Okay guys so I bought a blaster a few months ago. Don't know what year it is but it is the earlier generation. Got it off a guy down the road. He ride it for many years and never had any issues. Well here we're are a few months later and I blew it up. So I am getting it bored and a new wiseco piston. It already has boysen reeds. Has the stock carb with the oil injection removed but I believe it still has tors. So my question is if I get an oko 30mm carb would that be a waste on a stock motor. Should I get a pipe v force reeds and port it first. Also has anyone use a Vito's high compression head gasket. Are they any good. I am on a budget sadly so I was just wondering if a carb alone would make any difference. In the future I plan to totally build the motor but the carb and head gasket is what I'll do for now
Blaster build/carb
- Thread starter bigcasey123
- Start date
You will be disappointed in bang for the buck if you do carb first.
Modify stator plate to advance timing. Reeds.
Do a pipe and air filter first. Then head mod. Either DIY porting or shop done.
No opinion on head gasket.
I have full porting, reeds, Fat Bastard pipe and still use stock carb.
Modify stator plate to advance timing. Reeds.
Do a pipe and air filter first. Then head mod. Either DIY porting or shop done.
No opinion on head gasket.
I have full porting, reeds, Fat Bastard pipe and still use stock carb.
Okay thanks. I just wasn't sure in the order because everything should work cohesively. But if the stock carb isn't too bad I'll get a pipe some porting and maybe some head work. How much should I advance the timing. I've heard most ppl say around 4-5 degrees
I've told many people this....keep the stock mikuni carb. They are reliable and easy to tune. I still one one to this day.
But does the stock carb ever become the bottleneck of the motor? If you're getting more flow with a vforce reed cage and a port job and better high rpm performance with a pipe wouldn't the carb limit the power? Maybe not but I've heard that it's too small and restrictive for a built motor. I could be way off the mark but that was my thought. And is it beneficial to upgrade the carb (besides jets) in anyway like boring out the carb?
why does a yz125cc have 39hp stock
and a blaster 200cc have 17hp stock?
not the carb!
it is the engines state of tune
get engine work first and then worrying about a device that regulates fuel and air
and a blaster 200cc have 17hp stock?
not the carb!
it is the engines state of tune
get engine work first and then worrying about a device that regulates fuel and air
My motor is ported, head modded, vf4's, Cfm airbox, I've ran an F7 and DMC pipe with the stock carb with no headaches.
It's all a matter of preference. I tried a 34mm PJ, just never got it dialed in right. Went back to the stock carb...just because it's really easy to tune, and honestly, my motor doesn't need anymore than it offers.
It's all a matter of preference. I tried a 34mm PJ, just never got it dialed in right. Went back to the stock carb...just because it's really easy to tune, and honestly, my motor doesn't need anymore than it offers.
I like the fact that you ask questions without being argumentative.
After you do all mods mentioned you should be at about 30 HP, ,stock is 17. IF at that point you think you need more,then get a bigger carb.
If you modify the stock stator plate it costs you zero and allows about 4* advance, which is Max suggested for normal use.
Use a flywheel puller ONLY to remove flywheel. $10-15
DIY home porting. Free, or $25+ to get grinder. Great How To video by Ken O'CONNOR linked in engine section.
After you do all mods mentioned you should be at about 30 HP, ,stock is 17. IF at that point you think you need more,then get a bigger carb.
If you modify the stock stator plate it costs you zero and allows about 4* advance, which is Max suggested for normal use.
Use a flywheel puller ONLY to remove flywheel. $10-15
DIY home porting. Free, or $25+ to get grinder. Great How To video by Ken O'CONNOR linked in engine section.
