Why did my top end go?

Upbasher said:
Heres the tester I made it works awesome.
Click to expand...

atta boy ! :)


Upbasher said:
First thing I did haha. Anyways I found a leak on top of the carb/reed boot. Just like you said. How do I go about fixing this can I un warp the boot or do I need a new one
Click to expand...


hi-temp copper permatex RTV from any auto parts store,
or yamabond, on both sides of the gasket.
a plumbing flux brush works great for applying a nice even light coat,
then torque the bolts to spec...like 5 - 7 ft. lbs. only.
allow to cure overnight then leakdown test again, no more than 7psi pressure.
 
I had a thick coat of high temp ultra copper on there when I tested it and it leaked. BTW this is with 6 psi pressure
 
Upbasher said:
I had a thick coat of high temp ultra copper on there when I tested it and it leaked. BTW this is with 6 psi pressure
Click to expand...

you gotta let it cure overnight or the pressure will force the RTV out
 
I used a gasket on each side of the reed cage and a light coat of Yamaha bond. IMO... RTV will not stand a lot of exposure to gas and vibration .
 
RTV should only be used for the exhaust.

If you have quality gaskets and torque properly, you should be able to seal it. maybe will slight yamabond
 
not to start a great debate, I've used both yamabond and ultra copper with the exact same results, longterm leak free.

for those in a pinch, without a yamaha dealer handy or not open on a sunday, don't want to spend the $ on yamabond, ect. ect. ultra copper works

Permatex Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker:
OEM specified for high operating temperatures common in 4-cylinder, turbocharged or high-performance engines. The most advanced, high temp RTV silicone gasket available. Sensor-safe, low odor, noncorrosive. Superior adhesion. Three times more oil resistant than conventional silicones; eight times more flexible than cut gaskets. Temperature range -65°F to 700°F (-54°C to 371°C) intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids and vibration
recommended uses:
Exhaust manifolds/headers, Exhaust header flanges, slip fit exhaust pipes, muffler end caps, valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housings, intake manifold end seals

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...-temperature-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-detail

or....

Permatex® MotoSeal® 1 Ultimate Gasket Maker Grey
For two and four cycle engines. Solvent-based bond fully seals within 20 minutes. Forms a tough flexible bond that is highly effective on irregular and uneven joint surfaces. Resists gasoline and other damaging fluids. Withstands temperatures 350°F (177°C) continuous, 400°F (204°C) intermittent.
 
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Larry's Shee said:
Looks good!! So that others who are following know, how much you have in your tester, and were any pieces already on hand?
Click to expand...
And now do you understand the importance of a leak tester?

Once you seal the intake, remember to do another test. You may have other leaks.

and be sure you use RTV on the exhaust when you install it. depending on what brand, a little or lot would be needed haha
 
Upbasher said:
OMG guys cmon. I dont own a leak down tester. I dont want to. There are NO air leaks. I am 100 percent positive.
Click to expand...

Upbasher said:
Everytjing is sealed so tight air wont get in throught anywhere except the air filter for a thousand years.
Click to expand...

Upbasher said:
Anyways I found a leak on top of the carb/reed boot.
Click to expand...

Hate to say we told you so, but... We told you so. Glad you finally listened before you smoked piston number 3. I' think we're up to 3, right? Now, next question. You mentioned you put in a bigger main jet. What size?
 
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Upbasher said:
Everytjing is sealed so tight air wont get in throught anywhere except the air filter for a thousand years.
Click to expand...
Do not tighten the carb boot up more than 5.8 ft lbs!

Even with RTV or Bond on the sealing surfaces, if it is not tightened properly ( diagonally and incrementally) it may warp and still leak!

Over tightening of the carb boot/reed block has been responsible for many a fried piston!
 
The tester cost about $30 to build. But it took me a long time to find the parts. Only one on hand was the bike tire valve that i chopped off a tube. I got a 260 main jet in it
 
If the lid and snorkel are on the air box, you are probably just slightly lean, even with a sealed motor. If the lid is off, you are waaay lean.
 
Blues man thank you for telling me as soon as I get this leak sealed up Im gonna put a fresh br8es plug in a 300 size jet amd then do a plug chop and see what it looks like
 
Sorry to be hard on you, but you are getting on the right track. I would go even higher on the main jet. I'd start with a 320 and chop down. Better safe than sorry.
 
Il probably be running with no airbox lid because All those stupid metal things in the plastic stripped out so......
 
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