Transmission only shifting once per clutch pull

LaVernWinston

New Member
Feb 1, 2018
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Hello all, I’ve recently gotten my first Blaster/first quad altogether and I’m in the process of fixing everything up.

It runs just fine, but one thing that’s been throwing me off is I can only shift up or down one time with each clutch pull. For example, if I’m riding in 4th and have to stop abruptly, I’m unable to shift all the way down into 1st, I have to downshift/clutch out/downshift/clutch out each time. Other than that, going into gear is fine and the clutch seems good. This isn’t normal with a bike, is it normal with quads? Anybody have any ideas?
 
what have you tried so far?
have you tried changing oil
or adjusting clutch in anyway.?

I’m waiting on a gasket and hardware to come in before I crack it open. I haven’t really tried anything yet, just thought I’d throw the question out there in case somebody has seen this exact thing before. This is most likely a red flag that I should’ve added, but it looks like the previous owner lost some hardware and epoxied over portions of the crankcase(clutch cover?). It for sure looks like it has a slow leak, the whole cover is glazed over. The oil does look clean, but it’s likely that the seller just topped it off a bit before I got it. If it’s not the oil, is there something I should specifically check once I open it up? I’ve never messed with any form of a transmission before.
 
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Hopefully these two work. The epoxy job basically goes around the whole cover and three bolts are missing. I also can’t see any oil, just looked at the oil that was on the plug. Once the parts come in, I’ll get some photos of it opened up. Thanks for the links!
64C772F5-D1F7-468E-A75D-B7080F8E60F7.jpeg
D3F9C79C-9D49-4CB8-9EFD-AA38C9F71FDF.jpeg
love to see a pic of that got one? GOT PICS?
i posted this yesterday\/
it holds 650ml of oil which is about 3/4 of 1qt i hope it is not filled up to the hole lol
free manual service 1
it could be alot of things but if you are going to take clutch cover off lets wait till then:)
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads...ervice-and-owner-manuals-free-download.17325/
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/99-blaster-cant-shift-out-off-neutral.67007/#post-810166
 
Were you moving when trying to shift ? Most of the time you need to be moving in order to shift. Even when bench testing the trans one of the shafts has to be moving so that the dogs can line up.
 
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Were you moving when trying to shift ? Most of the time you need to be moving in order to shift. Even when bench testing the trans one of the shafts has to be moving so that the dogs can line up.

Yes, I was moving each time it’s happened. If I had enough room to stop, I could easily downshift and let off the clutch, but there were two times where I had to stop and didn’t have time to downshift and let off the clutch for each gear. So basically I’d be moving with clutch in and I’d only be able to shift down one time for each clutch pull. Both times, that left me stopped in a higher gear of course and I was unable to start from a stop in that higher gear.
 
Take a good look at the repair manual as to the external shift mechanism. Check adjustment and wear. Check shift star. If screw is loose, clean parts and use locktite. Inspect clutch basket and inner hub for wear/grooving. Be sure to adjust cluch, manual will show you how clutch goes together.
I see you just got it. Presume it has done it from the beginning??
You could have wrong oil. Worst case you would have to split the cases because of worn ahifs forks or burrs on the Gear dogs.
For the love all Blasters, clean it BEFORE SURGERY !!

Might consider pulling shift shaft and check for straightness. Clean before removal, one wrap of masking tape on splines to protect seal.
 
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yeah that needs some fixing:)
looks like it has a aftermarket cylinder vito's maybe?
and someone put the allen head bolts on there as well stock is a phillips head screw.
easy thing to do drain the oil and put 650ml in it then it is full:)
21.9791 ounces lol
it would be better if anything to take one of those bolts off the plastic cover for oil injection pump then to leave 1 off the clutch cover.It is probably stripped out if not just missing:)
 
yeah that needs some fixing:)
looks like it has a aftermarket cylinder vito's maybe?
easy thing to do drain the oil and put 650ml in it then it is full:)
21.9791 ounces lol

Yep I actually changed the oil today and used 650ml. I took it out and the problem seemed to go away. I’m still going to open it up to take a look and replace the gasket and hardware. The pdf you linked is way more helpful than my Haynes.

Also, I’m glad you noticed something different about the engine. I have no idea what’s aftermarket on this engine and what’s oem. I’m going to have to find a way to identify the carb size for a rebuild, whether the cylinder has been bored etc.
 
Take a good look at the repair manual as to the external shift mechanism. Check adjustment and wear. Check shift star. If screw is loose, clean parts and use locktite. Inspect clutch basket and inner hub for wear/grooving. Be sure to adjust cluch, manual will show you how clutch goes together.
I see you just got it. Presume it has done it from the beginning??
You could have wrong oil. Worst case you would have to split the cases because of worn ahifs forks or burrs on the Gear dogs.
For the love all Blasters, clean it BEFORE SURGERY !!

Might consider pulling shift shaft and check for straightness. Clean before removal, one wrap of masking tape on splines to protect seal.

I replaced the oil today and the problem seemed to go away so that’s good. I’m still waiting on the parts to come in so I can open everything up to look around. There was a fair amount of metal shavings on the drain plug so I know something in there is out of shape.
 
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the shavings are probably from the steel plates on clutch or clutch basket.
you should just put a clutch kit in it if you are going to open it up:)
it's only like what $40-$50 bucks for the kit= new steel/fibers/springs.
then file any grooves if any on the clutch basket:eek:
 
the shavings are probably from the steel plates on clutch or clutch basket.
you should just put a clutch kit in it if you are going to open it up:)
it's only like what $40-$50 bucks for the kit= new steel/fibers/springs.
then file any grooves if any on the clutch basket:eek:

I’ll order it up. Is there a preferred kit?

I kinda wanted to get a rebuild kit for everything (top end,bottom end,carb), but I don’t wanna push my limits just yet. It’s running pretty good except for the lower end of the powerband it seems (I guess jetting?). But for now, it’s running good enough to get me down all the trails.
 
i would not rebuild it unless it needs it oem parts are better then some aftermarket parts.
clutch\/
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/1999-blaster-clutch.66808/#post-808322
you can inspect top end compression signs of wear to piston cylinder/bottom end connecting rod tolerance
the lower rod bearing is most neglected and the case/main bearings:)
the stock carb is fine don't re-place it unless you gots alot of money and time/patience to tune a different carb that yamaha deemed suitableo_O
 
I’ll order it up. Is there a preferred kit?

I kinda wanted to get a rebuild kit for everything (top end,bottom end,carb), but I don’t wanna push my limits just yet. It’s running pretty good except for the lower end of the powerband it seems (I guess jetting?). But for now, it’s running good enough to get me down all the trails.

If it ain't broke don't fix it !! Clutch is a good idea. Unless you get a genuine Mikuni kit I wouldn't. Even at that unless you are bone stock you get new stock Jets. They don't wear out. The only thing that wears is seat/needle and O-ring on outside of seat. Sometimes the float may go bad. Only buy the parts you need.