tors removal diy cap.

Dec 14, 2015
33
7
44
34
So I've been searching and Noone has a diy cap for the the carb when you remove the tors. And me being cheap every penny counts and it seems iv made a new cap with the existing parts. That works. I'll have a better post with pictures tomorrow. But I just wanted to see what feedback I get. If you take the original cap and you can remove the brass center and then the silver cable end screws right into the old tors cap. Minus the useless block of crap. Iv been running this and it's worth the 40-65$ saved. If anyone has tried this I'd like to hear about it. And as I said I'll have a more detailed account of how to do this. Thanks!
 
Vito idle screw. Drilled and tapped it with my own tools.i just think why throw out something useful even if the tors is not so usefull. Anyone can do this within an hour and not spend a dime besides the 6$ screw that a lot of people think does nothing. Just getting off work I'll have pics up soon. Herpderplol , did you put an idle screw. And use your old cable
 
Vito idle screw. Drilled and tapped it with my own tools.i just think why throw out something useful even if the tors is not so usefull. Anyone can do this within an hour and not spend a dime besides the 6$ screw that a lot of people think does nothing. Just getting off work I'll have pics up soon. Herpderplol , did you put an idle screw. And use your old cable
Yes i ordered a banshee idle screw kit. has 2 screws. my brother and i split that
I ordered a new throttle cable because the old one doesnt have the right end on it
 
20151216_162544.jpg On the left is old cap. You remove the brass center threads. And once done as seen on the right the end of the cable that screws into the tors screws right into the cap once threads removed
 
I know this is an older post but did you end up purchasing a different throttle cable? How did you remove the slack and attach to the throttle slide?
 
Its the same cable. The cable has to rerouted to the left side. It has to be taken out of the loop and pulled out from under the tank. Then install outside of the loop on the left as if your standing in front of the bike. The adjuster on the thumb has to be pulled in all the way. The slack gets adjusted my the adjuster on the thumb. The cable has to be cut on the rounded part. Like cut it sideways. I'd have to take a picture to better understand
 
It's ok. No worries I have managed to do it already i grinded down the throttle cable end slightly on both sides nice and even to fit inside the clip with the gold colored clip as well. Put her all back together and she finally runs at regular rpms!!!! .......my tors idle was stripped out this whole time....now I'm getting so much smoke and bogs when I throttle her....I do believe its because now I have to drill and tap the new idle air screw.....cant i just drill a hole and tap it for the same size screw as the existing idle screw? Shes basically running on all fuel and no air....I do believe
 
You may need an idle screw if your cable is stretched. If it's not the the slack can be adjusted from the screw on the throttle
 
At the input of the thumb. You can adjust your idle there.the carb cap should be tight.

As far as bogging. That's the air fuel mixture screw. Nothing to do with the idle.
 
View attachment 31024 View attachment 31025
View attachment 25935 On the left is old cap. You remove the brass center threads. And once done as seen on the right the end of the cable that screws into the tors screws right into the cap once threads removed

I know this is an old post but I'm curious if anybody can elaborate on the removal of the brass center threads? The only way I could make an attempt at trying to follow the directions was to maybe knock the brass threaded tube out of the center of the cap, the one that has the flat alignment tab. That would then leave room for the tors end of the cable to thread into the brass female threaded part of the cap. The one that has the hex nut. then the actual threaded cap is screwed on to the carb leaving nothing holding the brass piece to the carb but the o-ring it slides over. I found an old carb I robbed the bowl and floats off of years ago that I was using to try to mock this up before I applied it to my good carb and this is why I got confused.
 

Attachments

  • 20170716_155320.jpg
    20170716_155320.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 470
  • 20170716_155816.jpg
    20170716_155816.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 454
I got nothing for this......because it's just too easy and cheap enough to buy a proper Tors delete kit w/ cap, cable and idle screw.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Markblaster