Wiring issues

i JACK

New Member
Sep 30, 2017
5
0
22
45
I traded a POS 300 ex for a 2006 blaster, 2001 blaster and 2 boxes full of brand new oem parts. On the 06 only the bare essentials are wired up. I would like to wire up key switch, kill switch and headlight but am lost. Tors, park brake and oil injection are bypassed. Also I have no idle screw in that tors BS.
Fairly proud of myself. I replaced the rear bearings and crankshaft seals today. Thanks you tube. Haha.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 
Key switch is black and black/white wires. Headlight is green, yellow and black. Green and brown wires, one controls the high beam one controls the low beam. This is all off the top of my head and not reading a wiring diagram. Do you have an 03-06 cdi? Large black box with a rubber sleeve around it. There should also be a small 1x1 or 2x2 small metal box that is your voltage regulator. That needs to be hooked up in order for lights to work. Also make sure all 5 wires are plugged into the stator. If the stator is a 4 wire from an 88-02 and not the 5 wire from 03-06 then earth the green 5th wire.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bummer981
Thank you both for the advice. I'm not good with following diagrams. Going to start maintenance again soon. Believe I have a bad reed. It's now hard to start and bogs badly. Sometimes it opens up.
 
Thank you both for the advice. I'm not good with following diagrams. Going to start maintenance again soon. Believe I have a bad reed. It's now hard to start and bogs badly. Sometimes it opens up.
Typically if you pull off your air filter and the bike doesn't bog and revs nicely its a sure sign of a bad or broken reed.
 
The reeds are in great shape. My issue was a partially clogged slow jet. She runs great in 1st through 5th gears. Losing some torque in 6th. Especially going uphill. I have the pilot turned 2 1/2 turns out. She's got a 240 main, stock carb. Tors delete. Stock exhaust. Bored .60 over. Next year I'm going .90 over. Already have the piston and rings for that. Also going to get a slip on exhaust. Probably fmf. Any suggestions on other mods I should put on?
 
The reeds are in great shape. My issue was a partially clogged slow jet. She runs great in 1st through 5th gears. Losing some torque in 6th. Especially going uphill. I have the pilot turned 2 1/2 turns out. She's got a 240 main, stock carb. Tors delete. Stock exhaust. Bored .60 over. Next year I'm going .90 over. Already have the piston and rings for that. Also going to get a slip on exhaust. Probably fmf. Any suggestions on other mods I should put on?
Why in the world would you want to go go from .060 over to .090 over? That does not mean 30cc more power, it does not mean you will get more power. What it does do is make your cylinder junk for the next rebuild. You never want to bore a cylinder unless it is needed. If it is needed you want to bore it as little as possible. You could get the cylinder measured and just get a new .060 piston and rings and a fresh hone if cylinder is within spec and be good. If not you would go to .070 over and a bore. Getting the largest piston available for a stock blaster cylinder is not what you want.
 
  • Like
Reactions: dirtysquared

l
l
Dead on. Boring a cylinder with the hopes of gaining power is a failed cause.

If your looking for a fast easy power increase, get the head rechambered.

Just putting a silencer isn't going to do much either. Look for a pipe that delivers usable power where you want it. Low, mid, top end.

You can pull all kind of power out of a blaster, and all of how to do it is on this forum.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DUALSTROKE
When I bought a second blaster it came with 2 boxes full of new parts. I have a stock piston and rings and a .90 over is the only reason. But if you suggest not doing so I'll stick with .60 or go to .70. I'm a little new to 2 strokes so any advice will be considered and respected. Thanks for the advice!