want hydro rear brakes

Are you good with fabbing? I used a Warrior set-up. Only thing I need to re-do is the pedal extension for master is to long, not enough pressure. Just look at images of rear brake set-ups to get an idea of how to fit it. Have to make bracket to mount cali also.

Ha! A little cheaper?
Take it from those of us with great fabbing and shopping skills, hs brakes are a deal.
I have the warrior set up too, but I don't know if I saved any money or got a better setup than Awk's.

If you want the skinny on how to install a Warrior (or any other rear ATV) caliper, look up my past posts.

Steve

If mine wasn't 130 miles away I'd get some pics. This is first assembly I came accross. The resi hose is long enough I mounted the resi on top tube of rear subframe , right/front of air box. Some images of brakes, might help ya. As Awk pointed out in a recent post, motion of pedal extension must be perpendicular to master. Cali is floating as is rotor which is OK no need to change hub, actually makes it easier because you get more "fudge factor"

1994 Yamaha Warrior 350 Complete Rear Brake Caliper Master Cylinder Assembly | eBay

Blaster rear hydro brake images - Google Search

I got an extra caliper and misc parts, ill have to dig it out my bin of parts but I think I got a pedal master and caliper just have to get mounts for it, let me see what I can find in my hurricane mess of a garage, remodeling it so its torn apart. How much u trying to spend?

OK, I`ll post pictures, just did it for another thread...



Master Cylinder mount involved welding a nut to the frame tube, always a bad thing to do to Chrome Moly. Look at Awk's M/C mount, looks real nice, much better than this. Also welded an extension to the rear of the lever and straightened the front of the lever out but the leverage is still not really right. The M/C mount should be closer to the brake lever pivot or the pivot should be closer to the rear. Takes too a firm pressure to lock the brakes.



The rear caliper is a Warrior unit I got for $10 off Ebay because its mount was broken. As you can see, I am not using the floating mount because I have a floating disk (as do you). A piece of 1/4" steel flatbar is sandwiched to where the mechanical park brake bolts on and mounts to the axle bearing carrier. The mechanical park brake is still usable if you wish to hook a cable to it. Ignore the 3-holes bracket hanging off the back. That was for an earlier Ninja 250 caliper I used.

Very pleased with the Warrior caliper, and the mount was cheap to make but measurement and drilling were critical. It works well.

Be aware of the floating disk issue. Early mechanical (cable) brakes used a floating disk, the later hydraulic rear brake used a fixed disk and different mounts for the caliper. If you float the disk, you have to fix the caliper and vis-versa.

Steve

I just did a mxz600 caliper to my blaster. Works great just gotta drill the hole bigger and weld a mount on the carrier.

That was just first full set I ran across. Banshee,YFZ, Raptor all the same. Wouldn't worry about YFZ front cali, just more $$ plus piecing together. Good luck, keep us informed.

blaster82 said:

Thanks larry and best. larry i might just end up getting that warrior brake you showed on ebay. thats a deal! best, thanks for the good info. I will deff be referencing this thread when I go to build it.scottabellinger, glad you could make something work. Im not sure how good you are with fabricating but Im no expert but Im sure I can make something work.

Click to expand...

I like my rear Warrior setup, especially with floating rear disk, but Awk's caliper set up has more piston area "I believe" so would actually apply stronger with less master cylinder force or leverage. I must recommend Awk's master cylinder set up over my own, I really like his design. No frame welding, good angles, clean and simple. I would strongly recommend buying at least that if he sells it separately.

This is an early version I believe, still looks great.