Clutch will not dis-engage

MasonBraaps

Member
Jul 9, 2015
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1990 blaster

Clutch will not dis-engage what so ever.
-no the ball bearing is not welded to the push rod
-yes the actuator is in good condition
-yes the basket is filed and smooth
-yes it is adjusted correctly inside and out
-yes it is assembled correctly
-yes the dots are aligned
-running 10w-40 yamalube

While I have the clutch cover off and everything connected I can even see the plates seperate when I pull in the clutch lever but it still grabs completely, when I drive it I’ll pull in the clutch and it will not dis-engage at all no matter what....

The only odd thing I have noticed is that when I torque the basket to 58 ft/lbs, the inner hub wont spin (I assume it should so that the power doesn’t continue to the transmission) but maybe it’s not supposed to, I’m not sure.

Any help is much appreciated.
 
Had the same problem with my kx, turned out to be the plates ,take a look at them maybe you will find something
 
disassemble the whole clutch area and check every part and washer is present and in the correct place.
pay close attention to thick and thin washers and where they go.
we've seen those washers get mixed up, and incorrect thickness aftermarket washers behind the basket cause similar symptoms.

https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2001-yamaha-blaster-200-yfs200n/o/m145851#sch110612

ya6642_16.gif
 
disassemble the whole clutch area and check every part and washer is present and in the correct place.
pay close attention to thick and thin washers and where they go.
we've seen those washers get mixed up, and incorrect thickness aftermarket washers behind the basket cause similar symptoms.

https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2001-yamaha-blaster-200-yfs200n/o/m145851#sch110612

View attachment 32718

Thin first then thick behind the basket is what it looks like to me, let me know if you think otherwise. Thanks!
 
Well I just reassembled it all with a different set of steel plates, made sure everything was correctly assembled (pushrods and ball bearing as well) and adjusted it perfectly. I saw the plates seperate when I pulled the clutch in again. Put more yamalube 10w-40 in and started it up and warmed it up. Tried it and there was absolutely no disengagement at all. Super aggravating and I don’t know what else I can do. Suggest if you think of anything guys, thanks.
 
if you're seeing the pressure plate moving off the discs when pulling the clutch, that should be enough to release pressure off the fibers/steels to allow them to slip/disengage
seems the problem is with the discs not disengaging from each other ?
did you soak them overnight in the chosen oil before assembly ?
start with a fiber and end with a fiber in the stack ?
 
if you're seeing the pressure plate moving off the discs when pulling the clutch, that should be enough to release pressure off the fibers/steels to allow them to slip/disengage
seems the problem is with the discs not disengaging from each other ?
did you soak them overnight in the chosen oil before assembly ?
start with a fiber and end with a fiber in the stack ?

Yep they’re soaked. As I said in my original post, should the basket and the inner hub spin separately from each other when’s there is no pressure on the plates? If they’re supposed to they don’t. Correct me if I’m wrong but when the clutch is dis-engaged, the basket should move with the friction plates and the inner hub should spin with the steel plates. However on my bike the inner hub spins with the basket no matter what. that’s the only thing I can notice that could be wrong. Thanks for the ideas.
 
Probably can't move it by hand, but the basket spins separately from the inner hub.might be warped steels .
Go back through assembly procedure to double check.
 
Probably can't move it by hand, but the basket spins separately from the inner hub.might be warped steels .
Go back through assembly procedure to double check.

I already replaced steels, been through assembly 4 times. Has anyone ever heard of the basket somehow being prevented from seating all the way, maybe the primary drive gear is effecting it?
 
again.....I've seen something similar to this posted on here once, it was the thickness of one of those washers behind the basket
OEM was the correct thickness, a different washer, new or used ?, was too thick
just the only thing I can think of for ya ?

take the primary gear off and see if it effects it ?
how bout the kick started gear ?
 
this is a problem !

even with all the plates removed ?

Yep all plates removed and the inner hub will only move with the basket... I’m gonna order all new oem washers and also check out the drive gear and kickstart whenever I go to put them in... gonna take a week or 2 to ship because I’m in Canada. I’ll update everyone then. Thanks a lot guys.
 
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1D9D32DD-AECD-4BA4-9EDF-131A68EDD398.jpeg
Fixed! I went to my old blaster bolt bin and found all of the old washers and spacers I needed. Thanks to awk’s idea about the washers i figured it out. The spacer on the right is what came in the bike and the washer on the left is the correct oem one. Thanks everyone for your ideas, hopefully this thread will help someone having the same problem!
 
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Awesome you got it fixed, and that I sometimes remember old threads :)