Sorry guys, I am unable to build any of these at this time, just way too busy at work.
Check back over the winter, I may build some then
Check back over the winter, I may build some then
2002 rear brake conversion
- Thread starter taillight
- Start date
see message directly above yours.............
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/2002-rear-brake-conversion.61276/page-3#post-781569
still not freed up enuf to build any at this time
see post 41 above: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/2002-rear-brake-conversion.61276/page-3#post-781569
still too busy at work to build these right now, maybe next month ?
sorry but no
I had done this originally, only 1 of the first 5 were able to complete a working setup using the supplied brackets. so I sold full kits or nothing at all.
No I was wondering about the bracket that holds the actually master cylinder on along with the rezzie that's all I need
still no end in sight to this over-workload daily
I haven't been to our shop in months except to grab construction tools.....double
i dont want to cut awk on his brakes, but since there are a few guys asking and he isnt building them right now, i do have a complete stock setup ill sell, the only issue would be if you need the actual axle or not, because shipping would be too expensive i think.
AWK08 has a wonderful brake setup, and I am glad that hehas plenty of work but sad he is working so hard he does not have time for his passion. Hopefully they will balance.
I don't wish to distract from the excellent design AWK has worked out, but there are other options.
This is the same setup I used, Banshee/Warrior/Raptor caliper and master cylinder:
There is no cable park brake on this setup but no reason it could not be used.
This setup is for floating rotor.
The drilled rotor was done on my drill press and seems to work well.
Banshee/Warrior/Raptor master cylinder on a once cable braked Blaster.
Wire cable-guard and cable eye removed as well as back half of mount.
Almost a pound of steel removed, still weighs over 2 lbs.
Lever straightened to gain length and leverage to more easily lock back wheels.
There are 2 types of rotors on Blaster, fixed and floating.
You need a fixed caliper on a floating rotor, and a floating caliper on a fixed rotor.
In the above picts you can see the floating caliper has been fixed with the home fabricated mounting plate.
This is a Ninja 250 caliper setup that would work for a fixed rotor
The problem with this is that you do need the complete package, axle (for the fixed disk mount) and the bearing carrier for its caliper mount. To convert a cable Blaster the setup I picture at top only needs the master cylinder, line and caliper.
Your best bet is to buy the parts you are needing new or used, such as on Ebay. The line is often best bought new. My systems above are all built using used parts bought quite cheap, less than $50.
Steve
I don't wish to distract from the excellent design AWK has worked out, but there are other options.
This is the same setup I used, Banshee/Warrior/Raptor caliper and master cylinder:
There is no cable park brake on this setup but no reason it could not be used.
This setup is for floating rotor.
The drilled rotor was done on my drill press and seems to work well.
Banshee/Warrior/Raptor master cylinder on a once cable braked Blaster.
Wire cable-guard and cable eye removed as well as back half of mount.
Almost a pound of steel removed, still weighs over 2 lbs.
Lever straightened to gain length and leverage to more easily lock back wheels.
There are 2 types of rotors on Blaster, fixed and floating.
You need a fixed caliper on a floating rotor, and a floating caliper on a fixed rotor.
In the above picts you can see the floating caliper has been fixed with the home fabricated mounting plate.
This is a Ninja 250 caliper setup that would work for a fixed rotor
The problem with this is that you do need the complete package, axle (for the fixed disk mount) and the bearing carrier for its caliper mount. To convert a cable Blaster the setup I picture at top only needs the master cylinder, line and caliper.
Your best bet is to buy the parts you are needing new or used, such as on Ebay. The line is often best bought new. My systems above are all built using used parts bought quite cheap, less than $50.
Steve
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AWK08 has a wonderful brake setup, and I am glad that hehas plenty of work but sad he is working so hard he does not have time for his passion. Hopefully they will balance.
I don't wish to distract from the excellent design AWK has worked out, but there are other options.
