98 200cc runs rich wont accelerate

hoodmekanik

New Member
Nov 7, 2012
9
1
0
I got this blaster in pieces... it came with a new crank with bearings and piston with rings .... so I built the motor and got it running... motor has 150lb compression... I just rebuilt the carb with all new hard parts... sleeve, needle, mixture needle, high speed needle, and etc...

The quad starts up and I can get it to idle off the handle adjustment, there's no idle screw...
But it smokes like crazy and it revs up to a certain point like let's say idle is 1500rpm, highest rev is 5000rpm... no backfires no sputter just tons of smoke...

Now if I start the quad and shut the peacock off and let it idle for a couple seconds and begin to rev it up and I revs perfectly until, the bowl empties out... so I figured obviously its the Carb, but with all new parts in the Carb it still does it.... any suggestions??
 
put all the stock parts back in thee carb, adjust idle, check for airleaks since you rebuilt it, do yo have any aftermarket parts? and since you see no idle screw that means you have the TORS still. so the idle screw should be on the tors system, (Throttle overide system) its the big brick on top of the carb if its not there then you have to adjust it by the cable or install your own idle screw
 
I'd check my float height, I think its suppose to be somewhere between 19 and 21 mm. I'd have to look it up to be sure, I'd say its sticky'd in the "Carb" section.
 
It sounds like a combination of float height and incorrect jet and needle.

Did you scource the carb components seperatly or were they a kit?
 
The tors is removed so I have it idled off the cable... I don't have any leaks... only aftermarket part is the fmf exhaust

[QUOTE=89blaster89;648521]put all the stock parts back in thee carb, adjust idle, check for airleaks since you rebuilt it, do yo have any aftermarket parts? and since you see no idle screw that means you have the TORS still. so the idle screw should be on the tors system, (Throttle overide system) its the big brick on top of the carb if its not there then you have to adjust it by the cable or install your own idle screw[/QUOTE]
 
It sounds like a combination of float height and incorrect jet and needle.

Did you scource the carb components seperatly or were they a kit?

This problem has been happening before the Carb rebuild...

Float height is 20mm- 21mm
 
Does it rev by itself or when you rev it? If it revs by itself you hve an airleak. Also check your reeds for gaps, cracks, or breaks

It doesn't rev up on its own... I rev it and it smokes like a pig and gets stuck at a low rpm... but if I shut off the fuel valve, than it will rev high and the smoke is minimal
 
What 2 stroke oil and ratio are you using.

What mods and jet sizes, pilot, main and needle position.

How many turns out on the air screw?
 
My 99 blaster recently started to smoke like crazy. I figured out i had bad crank seals and my gear oil was leaking into my top end and making it smoke like crazy. I replaced those and now it barely smokes at all. Maybe you got something like that going on. Do you have to add gear oil alot?
 
My 99 blaster recently started to smoke like crazy. I figured out i had bad crank seals and my gear oil was leaking into my top end and making it smoke like crazy. I replaced those and now it barely smokes at all. Maybe you got something like that going on. Do you have to add gear oil alot?

No I don't have to add oil... it only smokes like that when the fuel switch is on.... I also checked it see if the Carb was leaking into the head and it doesn't leak
 
Damn its the weekend and I wanted to go riding... so I took the Carb and reeds out, pulled the Carb apart and now I am going put it in a sonic tank and maybe its just something dirty... well see
 
Why would I need to up the jet size if the bikes running to rich as it is

The stock injection is said to be about 20:1- if you delete that and premix 32:1 You are putting in LESS oil and more fuel. Jetting should be checked, reguardless.
 
It doesn't rev up on its own... I rev it and it smokes like a pig and gets stuck at a low rpm... but if I shut off the fuel valve, than it will rev high and the smoke is minimal

Well yes, because you've created a LEAN situation and it's starving.

You deleted the tors, but haven't added the idle screw? Or still have the big silver box on top of the carb? If so you can still adjust idle with that large screw on that silver box, if it doesn't work then you have to open it up and see what is wrong.

When I switched to PWK carbs I couldn't get the idle set with the idle screw no matter what I did, (They use a plastic piece of crap) I switched to the brass one and still had issues, ended up having to cut a section of the spring off so I could turn it in enough to get the idle correct. Then I was able to properly jet the carb.

Before you put the carb back on the blasty, attach the cable and see if the slide is moving all the way up to give you WOT. I'm thinking the slide isn't going up far enough for top end.
-slick
 
The tors is removed so I have it idled off the cable... I don't have any leaks... only aftermarket part is the fmf exhaust

You stated that the main jet is stock, and you run a FMF, something really amiss here, a stock main jet is way too small for a FMF.

Regardless of what the jetting is, too much fuel is the problem.

What oil do you premix, and how do you measure it?
 
Last edited:
The stock injection is said to be about 20:1- if you delete that and premix 32:1 You are putting in LESS oil and more fuel. Jetting should be checked, reguardless.

The motor gets less oil, but by adding oil to the fuel that passes through the jets you effectivly lean out the air fuel mix.

The oil takes the place of fuel and at 32:1 requires at least one size larger jet.

I sometimes vary my oil ratio to compensate for elevation or temperature changes to save swapping main jets.