DiY TORS delete kit

gridlock

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Dec 4, 2010
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I ordered myself the MOOSE racing cap installation kit to remove the tors like almost all people do, The kit cost me $63.95 but only consisted of a few items that could be purchased at a lower price and not have the moose name on it
1 throttle cable here $18.99
1 carb cap and cap adjuster here $16.95
1 adjustment screw here $6.04
1 #5 drill bit here $6.45
1 6mmx .75 tap here $5.18

Total is $53.61
only a $10.34 in savings but if you are like me, you might already have some of these things and it will reduce the cost
 

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if you read this and wonder why a #5 drill bit and not a #6 like in the PDF, its because i couldnt find one on eBay that was cheap enough but its actually closer to what your supposed to use for a 6mmx .75 metric tap
http://www.shender4.com/metric_thread_chart.htm
for that tap your supposed to use a 5.25mm drill bit and if you convert that to SAE its .2066" and a #5 drill bit is .2055" unlike the #6 bit that is .2040", i know its only thousandths but it is closer
also like to ad that a 13/64 drill bit is .2031" so it may work or might be a little tight
 
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good post for an alternative to the vitos and motion pro kits
stickied for future reference
 
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I don't know if it was a fluke or not, but I ordered a replacement cable for the motion pro kit and it came with the whole kit. Cap and cable.
Rocky Mountain Part# 1153620002 $10.79
 
I ordered myself the MOOSE racing cap installation kit to remove the tors like almost all people do, The kit cost me $63.95 but only consisted of a few items that could be purchased at a lower price and not have the moose name on it
1 throttle cable here $18.99
1 carb cap and cap adjuster here $16.95
1 adjustment screw here $6.04
1 #5 drill bit here $6.45
1 6mmx .75 tap here $5.18

Total is $53.61
only a $10.34 in savings but if you are like me, you might already have some of these things and it will reduce the cost
My TORS was mostly removed when I bought my 2002 Blaster. I went through and cleaned up unnecessary wiring and cleaned up the bike, changed tranny oil, made sure I had new and properly mixed gas. It started first kick every time for a couple of weeks, then all of a sudden it was hard to start, now it might start after 20 kicks, but only runs for a couple of seconds. I'm removing the TORS module from the top of the carb and replacing the carb cap to accept a new throttle cable. But I'm just curious why it would behave like this. It has spark and seem to be getting gas. It acts as though there is a kill switch engaged but those all check out. And like I said, it will start intermittently. The only mod appears to be the racing exhaust and disconnect of TORS, but everything was fine like it was...then no run. Any ideas? Thank you. I'm new to this forum and can't figure out how to start a new post, it's late here..but am I missing something?
 
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I ordered myself the MOOSE racing cap installation kit to remove the tors like almost all people do, The kit cost me $63.95 but only consisted of a few items that could be purchased at a lower price and not have the moose name on it
1 throttle cable here $18.99
1 carb cap and cap adjuster here $16.95
1 adjustment screw here $6.04
1 #5 drill bit here $6.45
1 6mmx .75 tap here $5.18

I have a 1989 yamaha blaster with a twist throttle and from what ive heard the tors should have already been removed but it still there. recently i was trying to tune my bike so I decided to mess the idle screw on top of tors. i ended up stripping it and then it ran like crap it would high rev when started sometimes and right before it quit running on me i only had like 1/4 of my throttle power and could barely get out of neutral or switch gears just puting along. i want to get the tors elimination kit or just a whole new carb and throttle cable. anyways i unplugged the tors cable from the carb and from under the hood the one that ran to the thumb throttle was already unplugged. but it wont start plugged in or unplugged i see some people cut and cross there wires is that something i should try. from my understanding it should run with the tors cables unconnected. the plug is getting spark good compression solid reeds clean carb
 
FWIW, yesterday I found a problem on mine. The bike was acting weird and I just could not tune it. Will tune it and then it seems fine, then the next day struggled to start. I eventually started looking at the TORS trying to under stand it nad in the process found a bare part of wire touching the frame inside the handle bars. This was a B/W (black wire with white stripe). These are used to ground against frame to kill the spark.

Gets used by Key Switch, ON OFF switch and yes, TORS control unit. So this wire would intermittently touch the metal and kill the spark.

I was on the verge of killing the TORS completely till I found this.

So yes, remove TORS and see if it changes.
 
You don’t need a whole kit. Just a new throttle cable that has the end for the carb. The original threaded nipple that originally screwed into the tors unit on the carb holds the cable just fine. Then when u remove the tors units (module and carb unit) chase down attached wires and cut them all so you don’t have any problems. I did mine and it works great.
 
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You don’t need a whole kit. Just a new throttle cable that has the end for the carb. The original threaded nipple that originally screwed into the tors unit on the carb holds the cable just fine. Then when u remove the tors units (module and carb unit) chase down attached wires and cut them all so you don’t have any problems. I did mine and it works great.

Where did u get your cable? im interested in how u did this. Thanks