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- Thread starter blastinaround
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Nice clean trade
Confirm that main jet, should be 1-2 sizes larger than the stock 230 main for an air filter/lid removed (240/250)
plug chop to confirm main jetting..... https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-plug-chop.53237/
check compression with a known, good quality compression tester, cheapo's have a history of being off quite a bit.
anything 100psi or less show obvious signs of a worn piston/cylinder, 120-ish is golden
it'd be best to catch it before the piston explodes (if stock cast piston) or causes any further damage to the cylinder.
a new cylinder bore/hone to the exact piston to be used by a reputable shop should be around/under a few hundred bucks now, if the piston breaks it could lead to bottom end damage and be much more $
a lot of us use http://www.kenoconnorracing.com/ if no reputable shop is close by.
Confirm that main jet, should be 1-2 sizes larger than the stock 230 main for an air filter/lid removed (240/250)
plug chop to confirm main jetting..... https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-plug-chop.53237/
check compression with a known, good quality compression tester, cheapo's have a history of being off quite a bit.
anything 100psi or less show obvious signs of a worn piston/cylinder, 120-ish is golden
it'd be best to catch it before the piston explodes (if stock cast piston) or causes any further damage to the cylinder.
a new cylinder bore/hone to the exact piston to be used by a reputable shop should be around/under a few hundred bucks now, if the piston breaks it could lead to bottom end damage and be much more $
a lot of us use http://www.kenoconnorracing.com/ if no reputable shop is close by.
Thanks for the reply!!
I pull the bike apart today. I confirmed a 250 main jet. I borrowed my mechanic buddies compression tester, and it is around 110-115 psi.
The top two reeds in the cage are chipped? on the very tip. I cant really see light though them I suppose, but I have a V-Force4 system on the way for safe measure.
I also installed an FMF Fatty, an am awaiting delivery of my jets. I think starting with a 300 will be ok? It has been around 40-50f here lately. I'm at 780ft above sea level.
Hope I am doing this all right. I am not completely mechanically illiterate, I have built a few Subarus in the past lol. Never a 2smoker though..
Do a plug chop with the 300 when ya get the FMF on there to see where you're at, it'll be close
Plug Chops .... the best way to confirm where you're at jetting wise, and not fry pistons
Plug Chops .... the best way to confirm where you're at jetting wise, and not fry pistons
300 was spot on. It was 50f during test. I put a 320 in, afterwards, because the temps look like they will continue to drop as we move through November. The 320 was rather boggy though. I think a 310 will be fine and allow me to ride, at least until I can't bear it anyways.
Next question, I feel like I have gained SO MUCH mid range power, that it made the top end feel almost non existent. Is that normal with these specific mods? It's almost as though the bike stops pulling around 6000rpm, and just kinda drops off. It's an absolute MONSTER off the throttle, into the mid range though, such a HUGE difference. It feels amazingly smooth and crisp on and off the throttle, extremely responsive. I think the reeds attribute to that some.
***Would porting the jug get me some of the top end back? Not even sure I'd want to though, because 90% of my riding is trails..
The FMF is a low/mid pipe, it performs best in the low to mid rpm's as you describe, I've tuned a few carbs with FMF's but didn't ride them enough afterwards to feel the drop off, and not sure if porting will give more top end with that pipe ?
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