Lost for words on this thing

Oct 30, 2017
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300 main jet, clip in the middle position, stock pilot, completely cleaned out carb, float height is normal, air screw 1 and a half turns out, and it' not responsive right off idle mid and high range are great though. Also getting a hiccup/fart from under the seat. I can hear/feel it when I'm cruising in first at about 1/8 throttle getting ready to hammer it. Never did this before. Did the carb test and sprayed carb cleaner all around the carb, carb boot, intake side, no change in idle, no intake leaks whatsoever. Do tranny leaks and smokes as any two stroke should. Anyone have any suggestions??? KOR suggested a 300-310 main because right now it's at around 30-40 degreees by me in Illinois. Also ran it with the snorkel on AND OFF the bike. Please help!! I know I'm close to getting her running right it' just has to be a rich or lean issue
 
mid and high range are great though. <<< tells you you're needle/clip and main jet are good.
(plug chop to confirm main jet)



it' not responsive right off idle <<<<< stop fooling with the main jet to correct a stumble on the bottom end (airscrew/pilot)
and check your reeds, hiccups in airbox are reeds or flywheel keyway/timing

adjust airscrew/pilot jet < must be done correctly, not just set it and forget it, this isn't a Ron Popiel Ronco product :)
follow this exactly ...............
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/
 
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mid and high range are great though. <<< tells you you're needle/clip and main jet are good.
(plug chop to confirm main jet)



it' not responsive right off idle <<<<< stop fooling with the main jet to correct a stumble on the bottom end (airscrew/pilot)
and check your reeds, hiccups in airbox are reeds or flywheel keyway/timing

adjust airscrew/pilot jet < must be done correctly, not just set it and forget it, this isn't a Ron Popiel Ronco product :)
follow this exactly ...............
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/
Flywheel key is fine. Ran like a boss prior to all this work with no issues. I think it could be my reeds. When I pulled the Reed cage out I had to flip one of the Reeds to cover a tiny Gap in the cage and prior to flipping the reeds I Never Had It hiccup issue
 
mid and high range are great though. <<< tells you you're needle/clip and main jet are good.
(plug chop to confirm main jet)



it' not responsive right off idle <<<<< stop fooling with the main jet to correct a stumble on the bottom end (airscrew/pilot)
and check your reeds, hiccups in airbox are reeds or flywheel keyway/timing

adjust airscrew/pilot jet < must be done correctly, not just set it and forget it, this isn't a Ron Popiel Ronco product :)
follow this exactly ...............
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/
I have read that post before on the air screw guide that you just posted but the thing is from what FMF tells me and from what I've read online everywhere else needle clip position usually doesn't have to leave the third position and you hardly ever have to change the Pilot size from a 32.5 so I feel like it's an air screw issue or reed issue
 
adjust the airscrew for highest idle, then small turns till it revs cleanly past 1/2 throttle, then more small adjustments as needed while riding, you'll get it. 1-1/2 turns out is just a starting point to get it running, it must be tuned for each machine, and maybe daily for temp and altitude changes.
it's not set-it-n-forget-it :)
 
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mid and high range are great though. <<< tells you you're needle/clip and main jet are good.
(plug chop to confirm main jet)



it' not responsive right off idle <<<<< stop fooling with the main jet to correct a stumble on the bottom end (airscrew/pilot)
and check your reeds, hiccups in airbox are reeds or flywheel keyway/timing

adjust airscrew/pilot jet < must be done correctly, not just set it and forget it, this isn't a Ron Popiel Ronco product :)
follow this exactly ...............
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/
Also my adjustment for the aircrew is between 1/2 to 2.5 turns out for highest idle setting so I know I'm golden. The issue is whem I go to adjust the idle screw on the tors block it'll start idling up and then die, adjust down and it isn' enough idle and dies.
adjust the airscrew for highest idle, then small turns till it revs cleanly past 1/2 throttle, then more small adjustments as needed while riding, you'll get it. 1-1/2 turns out is just a starting point to get it running, it must be tuned for each machine, and maybe daily for temp and altitude changes.
it's not set-it-n-forget-it :)
Right on brother. Another thing I noticed which is imagine isn' normal, I pulled the plug out to look at its color, and the gap was reduced! How in the world does it go from stock gap to reduced!!
 
