Blaster won't run

Sam Romero

New Member
Feb 22, 2018
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I got a frankenblaster. I'm not sure if the year. It appears to have the tors system disabled. So my problem is when I bought it the engine had low compression. So I ordered a new jug new piston rings and bearing I also noticed it had bad reeds so I replaced them as well and I did a carb rebuild well after that I got it to start and it will Rev just a little maybe 1/3 then it dies. I went back to the carb and put the original pilot and main jet back in because it had a much larger than factory jet. I'm at a loss I cannot figure out what is making it not Rev and run correctly. On a side note I have also fiddled with the needle. when I rebuilt it I set it to the stock center position I've since leaned it and it gets better results. I have no air box cover never did. Got dg aftermarket exhaust. And tasanari 4 reeds. The jet I think is labeled 340. That's the best info I can give and advice would be appreciated.
 
Check that a mouse didn't build a house in the exhaust. New plug? Float level set correctly?

Hope you didn't buy one of those 99 cent junk cylinders :(:(
 
it is a case of i got cheap top end parts that don't work.
check compression should be at least 120psi..
If you can't do that all the typing in the world won't save you;)
 
it is a case of i got cheap top end parts that don't work.
check compression should be at least 120psi..
If you can't do that all the typing in the world won't save you;)
Yeah bought a oem jug and head. Came from Yamaha. Checked the compression and did a leak down test. So if your best statement is cheap upper then correct all the typing in the world from you will not help
Thanks anyway!
 
Check that a mouse didn't build a house in the exhaust. New plug? Float level set correctly?

Hope you didn't buy one of those 99 cent junk cylinders :(:(
It's a oem head from yamaha. So that's not the problem. Did a compression and leak down test and ita all good there has spark. It's a carb issue I think.
 
Don't have to be so pissy about it. All you had to say was ( once) "Genuine Yamaha parts"
Thing is that when someone says new cylinder, we automatically think knockoff, because there's no logical reason to replace the head. And a new cylinder is about $550 from yammy.

You could state what the compression test was, and how long the leak down test held for.

Maybe list ALL your mods and what Jets AND carb settings are.

And to be a GRAMMAR NAZI, try breaking it up into paragraphs. Makes it far easier to read.
 
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Sorry the logical reason I chose to replace the head with the was that it was stripped beyond belief. I hope that is an exceptable reason to replace a head. I did the rebuild then new jug, new head, new piston, rings, bearing, wrist pin, gaskets, you know complete rebuild.
In my original post I provided all the information I have available about the machine.
I tested the compression when I first got it. It ran but not well. Also the broken ring clunking in the port was getting annoying for me. I guess some people can deal with it, but I'm not one of them.
As for the leak down test, well it's a two stroke engine to the best of my knowledge so that's what it's done.
I will admit this is the first blaster I've worked on but ice owned a yz or 5 and did ally own repairs and mods.
The blaster however with its redundant safety features to the carb and electric system don't make matters easy to be honest. Also as a bonus this machine has more butchering to the wires and such as I've ever seen. A true blasterenstein as I stated in my intro.
Now to repeat all the information I have available:
Year: n/a
Top end complete oem rebuild. The only Chinese it got may have came from soy sauce I had with my lunch
It has the moto tasari if that's how it is sick spelled the phone don't like that word. It is the version 4 of the reeds and intake.
It has a dg pipe
The compression tested 122
I used makuni parts to rebuild the carb to the factory specs. I will say I had to go back in and change the main jet. The only thing I can say about that jet is it came with the machine and it is stamped 340
I also had to change the needle setting back to one up over middle like it was when I took it apart.
Now if your still with me after I did all that I can get it to start no choke 1.5 kicks. It sounds normal the exhaust makes it out the end of the pipe no leaks. However when I touch the throttle it dies. If I feather it I can get it to slowly idle up and hold but not more than say 25%.
The fuel is mix 32:1 I eliminated the oil injection nonsense. I used a kit came from bike bandit? he may be Chinese but I'm not sure.
So I'm down to
Has spark
Has enough fuel to mostly run
Has compression
But even with all that no power.
P.s. no air cleaner box cover and b8es plug
I'm not sure what else I can say for mods that are relevant. I mean I put led lights on it. And got some sweet tires lol
 
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I would try adjusting your air fuel ratio screw on your carb. If it smokes alot it sounds as tho your blaster is running rich. My blaster had a problem where it would bog and loose power on power band. Just fiddle around with your air fuel and idle until it sounds and runs right.
 
Fiddling around with the air screw is not a prescribed fix.

The air screw is used to set the AFR at idle and provide good transition onto the needle.

Idle adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain
when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of
unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
if the air screw ends up being more than 2 1/2 turns out the pilot is too big.
if the air screw is less than 1/2 a turn out the pilot is too small
 
Sounds electrical if all above is true:)
check the year of electrical parts for the THROTTLE.OVER. RIDE. SYSTEM.
88-02 had 4 wire stators 03-06 had 5 wire stators.
88-02 you just unplug the brain under front nose
03-06 you need to splice wires.
could be your stator/flywheel magnets/ timing key could have broke?
alot of people buy 30 dollar stators that dont work try a know working oem stator or test it with the values in the manual.
free manual.http://www.blasterforum.com/attachm...s200r_supplementary_service_manual-pdf.12465/
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-find-out-what-year-yours-is.2418/
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/03-06-tors-removal-diy.41973/
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-your-tors-88-02-models.655/
 
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