theres your problem.just kidding.the only way to retard the timing would be if you moved the stator plate behind the flywheel.or somehow put the flywheel on wrong .w.with would be hard to do with the keyway in.dry plug still soinds like fuel or a good vacuum leak.unless you don't have enough compression.i would recheck compression .put hand over back side of carb.see what kind of suction you get.then about 80 percent to see if it starts.wd40 would probably be better than carb cleaner.it has lubricating properties.this is a 2stroke
There is almost no suction from the back of the carb. It has 105 compression tho, and it literally ran amazing before. It was only sitting for 1 week. This thing has sat for 3 months before and started up no problem.i dont know what happened. I did lose the woodruff key when i took the flywheel off, so i went and bought another one and put it on there. Maybe that has something to do with it. Could i have done something wrong or bought the wrong one? I just bought a generic key from a local store
 
Ahh a bike with no reeds.theres your problem.just kidding.the only way to retard the timing would be if you moved the stator plate behind the flywheel.or somehow put the flywheel on wrong .w.with would be hard to do with the keyway in.dry plug still soinds like fuel or a good vacuum leak.unless you don't have enough compression.i would recheck compression .put hand over back side of carb.see what kind of suction you get.then about 80 percent to see if it starts.wd40 would probably be better than carb cleaner.it has lubricating properties.this is a 2stroke
There is almost no suction from the back of the carb. It has 105 compression tho, and it literally ran amazing before. It was only sitting for 1 week. This thing has sat for 3 months before and started up no problem.i dont know what happened. I did lose the woodruff key when i took the flywheel off, so i went and bought another one and put it on there. Maybe that has something to do with it. Could i have done something wrong or bought the wrong one? I just bought a generic key from a local store
 
How well did this generic key fit in the crank?loose?tight ?stick up high enough?or to high.in which case flywheel on a tapered shaft is bad.right key is .alot of flywheels have spun on shafts for that reason.and not tourqeing correctly.you said it runs with a fuel supliment?hardly no vacuum with hand over carb?no vacuum no sucky fuel
 
Did you have the carb off? When you cleaned the carb you removed the jets and could see daylight through ALL of them? Did you check/set float height? Did you blow compressed air into ALL passages? Did you do a leak down test after crank seals?
Is the spark a nice fat blue color?

Now let the flaming begin. It’s called starting fluid, not running fluid. Give it 1/2 second shot see what happens. Or figure out a way to dribble a little bit of pre-mix in carb.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Slydog
How well did this generic key fit in the crank?loose?tight ?stick up high enough?or to high.in which case flywheel on a tapered shaft is bad.right key is .alot of flywheels have spun on shafts for that reason.and not tourqeing correctly.you said it runs with a fuel supliment?hardly no vacuum with hand over carb?no vacuum no sucky fuel
It was a little big so i grinding on it a bit until it fit good. Im not sure how high it is supposed to stick up, so I dont know if it is the right height or not. I dont know why there is no suction on the carb. I did clean everything in the carb and all the jets are clear and i set the float height parallel. I did not do a leak down test because replacing the crank seals made no difference so that was not the problem. I suppose i could do a leak down test if you guys think that it would help diagnose the problem. I thought air leaks made the engine rev super high though.
 
First off order correct key.you need to do a leakdown test especially when replacing seals.or doing a top end. Carb boot,ect..i think your vacuum is low because you either have an air leak or leaks.as of last post compression was still 105.you can't assume.you have to test.leakdown tester is a must if you have 2smokes.
 
First off order correct key.you need to do a leakdown test especially when replacing seals.or doing a top end. Carb boot,ect..i think your vacuum is low because you either have an air leak or leaks.as of last post compression was still 105.you can't assume.you have to test.leakdown tester is a must if you have 2smokes.

So I looked online and i cant find the woodruff key. Its not in the partzilla diagram. Can anybody inform me on what the part number is? Im also going to look into getting a leak tester.
 
Last edited:
Someone on here used to sell them.they were setup for blasters.or make one.there are topics here on it.not trying to give you a hard time but it's a very easy test , and a must have tool what year make and model is it.maybe we can help find a key
 
Someone on here used to sell them.they were setup for blasters.or make one.there are topics here on it.not trying to give you a hard time but it's a very easy test , and a must have tool what year make and model is it.maybe we can help find a key
Im gonna make a leak tester. The model is a polaris xplorer 1998. I cannot find the key for the life of me.
 
Found it babbitts polaris parts house.under crank and piston part num 3081543. $7.43 . .so you know it's out there if you want to shop around
 
That's the going price.worth every penny instead of trashing flywheel or crank.while tou wait on that build and do leakdown test.