Won't stay running or idle

FF119

Member
Sep 11, 2017
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ok Blaster gurus, I praised myself as a good motorcycle carbuerator rebuilder, but, I have to say in my defense I haven't spent a lot of time working on 2 stroke oil injected ATV's, I have gone over this carb on this Blaster and soaked it after a total disassemble, I have installed a new plug, cleaned tank and added fresh gas, now, this Blaster still has the oil injection ( until I receive the kit to do away with it) and the TORS system, I seem to be failing on getting this bike to idle without the choke it the first position while it should be idling on it own without any choke at all, so what is this quad in need of (?) reeds (?) any advice would be greatly appreciated
 
What jets and setting is needle on and what mods are done to the bike? air box lid on or off. aftermarket exhaust?
 
what happens when you adjust the idle it is under the seat
or airscrew setting by the choke lol??
unscrew the gas cap a little to make sure it is ventilating properly:)
 
When I adjust the idle screw under seat or the air screw on left side of carb makes no change in idle, I have done everything on this carb like I have done on any other carb I have worked on in the past, I do a lot of work on motorcycles and this quad has definatly gave my skill kit the run, I have even gone as far as disconnecting the Electronic throttle crap, this quad also has the oil injection hooked up and oil injection pump is working correctly ( until the parts come it to eliminate oil injection ), I have replaced the NGK B8ES plug ( I realize the plug won't keep it from idling ), cleaned all electronic connections, leak down no issues there, compression within limits, it's just something I'm over looking I'm sure, I have never ran into this before but, I normally don't work on 2 strokes but this one has me stumped. I sure I'll stumble into the issue soon, I have stopped for the night to clear my head, just throwing this issue out there, lol.
 
sounds like the tors thread you posted did you unplug it?
got any pics of this blaster? post them:)
i forget everything you have posted buttttt
what is the compression on the cylinder?
did someone put a cheap crap 30 dollar stator on it or a complete
cylinder plus top end for 100bucks off of e-bay??

can you rev the thing fully sitting still???
 
By what I can see which the VINis sorta hard to see on the frame (Yamaha has a sh*tty way of stamping the VIN on there atv ) it's a 1991 , no mods done to this machine as far as I can tell - stock pipe, stock muffler, stock carb, oil injection tank still on, TORS still hooked up- that's pretty much it. I'm going to tear the carb apart and see if maybe it getting crap out of the tank although I have installed a in line filter, thank you for everyone's help
 
No Mods as far as I can see has been done or added to this machine, it has the stock exhaust/ muffler, stock carb and stock air box. Jetting appears to be stock and I'm checking the needle clip now. I just tore down the carb to see if maybe some crud from tank ( if any) has passed through the in line filter I installed. The bike will only idle and run with choke pulled out to the first notch, if I push the choke back in to the closed position motor stalls. I have completely cleaned tank and checked screen on fuel valve (Petcock) , added new clear tube fuel line from fuel valve ( petcock) to carb. I have tried the gas cap off the tank thinking maybe the bearther is pulled and no luck. I have installed a new NGK B8ES spark plug and just pulled it and it looks as if it's burning correctly. I'm just missing something, I buy non running motorcycles all the time and fix up and resell as a hobby so I feel that my skills are very good and have guys bring the MC's to me all the time.
 
Ok guys similar to the previous posts I have a question for the blaster masters here ?
I picked up an 01 blaster the other day that had a problem .. it starts first kick and runs decent it wasn't idling and also once you put it in gear and try and take off unless your coasting down hill it just acts like it's getting no gas and has no power ... once it pulls threw that it's fine in all the rest of the gears ,has plenty of power ... since then I've pulled the carb and cleaned it ... had a 230 main jet in (Fmf exhaust, aftermarket air filter with no air box lid) .. I put a 280 in and it ran like hammerd dog sh*t... no change in the way it takes off ??? Put the 230 back in and adjusted the throttle cable it idles now still takes off like sh*t but is good once you get going ??? Thoughts comments please?
 
Idle speed adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain
when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of
unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
if the air screw ends up being more than 2 1/2 turns out the pi;]lot is too big.
if the air screw is less than 1/2 a turn out the pilot is too small
 
Idle speed adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain
when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of
unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
if the air screw ends up being more than 2 1/2 turns out the pi;]lot is too big.
if the air screw is less than 1/2 a turn out the pilot is too small


Well it idles now but still has a very hard time taking off in first gear ... it runs great with lots of power once it gets moving but as soon as you pull in the clutch and drop it into first gear she has a hard time getting moving ... not so bad from a roll ... I'm going to do a compression test to rule that out ... also it starts on the first kick so that's why I've been delaying the compression test...
 
let it warm up longer.........
change gear oil
clutch may need adjusting or replaced
put new springs/steel and fiber plates/just get a kit and check basket for grooves
while you have it apart already:)