This one was before the change in jetting
1511456184612970557626.jpg

This one is the one I'm talking about
15114562775351305847846.jpg
 
if the idle screw is acting up, it's time for a complete TORS delete with new cap, cable and add idle screw to carb.

and that plug gap was a problem, possibly time to start all over again if you were adjusting jetting to suit that non plug gap :(
 
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I don' get it, this dude is running practically the same exact setup as me and is getting it done so what' the difference is with mine
if the idle screw is acting up, it's time for a complete TORS delete with new cap, cable and add idle screw to carb.

and that plug gap was a problem, possibly time to start all over again if you were adjusting jetting to suit that non plug gap :(
That's the thing. The plug gap wasn' like that when I put it in there. It was the factory .032 gap. When I was adjusting my jetting and everything I pulled the plug out to see if it was oil soaked or not and seen that. My buddy said that means it was predet. Idk if that' true or not. But with the gap like that would that cause the hiccup I was getting? Also I was hearing a very noticeable ticking noise the whole time
 
Idk but I'm about ready to sell this thing. I' highly frustrated and fed up with it. I should'e just left the oil injection system alone and ride th3 thing the way it was. I've cleaned the car about 500 times, checked the float height 40 times, used hets ranging from 270-300 And it'l only run semi right wuth a 300 in it at the temps we have here right now, the reeds are fine with no gaps, I have no air leaks, the flywheel key is fine. I give up :mad::mad::mad:
 
Is the tors brick the issue? Is my needle clip not suppose to be in the 3rd position?? There's no need for a bigger pilot a 32.5 should be fine 99% of the time.
 
32.5 pilot on every of the many I have tuned, from bone stock to ported to 5 different pipes I've had, + an FMF of my buddies.

Needle clip on middle on all those setups from 90 degrees down to in the 30's.
your results may vary

I've not seen you mention what pipe you have ?.

I once chased similar Gremlins as you are. It was a 3 way ground connection inside the harness where it crosses to the front under the fuel tank.
So don't count out an electrical issue disguising itself as a jetting issue.
Check grounds, all other connections, the plug boot connection to the plug, and the ohm testing that can be done in the service manual and threads in the electrical section.
You'll be a pro by the time you're done :)
 
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32.5 pilot on every of the many I have tuned, from bone stock to ported to 5 different pipes I've had, + an FMF of my buddies.

Needle clip on middle on all those setups from 90 degrees down to in the 20's.

I've not seen you mention what pipe you have ?.

I once chased similar Gremlins as you are. It was a 3 way ground connection inside the harness where it crosses to the front under the fuel tank.
So don't count out an electrical issue disguising itself as a jetting issue.
Check grounds, all other connections, the plug boot connection to the plug, and the ohm testing that can be done in the service manual and threads in the electrical section.
You'll be a pro by the time you're done :)
It' an FMF fatty and powercore 2 silencer
 
So a little update: I do believe I got it taken care of. Threw in a 320 main jet, pulled the snorkel off the airbox, adjusted the air screw 1.5 turns and it ran good but the throttle hung a tiny tiny bit. So I adjusted the idle screw down some on the tors brick and the idle doesn' really hang anymore. Maybe the SLIGHTEST bit of hang, but barely even. Then went back to the air screw and gave her another 1/8 turn and she runs great. No hesitation off the rev, no hesitation in the low end when I hammer the throttle real quick, no hesitation anywhere. I actually took her to the field behind my house and gave her one hell of a holeshot (still haven't lost my touch after all these years :p) and she went through all the gears like a damn boss! And to add in, I threw a brand new plug in her and she smokes like a typical 2 stroke. If anyone has anything to chime in or suggestions, let me know :D I appreciate everyone's help who has chimed in over the past few threads I've posted about this headache. Y'll rock! I wish we could all meet one day and just take out our blasters together lol :cool:
 
good job !
don't be afraid to play with that airscrew as needed for temp changes, a little 1/8 turn in or out can make all the difference.
grip it n rip it :)
 
no need to keep looking at the plug color unless it was a new plug after a 1 wide open throttle run (plug chop)
as you're seeing that plug now, you may have lugged the engine at some point, putted around barely staying running, etc. and all jetting circuts have added color to it, it doesn't tell you much, unless you see it's pure white or specs of aluminum on it from detonation.
 
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no need to keep looking at the plug color unless it was a new plug after a 1 wide open throttle run (plug chop)
as you're seeing that plug now, you may have lugged the engine at some point, putted around barely staying running, etc. and all jetting circuts have added color to it, it doesn't tell you much, unless you see it's pure white or specs of aluminum on it from detonation.
No pure white and no specs of aluminum on it. And it was a brand new plug as the plug i pulled out in the pics had a bad gap. I didn' do a plug chop unfortunately, and I know I shouldn' go by the sound and feel method but I can tell clear as day that it' running as it should. There is no hesitation throughout any of the gears or rpm range, there's no bogging AT ALL, powerband is nice and strong, throttle response is SUPER touchy and snappy (wants to lift the wheels clean off the ground), and still starts on the first kick. Idle is nice and smooth and not too low, air screw is 1-3/4 turns out, no air leaks or erratic idle, the revs still kinda hang a bit but BARELY at all (should be able to clear it up with fine adjusting) no fluid leaks or white smoke. I should be good to go! Now if only my headlight bulb wasn' blown so I can see at night! :mad::mad::mad:
 
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