2003 blaster wont start

pawnman

Member
Mar 5, 2018
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2003 blaster started running badly, fouling plugs quickly. i checked compression 120lb in 3 kicks 150 in 5 kicks.

i removed the stator to check for leaks, however i did find leaks in my reed block at the top, fixed it.

questions...there is tiny gaps at the top of reeds and reed block, i noticed they were flat until i tightened them was causing them to flair open. are they supposed to be perfectly flat against the reed block?

#2 i did a leak test, when i found the reed block leaking, i did spray down the stator side seal and did not see any bubbles, i had no leaks at exhaust side, never found any on engine case,
however, i have not check wet side of engine.

the leak test did loose 1lb from 7lb after a few minutes, however i dont know where its leaking...i assume now it has to be the oil side. since i have not tested it.

after leak down test, reinstalling coil and reinstalling carb and pipe. zero signs of life now, spark plug has spark, headlights brighten when kicked over. spark plug had minimal signs of wetness after pulled in 50-60 kicks.

removed tors. wired together. brake tors, i only removed wire to it by unplugging each end.
gas is fresh 32-1
 
i would like to add....when it was running badly, had zero power and smoked white smoke which stank when under heavy throttle

it was running before i removed stator and pulled carb.

is there a built in gas filter? inside tank?
 
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it is the clutch side seal if it is white and smells like burning gear oil.
gear oil is not meant to burn so it will run like crap.
although it should still start......
could be your reeds or a clogged pilot jet in carb to help keep adding issues with rough running -starting.:D
stuff keeps adding up 1 by 1 equals poor starting crappy performance;)
 
Lmbo, we left the exhaust plug in .....removed it, started 1st kick, still no power, no top end. I guess it's back to leak test and assume it has to be the wet side crank bearing that leaks.
 
i had just re installed them to help stop the flairing up of reed when tightened, so currently yes
 
Ok. That was why I asked. Without the stops, the reed ends do flair open badly and can cause the problems you had described.
 
ok.....did a leak down test....zero loss.....so back to the puzzle i went......finally decided it was my tors job or carb or stator.........?? which one?? it was the stator....it would not ohm....i had a spare and installed it...and perfection.!! the darn stator all along.... it would idle perfect and rev well... but smoke and powerless under a load. seemed like a oil side leak on crank....had no idea a stator could cause my issues.
 
oh....the leaking in my first post was the caused by exhaust, i had trouble getting it to seal well. i am pretty sure its because i did not remove round gasket on exhaust head first.
 
False alarm ....idles, starts first kick, everytime. Won't rev past 3/4 throttle bogs to death, why? I have it has the stock 230 jet stock carburetor stock breather lid
Oil pump gone, mix 32:1.
Nkg, new.
Used donor stator was 4 wire.Factory stator had 5 wires one green wire was left unplugged I do not know what that goes to. Headlight nearly goes off at idle, bright when revved
 
Still wouldn't rev over half throttle
But I went ahead and installed the FMF fatty pipe and silencer used Blaster i picked it picked up . then pulled its carb off removed at 320 jet installed on mine it started it up it runs perfect I'm not sure what happened I know the jet that was in it was spotless didn't do anything else but swap the Jet and pipe and put it back in and it screams I don't understand it
 
Still wouldn't rev over half throttle
But I went ahead and installed the FMF fatty pipe and silencer used Blaster i picked it picked up . then pulled its carb off removed at 320 jet installed on mine it started it up it runs perfect I'm not sure what happened I know the jet that was in it was spotless didn't do anything else but swap the Jet and pipe and put it back in and it screams I don't understand it



If you went from 230 to 320 it makes sense. Depending on elevation the fmf will use a 270 to 310 main from what I recall
 
False alarm ....idles, starts first kick, everytime. Won't rev past 3/4 throttle bogs to death, why? I have it has the stock 230 jet stock carburetor stock breather lid
Oil pump gone, mix 32:1.
Nkg, new.
Used donor stator was 4 wire.Factory stator had 5 wires one green wire was left unplugged I do not know what that goes to. Headlight nearly goes off at idle, bright when revved
Hey man I was having a similar problem with mine and it turned out to be a stripped main jet thread where it screws into. The needle sits in there above that, but since the threads were stripped it wouldnt allow the jet to sit properly and it was leaking too much fuel when demanded on top end causing it to flood out. Take the carb off and make sure the main jet screws in nice and the threads aren’t stripped. Hope this points you in a direction to fixing it.