dzeolla87
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  • I can't repost, you were the one who posted it for me or edit it, Just do the quad at $1,100 trailer $300
    no, only you can edit your own threads, just repost, new lower price......
    yeah bro, i didnt wanna say anything, but you'll be lucky to get $1200 for the quad, ya never get out what ya put into blasters, and i've seen 03 - 05's lately goin for $1200 - $1500
    and small trailers can be had at lowes for $500
    MY QUAD IS UP FOR SALE
    New piston bored .020 over, hasn't been ridden yet,
    Toomey B1 racing pipe
    Toomey B1 silencer
    Green Flames Seat
    Green Flames Grips
    Green Flames Shocks
    BRAND NEW TIRES FRONT AND REAR
    Rear is Mud Shark
    Front is ITP Holeshot
    Hydrualic Rear brake conversion bracket kit
    Painted frame black with clear coat on top
    IMS Fatty Foot pegs
    IMS Heel Guard
    Cycra handle guard, 1 is still on, other 1 is broken
    Moose Racing Throttle
    New Moose Racing Front bumper
    Wide Rear Grab Bar
    Sprayed all rims black
    Sprayed all hub green
    Rear swing arm guard

    I have title for it, also some misc stock parts, plus a manual book

    I will sell quad at $1,500 and Trailer at $500 OR YOUR BEST OFFER!!!!
    TEXT ME 412 251 3466
    OR CALL ME 866 758 7515
    ALSO a 4x6 trailer for sale, its a 2009 Carry Craft, also have title for it, I also sprayed whole trailer with rust free black spray paint, so there is no rust on the trailer
    That quad fits trailer just fine, It also have license plate
    i told you way before, it wasnt the caliper, it's the way your bleeding them, they gotta be off the bike, up in the air, with the bleeders facing upwards, pump the pedal, release bleeder while holding the pedal down, tighten bleeder, release pedal, repeat till no air comes out of them, works everytime
    how much ya want for that original caliper ????
    hey bro, good to heaqr from ya, and i doubt the caliper is bad if it isnt leaking fluid, did you try takeing the caliper off the bracket, flip it over so the bleeders face upwards, seems these have a pocket that air gets trapped in, and the above mentioned always fixes that
    you have to be a supporting member, or have at least 300 posts to use the "for sale" and "wanted" threads, that keeps spammers out and also helps protect our members from people that just come here to sell sh*t, and possibly rip us off by not sending the goods, but i could post sumthin for you, if you want, just type up a for sale ad, send pics with it, and i'll post for you, saying to contact you
    i doubt your gonna get 2 grand for the bike, even like new 2005's arent gettin that much, ya never get outta these blasters what ya put in them, most good condition 03+ are gettin maybe $1800, and anything up to 02, great shape, may get $1200, maybe 15,
    but i could be interested in the trailer if you cant sell them both as a package deal
    lemme know
    well theres no real way i can tell whether to go to 0.10 or 0.20 from just looknig at a piston, youd have it measured by a shop. the safest thing to do would be just do .020. you said the sleeve isnt damaged but excess wear is what id be concerned about, and yes i use a wiseco piston for your rebuild
    boy that a tuff call d, you mighta knocked some electrical connection loose, or... i cased my bike very hard one time and actually bent the tab on the floats and it was gettin way too much gas and hardly ran at all,
    i'd first check all electrical connections then pull the carb and give it a good cleaning, maybe just some dirt got knocked around outta the bowl and clogged a jet

    and the flaots should be 20 - 21.5 mm from where the gasket would sit to the top of float, this is measured when you tilt the carb and the float just touches the little pin sticking outta the float valve,
    buy the kit, chances are you'll get another bad master, rebuild that one and you know it's good, there easy to do, pull that rubber boot, undo the snap ring and it will all pull down out, replace the o-rings and rubber cup washer and re-assemble
    yes, forcing that rod in there on an angle has to be hard on them orings, give what you said a try and lemme know, i'm getting your brakes working soon no matter what it takes!!!!!
    im gonna be making brackets soon, possibly over the weekend, and will send or bring you a new one, this has gone on way too long, and what we have been doing isnt working, so let me get these made and i may just come help you do this, i'll holler when ready
    Well if it has to be straight as possible then i would need a new bracket for that master cylinder only, i don't think i can re drill the hole or else it would just make a bigger hole
    if them washers arent leaking fluid they are good, and the rod must be straight going into the master, or it wont push the piston in far enuf, try just undoing the pin, straighten it up and just use the pedal without being connected by the pin, see if that helps, then drill a new hole for the pin if that works,it has to be as straight as possible
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