Bogs down

Dschade

New Member
Feb 24, 2019
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OK so I bought the moose carburetor rebuild kit. Everything is the same as stock, by what the imprints says on the jets, needle, and pilot. The stock was 220 and this came with a 230 only difference.

Anyways airbox lid is off. New air filter. Tors delete.

Compression - 120psi
Leak down test - 12 psi 20 min no leak
Spark plug - b8es
Premix - 32-1
Float height - 20.68mm at 45°
Main jet 230

So the problem I am having is when I turn the fuel on it leaks out the carburetor drain tube. I straighten the carburetor up as straight as possible, it stopped leaking. I start it up idles good. Give it gas it bogs, sometimes. I go up a hill it bogs. Runs good 1st-3rd. I'll go past 1/2 throttle in 3rd it will bog for a second then run normal till I go to 4th. Then anything over an 1/8 to 1/4 throttle it will bog constantly.

I'm not sure what to do? I've cleaned it multiple times and keep checking float height. What float should be in there? On the float it says 40 ?and on my other float I have says 27? Any help will be appreciated!

Thank you
 
you have a float height or float valve problem now, allowing too much fuel into the carb bowl, which will effect the jetting, and leak out the overflow ? .......

https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/float-heights-and-how-to-adjust-them.50565/

https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/easy-and-almost-free-way-to-stop-leaky-carbs.33335/

Cool thank you for the reply. I'll double check the valve needle, maybe it's getting hung up? So it's either of the two. I'll check it out and let you know my findings.
 
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OK so I got it not to leak when I turn on the fuel. It will only drip for a sec or two if I shake the hell outta the bike. So I think the float is right.

Now I still have a slight hesitation at half to wot. It will hesitate for a sec or 3? then take off and run fine? It kinda bogs for a sec in idle too, when I blip the throttle.

Thank you for the help.
 
I still can't figure out why it bogs down? Float and needle is right, carb cleaned, no leaks?
 
sorry I missed this in your first post .... increase that main jet 1-2 sizes for the premix and airbox lid off, or she's gonna fry !

in this order.....

did you measure the float height ? if not it's possible you set it too low and the bowl doesn't have the correct fuel level in it.
double check the float height measurement while you're in there changing main jets.

tune the airscrew to find highest idle between 1/2 and 2 turns out
needle clip in the middle slot
plug chop for main jetting.....

I'd buy 240/250/260 main jets, a 6 pack of b8es plugs, start with the 260 and plug chop down
https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-plug-chop.53237/
 
OK I got it running fine thru out the gears but my problem is that it will take 20-30 kicks and it will start and bog for a few seconds. Once I get it started for the day, it's pretty easy to start after that and doesn't bog.

Please don't say check my floats. I've adjusted between 20-21.5mm and checked it a hundred times.

This bike is becoming really frustrating to work with. I wanna give up but I also don't give up easily.
 
FWIW... I was struggeling with one of my quads like this and in the end it was multiple faults happening on one another. It started running worse and worse and then it died and we had to tow it home.

Diagnosed the Ignition Coil which WAS faulty but still it did not want to start.
Carb (Fuel and Air) was fine.
Spark was fine

Just before I decided to give up, with the carb removed, I slid my phone into the space where the carb is to check the reeds and this is what I saw.

WhiteQuadReeds.jpg


and we checked the reeds a week ago, it was fine.

Lessons learnt.
2 faults can happen at the same time (coil and reeds went faulty at the same time)
Compression can be good WITH a faulty reeds.
Struggle to start, check the reeds. Its takes 20 minutes to check.

On a side note, we replaced the faulty reeds with a credit car replacement lol While waiting on the part. It is working fine now.

Don't give up.