Disaster blaster fix
- Thread starter Joshbegle
- Start date
That’s a clever way to remove the clutch boss. On those what most people call (Star) head screws which are actually JIS Japanese industrial standard screws, your supposed to use a JIS driver to remove those. Otherwise you will just destroy them every time.
Yep, that seal does look to be finished and over do for replacement. From the looks of it I’d say it’s probably about time for a top end rebuild and it’s a good thing your doing so. Make sure to leak down test it when your done, I’m sure you hear it a lot but trust me when I tell you, it’s an absolute must.
Yep, that seal does look to be finished and over do for replacement. From the looks of it I’d say it’s probably about time for a top end rebuild and it’s a good thing your doing so. Make sure to leak down test it when your done, I’m sure you hear it a lot but trust me when I tell you, it’s an absolute must.
So as we stand im waiting on a seal puller my seals came in and my bolt kit
So for now ill leave u with this lifted golf cart (yamaha) and the blaster i will be be back very soon thank you!
Sly is correct, you can use a manual impact if bad comes to worse. Just make sure you use JIS bits with it. On blasters/banshees I have always gotten away with a T handle with JIS bits. Just make sure to push pretty hard and turn. But if the head of the screw is already messed up then an impact driver is more then likely going to be needed.
Bingo got the seal in went out and bought a seal puller right out ok so now here is my list of what im geting a gasket kit to do all the gaskets ill preform a leakdown test and prey it holds im waiting on a cheap ebay carb it was like 40 bucks and that vitos plus 5hp piston any body used that? And is it worth the 80 bucks? I think i can get away with honing the cylinder theres no scaring or marks no blowby on the piston just a ton to buildup on top and slight carbon on the first ring near the openig, expected? And shows wear on the sides no scaring or grooves it just looks old so ill also need a clutch basket and idw pay 250 for it hows the wiesco forged for 200 is it as good as the hinson? Ok and the ebay carb i can jet that correct? Are jets universal?
If you purchased a good used factory carb then yes, you will have no issues with jetting. If however you purchased a (NEW) from China carb then your out of luck. If you did the China dance then I would contact the seller as soon as the carb arrives and tell them the carb just doesn’t work and could you get your money back.
Now on the vito’s gimmick, nope, it’s a waste of funds. I’d get a genuine Yamaha piston from RockyMountain oem, as far as just needing a hone, I would definitely measure the cylinder to make sure it only needs a quick hone.
The wiseco basket is a good piece but will require you to drill out your old baskets rivets and re using the gear from the back. If your going that route I would highly recommend that you get some new basket cushions as well because I haven’t seen one basket ever not needing them.
Now on the vito’s gimmick, nope, it’s a waste of funds. I’d get a genuine Yamaha piston from RockyMountain oem, as far as just needing a hone, I would definitely measure the cylinder to make sure it only needs a quick hone.
The wiseco basket is a good piece but will require you to drill out your old baskets rivets and re using the gear from the back. If your going that route I would highly recommend that you get some new basket cushions as well because I haven’t seen one basket ever not needing them.
No problem, that’s what we’re here for. That is a .040 67mm forged piston from wiseco. As for the nut, you can get them from just about any oem parts dealers online. Ken probably has them as well.
If the cross hatch is still prevalent and there is no scars/marks then you might be able to get away with it. I just personally never tell people to do it because I never like to take risks. I always try to adhere to the service manual.
If the cross hatch is still prevalent and there is no scars/marks then you might be able to get away with it. I just personally never tell people to do it because I never like to take risks. I always try to adhere to the service manual.
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Thank you, I try to help the best I can. But then again doing this for about fourteen years doesn’t hurt ether. Good luck on everything and if you have any questions feel free to ask away.
Ken is KenOconnerRacing he is a guy that is well known on this site for blasters in particularly.
As for the tors, it should idle if you have the screw turned in as far as I remember. But I normally delete them because they always act up after time. To delete it you will need a kit. The kit consists of throttle cable, cap and adjuster, idle screw, drill bit and tap. All you have to do to install it is drill a hole in the side of the carb then file/grind down the nub that you just drilled and then tap the hole. Afterwards give the carb a good cleaning.
As for the tors, it should idle if you have the screw turned in as far as I remember. But I normally delete them because they always act up after time. To delete it you will need a kit. The kit consists of throttle cable, cap and adjuster, idle screw, drill bit and tap. All you have to do to install it is drill a hole in the side of the carb then file/grind down the nub that you just drilled and then tap the hole. Afterwards give the carb a good cleaning.
So will the tors on it but unpluged cause an issue just curious in case i go to start it before i get a new carb or rebuild this one
https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-your-tors-88-02-models.655/
Follow this link and it will explain everything you need to know about removing the tors system.
You shouldn’t have any issues with adjusting the idle via the tors box on top of the carb. In my opinion I would definitely stick with the carb you have and install a tors elimination kit and cleaned that bad boy up.
Follow this link and it will explain everything you need to know about removing the tors system.
You shouldn’t have any issues with adjusting the idle via the tors box on top of the carb. In my opinion I would definitely stick with the carb you have and install a tors elimination kit and cleaned that bad boy up.
Looking great so far bud, if that’s the only scratch in the piston then I don’t see why not. I would definitely put a new set of rings on it and put a hone on the cylinder just to play it safe. Wiseco pistons are definitely tough pistons, I actually ran a set in my 1g dsm 4g63t with some manley turbo tuff rods and was running it at 36psi and over 800hp with many track hits on her and wide open roll races. When I finally got around to tearing it down and freshening her up, the pistons looked exactly like when I installed them.
Yep, just grind them down and punch them right out then your ready for your new basket.
Yep, just grind them down and punch them right out then your ready for your new basket.
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