BlasterFreak860
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  • sounds like a clogged pilot jet or air screw needs adjusted
    get it to idle, however, try the choke knob first
    then adjust the air screw 1/2 turn at a time, allowing 20-30 seconds between turns to allow the engine to adjust to the new setting, till you find where it idles the highest, that should be between 1/2 and 2-1/2 turns out
    if under 1/2 turn= leaner pilot
    over 2-1/2 turns = richer pilot
    a-ha...you have found the biggest problem with these carbs, no idle adjuster per say.
    the choke knob is the idle adjust, you unscrew it upwards to add idle, apparently it adds more fuel ???
    but how does just adding fuel and no air with it increase idle ???
    it does work, but not until i have to use the cable adjusters to hold my slide open slightly to acheive a good idle, then i use the choke knob adjustment to fine tune

    seems weird your's idled before you washed it, maybe somethings wet and causing electrical troubles ?
    i'd wait to see how it acts tomorrow after thoroughly drying out ???

    if not, adjust the adjustment on top of the carb, where the cable enters, then use the one on the throttle to adjust the cable tight until it idles for you.
    this will cause the bike to idle slightly higher when the bars are fully cranked one way or another, but thats not really a big deal, at least for me, i've learned to live with it
    Float is at 16-18mm, 48 pilot and a 158 main and a cel needle on the middle clip and it seems to be running absolutely amazing!! My low end power has improved so much better with this set up then with the stock carb and pipe i was running. And yeah ive already talked to him and he said to get used to the 240 kit first and make sure im really used to it! but before i get it ported and stuff im gunna do control arms and swingarm so it sits more stable then the stock suspension so its safer!!
    good to hear, and glad i could help.
    so what jetting and needle did you and up with ???
    and before taking that to ken....better do some forearm excersizes, so it doesn't rip outta your hands, LOL
    the only thing that carb parts lists, is the stock 250r jetting, now those pilots(slow) and mains may work, but these needles listed are too rich
    you have to call them and just order over the phone, he will even send you a paypal request for the money

    PJ Jetting and Dimensions
    forget all those jibberish numbers, talk in real keihin #'s
    slow(pilot) jets.....42/45/48/50
    main jets....148/150/152/155
    and no, the stock trx250r needle will not work, they are far too rich
    you must run a dhg or cel needle
    trust me, i've been running this PJ for almost 4 years now, and have tried everything
    what i'm telling you is what works
    who the F told you to run any needle on the 5th clip position ???? they're smokin crack !

    look in my sig below for my mods, here's my jetting on my 34mm pj carb...........

    floats at 16-18mm
    48 pilot
    "dgh" needle on middle clip
    155 main

    my pilot just went up with this latest round of KOR porting
    i had ran a 45 pilot for almost 3 years, ken said my jetting was dead on, as the piston/rings had just worn beyond the limit, well over 2-300 hours on them,
    but had almost zero carbon buildup

    i'd order 42/45/48 and 50 pilots
    145-160 mains
    and either the "cel" needle i have or a "dgh"

    here's who told me to use the dgh/cel needles, and who i order my jets from, just call them,
    the dude knows his sh*t and will suggest/sale you the jets you need............

    Carburetor Parts Warehouse
    you'll be just fine with those mods, although i'm not a fan of the choking point rad valves, VF3's.....FTW !!!!
    when you get ready to jet that carb, gimme another holler, i got jetting answers for ya too
    i have a "cel" needle i just ordered from ebay for $10, but my motor liked the richer "dgh" that had been in it all along, you will need a needle change in that carb, guarenteed
    lemme know if you'd like this one i have, $10, same as i paid
    I'm not familiar with the Rad valve, bit if it takes a separate boot w/ 2 clamps?
    Measure the OD of both and go to.


    Siliconintakes.com
    Look in the reducers section for the size you need and color you chose
    best boots made!
    brand spanking new for a few more bucks ...........

    Honda TRX 250R TRX250R ATV Carb/Carburetor 1989-89 New! | eBay
    Keihin Carb Manifold and Throttle Cable 250R TRX Trx250R Honda | eBay

    /\/\/\ i'll buy that intake from ya for a few bucks if ya win it


    TRX 250R TRX250R Keihen stock Carb 34mm Carburator | eBay
    oh, thats the one up for bid, no way will it hit $100
    i'd bid $65 and see what it does in 5 days
    meeehhh, i've seen them go for way less, i paid $50 for mine, then $20+ for a cable
    that does look very clean, but a little different than mine how the fuel inlet faces forward vs. mine...straight up
    lemme see what i have saved in my ebay
    yep, a 34/35mm will work great on a BBK,
    as will a toomey or any of the right bend pipes will...F7, CT, Trinity, Power Pro's, Dyno-Port
    34'S AND 35'S ARE GENERALLY FOR BIG BORE KITS AND STOCK CYLINDERS WITH AGGRESSIVE PORTING

    sorry bout the caps lock
    whoa, whoa, whoaaaaaaa
    that 38 is way too large, i thought it was a 34mm PJ like the one i run
    you'll have jetting nightmares trying to jet a 38mm, as our bikes will not produce enuf air velocity in that size carb to pull enuf fuel from the jets,
    some say too large a carb will always run lean because of this.
    sorry bro, but i suggest not running that carb
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