What gear oil does a Yamaha blaster take?

He does any one know what gear oil to use on a 1995 Yamaha blaster?
I used to wonder this myself I run 10-30 motorcycle oil, nothing fancy. You can run better oil but I think that it's all the same just some are better quality. I used to run klotz because I had some extra from my dirt bike but when I ran out my dealer didn't sell it anymore so I was stuck with the regular 10-30 motorcycle oil. Use any good quality oil that is compatible with wet clutches
 
Your gearbox worries are:
1) bearings, mostly rolling element type, anything oily will work, seriously
2) gear teeth, some scuffing and high pressure, a gear or motor type oil 0w20 to 20w50 or ATF will do.
3) wet clutch, critical element. Need a gear type mineral or synthetic oil without friction modifiers.
ATF or gear oil or ideally a specialty motorcyle oil designed for 2-stroke gearboxes like Motul Transoil 10w30.

For wet clutches thinner is better, and synthetic has some issues.

Do NOT use 10w30 motor oil, especially if it says: "Energy Saving".
It will eventually burn your clutch out.

So, my suggestion, ATF, ATF type F, or ideally Motul Transoil 10w30.

Steve
 
Best states it fairly well. The weight of the oil probably matters on what the temperature ranges you are riding in but it has to be an oil designed for wet clutches.
 
There is no advantage to 40w oil for this application, unless your seals are leaking. Repair the seals.
The gearbox has no need of thick viscosity oil. It just soaks up HP and turns it into more heat.
The clutch hates thick oil too. ATF works great in overheated auto-trans.

Steve
 
I run Bell-Ray 80w90 gearsaver. DONT run 10w30 or any other oil from autozone/wal-mart ECT. Some oils contain friction modifiers. Our bikes have a wet clutch as explained on an earlier post. Friction modifiers will eat up our clutch, and do more harm then good. I think 'Best' has given some solid info.
 
I run Bell-Ray 80w90 gearsaver. DONT run 10w30 or any other oil from autozone/wal-mart ECT. Some oils contain friction modifiers. Our bikes have a wet clutch as explained on an earlier post. Friction modifiers will eat up our clutch, and do more harm then good. I think 'Best' has given some solid info.
No I said 10-30 or 40 motorcycle oil compatable with wet clutches, probably should've mentioned the friction modifiers too
 
is there a oil that will stop the gear oil from leaking out? but thanks for all the help i will drain the 10w30 in there.
 
I am not sure some wear on the bottom of it. it drips about 3 or 4 drips over night
 
Your gearbox worries are:
1) bearings, mostly rolling element type, anything oily will work, seriously
2) gear teeth, some scuffing and high pressure, a gear or motor type oil 0w20 to 20w50 or ATF will do.
3) wet clutch, critical element. Need a gear type mineral or synthetic oil without friction modifiers.
ATF or gear oil or ideally a specialty motorcyle oil designed for 2-stroke gearboxes like Motul Transoil 10w30.

For wet clutches thinner is better, and synthetic has some issues.

Do NOT use 10w30 motor oil, especially if it says: "Energy Saving".
It will eventually burn your clutch out.

So, my suggestion, ATF, ATF type F, or ideally Motul Transoil 10w30.

Steve
Can u get this anywhere do do you need to go to a cycle center or cycle shop to aquire?
 
I run Bell-Ray 80w90 gearsaver. DONT run 10w30 or any other oil from autozone/wal-mart ECT. Some oils contain friction modifiers. Our bikes have a wet clutch as explained on an earlier post. Friction modifiers will eat up our clutch, and do more harm then good. I think 'Best' has given some solid info.
I've noticed that when I use the belray 80/90 it takes forever to get a reading in the glass when warm what do u do about this? Run it n wait how long?