Engine revs when bike sitting in neutral

Paulus

Paulus

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Jul 11, 2018
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Hello. I installed vforce reeds today and after running my quad for 20 min the engine wanted to keep revving both when I was in gear but off the throttle as well as when I was in neutral. In neutral it continued to rev very high so I shut off the bike. Now the bike won’t start again. Admittedly, I accidentally ripped the soft fabric gasket that came with the vforce, but still used it.
I’d be surprised if the problem im experiencing is from that but then again I actually know nothing about this kind of stuff.
Thanks for any help!
 
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High RPMS can be attributed to many things. But seeing as you just installed a pt and then ripped the gasket, my bet would be on an air leak at the reed cage, causing the RPM's to go high even at idle. Replace the gasket and do not over tighten the reed cage bolts! Over tightening will cause another air leak!
 
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jbuckster07 said:
High RPMS can be attributed to many things. But seeing as you just installed a pt and then ripped the gasket, my bet would be on an air leak at the reed cage, causing the RPM's to go high even at idle. Replace the gasket and do not over tighten the reed cage bolts! Over tightening will cause another air leak!
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Thank you much for the reply :)
Upon closer inspection, I found a MASSIVE tear in my intake manifold. Everything I read online attributed the revving issue to an air leak, and sure enough I found one. I just hope my quad starts after I install the new manifold on Tuesday.
I've had a blaster for about a week but I've put a 400ex shock on the back, removed the airbox lid, put reeds in, got a 14 tooth front sprocket in, have banshee front suspension on the way, am putting a banshee rear axle and brake hub on today, have a twist throttle ordered, etc... This website has been an incredible source of information!
 
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Paulus said:
Thank you much for the reply :)
Upon closer inspection, Ijust hope my quad starts after I install the new manifold on Tuesday.

You should do a leak down test after having intake apart. Hopefully you tighten bolts diagonally and incrementally to specified torque.

, have a twist throttle ordered, etc..

Be aware you'll probably need a different cable and TORS elimination also. (Hint) You may not like the twist on a quad.

. This website has been an incredible source of information!
Click to expand...


BTW
WELCOME !!!​
 
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Awk08 said:
you'll need to increase your main jet with plug chops and re-tune the airscrew for the new added air.
needle adjustments are rarely needed on a stock-ish engine and carb, except for a few pipes


start with the airscrew before the main jetting....

https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/

https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-plug-chop.53237/
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That's a great bit of advice, thank you!
I should mention that the quad came with a FMF pipe and I was told it got jetted as well.
I don't notice much of a difference at all after removing the airbox lid except for the low grunty sound.
 
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Paulus said:
I should mention that the quad came with a FMF pipe and I was told it got jetted as well.
Click to expand...

Don't trust anyone's info, even a few hundred feet elevation change or temp drop from when and where it was supposedly jetted could fry your shiz if it was jetted right on the lower edge of acceptable.
you should pull the main and check it yourself, then do the plug chops to confirm it's within range
typically FMF's require 270 - 310 mains, again.... depending on other mods (airbox lid on/off, filter type, etc.), current temps and elevation.
I'll also mention that whatever jet works now in summer, will fry it in 30/40 degree winter temps, you'll need to richen the airscrew and increase main jetting as temps drop.
 
Awk08 said:
Don't trust anyone's info, even a few hundred feet elevation change or temp drop from when and where it was supposedly jetted could fry your shiz if it was jetted right on the lower edge of acceptable.
you should pull the main and check it yourself, then do the plug chops to confirm it's within range
typically FMF's require 270 - 310 mains, again.... depending on other mods (airbox lid on/off, filter type, etc.), current temps and elevation.
I'll also mention that whatever jet works now in summer, will fry it in 30/40 degree winter temps, you'll need to richen the airscrew and increase main jetting as temps drop.
Click to expand...
Thanks I appreciate this info very much. I’ll have to be teaching myself how to do all Of this but I’ve managed everything else so far. Usually just takes a few taps of the ol’ hammer
 
Larry's Shee said:
OK, how did you get a half stick of hot melt glue in the intake?
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I waited nearly a week for a new intake manifold, got two that didn’t have that odd extension on top blocked off. So in my angst to once again ride Master Blaster I took what seemed to be the best solution within arms reach. It was a hot glue gun and I filled the hole with hot glue. I rode it as soon as the glue set, I really wanted to test out the new front and rear suspension I had put on while waiting. I was also blacked out the whole time
 
I just want to mention that I had my stock reeds in when the hot glue went through. The reeds caught most of it, I changed the feeds to some vforce4’s i already had. Started right up. If you put a hot glue stick in gas it breaks down so I figure it’ll work itself out in a tank or two. Running like a champ right from the reed replacement.
 
Larry's Shee said:
I've used a small pvc plumbing cap and hose clamp to block those off on banshees.
Click to expand...
That’s a good idea. Currently I have a wine-cork shaped rubber stopper wedged in real tight, I’m going to add some high temp epoxie to it today to make sure it won’t slip out
 
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