Which throttle cable

BansheeBandit

New Member
Mar 26, 2019
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Ok on a 2000 blaster I removed tors and all wiring, I wna remove the brick on the carb and run straight throttle cable, which brand do I use please and thank you
 
Sorry to hyjack this thread but I can’t figure out how to start my own .
Does anyone know what the gap is supposed to be on the throttle valve.
I just finished the diy tors removal ( basically just in plugged it)on a blaster I just picked up.
It won’t run hardly at all. I found the needle and seat looks damaged, the needle jet tip is flattened. These I will replace with a rebuild kit.
When reassembling I noticed the throttle valve seems to be opened up too much. Probably about a 1/8” or more. Shouldn’t it be closed all the way?
Thanks
 
it should not be closed all the way when looking from the backside
 
upload_2019-11-5_19-7-33.jpeg
 
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Yeah that's open way too far ......
is your throttle cable too tight, or routed incorrectly, holding it open
the idle screw on top of the TORS brick turned too far and holding it open
is the needle going down into the needle jet ?
is the slide down in the throttle body correctly ? there's a pin on the kicker side that the groove in the slide must align with
 
Are you mixing fuel/oil or running the stock oil injection ?
if mixing this brass nipple needs blocked off with an 1/8" vacuum cap from an auto store
if injecting the oil, reconnect your oil line
(I'd kick it over a few times to make sure it is pumping oil before reconnecting the line. If not, there's a bleeder screw and procedure in the free manual download in the support section)

carb.jpg
 
Yeah that's open way too far ......
is your throttle cable too tight, or routed incorrectly, holding it open
the idle screw on top of the TORS brick turned too far and holding it open
is the needle going down into the needle jet ?
is the slide down in the throttle body correctly ? there's a pin on the kicker side that the groove in the slide must align with

Throttle body and needle are good,cable routing is ok, the screw on the brick don’t seem to change idle much. I’ll pull the carb out and see if I can adjust cable slack/tightness.
 
Are you mixing fuel/oil or running the stock oil injection ?
if mixing this brass nipple needs blocked off with an 1/8" vacuum cap from an auto store
if injecting the oil, reconnect your oil line
(I'd kick it over a few times to make sure it is pumping oil before reconnecting the line. If not, there's a bleeder screw and procedure in the free manual download in the support section)

View attachment 34091

I’m mixing because the oil tank is missing. I did just have the oil line in the brass nipple when trying to get it to run. I’ll get a vacuum cap.
After installing the the rebuild kit, and adjusting the float height it will fire up and idle high(throttle valve is too high) it will die when I try to open the throttle a little.
 
Delete the TORS system ?
Choose your year .....
https://www.blasterforum.com/forums/electrical.170/
Mine is a 1999.
I believe that’s the thread I read.
Please correct me if my thinking is off.
What I did is unplug the system by unplugging 3 places: wire coming from thumb throttle (black connection), the “brain” (white connection), and the white connection coming out of the “brick”.
I just didn’t want to cut the wires off.
I did notice if you unplug one connection at a time while it is running, it will stall.
 
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