This is the same setup I used, Banshee/Warrior/Raptor caliper and master cylinder:
There is no cable park brake on this setup but no reason it could not be used.
This setup is for floating rotor.
The drilled rotor was done on my drill press and seems to work well.
Banshee/Warrior/Raptor master cylinder on a once cable braked Blaster.
Wire cable-guard and cable eye removed as well as back half of mount.
Almost a pound of steel removed, still weighs over 2 lbs.
Lever straightened to gain length and leverage to more easily lock back wheels.
There are 2 types of rotors on Blaster, fixed and floating.
You need a fixed caliper on a floating rotor, and a floating caliper on a fixed rotor.
In the above picts you can see the floating caliper has been fixed with the home fabricated mounting plate.
This is a Ninja 250 caliper setup that would work for a fixed rotor
The problem with this is that you do need the complete package, axle (for the fixed disk mount) and the bearing carrier for its caliper mount. To convert a cable Blaster the setup I picture at top only needs the master cylinder, line and caliper.
Your best bet is to buy the parts you are needing new or used, such as on Ebay. The line is often best bought new. My systems above are all built using used parts bought quite cheap, less than $50.
Steve
is there a reason you need the axle and rotor? i know you'll need the carrier, but why cant you have a floating caliper and rotor? the pads are going to squeeze the rotor equally no matter what as long as one of the parts is floating, what does both floating parts do? not arguing at all, its a legitimate question, cuz both floating doesnt seem like a problem to me, plus i have all the components.
i even have the parts to make awks kit, gixxer master cylinder and caliper, and a new wave rotor for a floating blaster rotor
You are right, good question, and I have practical experience.
The fixed rotor axle has an extra shoulder to lock the rotor in place. The Banshee axle is similar, but wider.
Everything drifts too far this way and that, and runs out of room.
It will work with calipers where the pads are positively retained, but you will have times where you will need several pumps on the brakes to get them to make contact.
Actually, I tried using a floating rotor with the 250 Ninja caliper pictured, and had the pads fall out.
Very disconcerting... Other than that major problem, it worked well!
Steve
that malkes sense about spitting the pads, i think its ok with the gixxer caliper awk uses because its got a piston on both sides of the caliper, thats probably why there is no issues, with a caliper with a piston on one side, and not positively mounted pads, the rotor moves over, allowing the pad to drop out of the hooks.
dude, I'm not building anything at this time, not full sets, not even master brackets (I heard you've been asking around)
I'm not even sure if I have any aluminum or supplies it's been so long since I got to go hang out down the shop.
work is still crazy and I'm stackin this paper while I can
I see whats wrong, you needed 3 likes, from 3 different people
I just liked your above comment, that gave you 3, hopefully either of your other 2 aren't from me also ?
get them 3 likes and you'll be able to PM
Hey Tankbuster, Awk was pretty open about what he used for parts and what he supplied in posts to this site.
His braking system has a bit more mechanical advantage than mine, eg, it takes less toe pressure to lock on the brakes. I'm in the same boat as AWK, too busy to sell parts, but I will share my design. I use a Yamaha rear caliper for a 2003+ Blaster, Banshee, Warrior etc, without the slider frame. This works great with the pre-2003 sliding disk. For the master cylinder I've used a variety of small bike and quad master cylinders, all seem adaptable. Have a look at the adapters I use, easy to fabricate.
The brake arm needs to be bent and a tab welded on and drilled for the M/C rod.
His braking system has a bit more mechanical advantage than mine, eg, it takes less toe pressure to lock on the brakes. I'm in the same boat as AWK, too busy to sell parts, but I will share my design. I use a Yamaha rear caliper for a 2003+ Blaster, Banshee, Warrior etc, without the slider frame. This works great with the pre-2003 sliding disk. For the master cylinder I've used a variety of small bike and quad master cylinders, all seem adaptable. Have a look at the adapters I use, easy to fabricate.
The brake arm needs to be bent and a tab welded on and drilled for the M/C rod.
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