Runs better with air box lid off

Tavmonsta58

Member
May 15, 2017
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I have an 01 blaster, I've been trying to figure out a cause to bogging and slow return to idle after throttle blip. When I remove my air box lid I do not bog at all, which means I shouldn't have an an air leak, right? I've replaced throttle cable, cleaned carb many times, adjusted float and checked needle, throttle needle is on middle clip, air screw between 1 1/2-2 turns out, cleaned air filter, tors eliminated, 45:1 premix with amsoil dominator.. I just want to figure this thing out. Could the throttle slide be sticking? It seems to have some black residue all over the side of it which would explain why it takes so long to get back to idle after I rev. It also doesn't do it every time I blip the throttle, like every 2 or 3 times then the rpm's will stick around for about 5-10 seconds then return to normal idle.. Idles 100% fine as well. Also I should mention the throttle slide is usually covered in gas when I remove it.. Not sure if this is normal. I do not have a leak down tester and I wanna do everything I can before I get one. Any info/tips would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
-Evan
 
If it runs better when air has less restriction then you jetting could be too rich.

It would pay to do a plug chop to confirm the jetting.

Also a pre mix of 45:1 will tend to make for more fuel to enter the air stream.

Just by altering to the tried and true 32:1 ratio may just fix the problem.
 
Yes 32-1 ratio is better, 45-1 is too lean and make sure to use pure gas No Ethenol!
 
Sorry I have not been on in a while, thank you for the replies. Well I've ordered a carb rebuild kit and the hanging rpm' was caused by the needle worn out and sticking open and letting too much gas in. Now I still have top end bogging and gas coming out of overflow. I was told my carb is stock but when I measured the intake side it was about 30-32mm.. A stock carb is supposed to be between 20-21.5 mm high and I have it set at about 22 thinking it was stock so it would let less gas in but there's still gas coming out, not much either but enough to make me think it's the cause for top end bogging. My conclusions are I'm running too rich, the carb is getting too much gas robbing my top end power and causing it to come out of overflow, also note blaaster how I mentioned I run better with air box lid off. Or my last conclusions are my reeds have tiiiny spaces, nothing major they are in pretty good condition, or my float has a leak or is bent. I can upload pictures later if you would like. Sorry for all the typing, just trying to let you know as much as possible without being here for yourself. Any info is appreciated. Thank you though, I appreciate the replies.
-Evan
 
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Actually I measured wrong. My tape measure has 32 little lines between every inch and I was thinking they were mm.. My mistake. Carb is actually 28 mm and my float was waay off like 18mm.. Just adjusted to 21.5-22 mm and about to give her a go, I'll get back with the results
 
Well definitely had a difference in power, but top end of gears still bog a bit and still have some gas coming out of overflow but not nearly as much. Now to pull the carb again and adjust a bit higher, just love playing this game! Lol :)



So I re adjusted higher, muuch better difference in power, barely any gas coming out. Looks like I'll have to pull carb one more time and adjust just a bit higher and hopefully it is resolved..
 
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Take off carb, take qtip and some toothpaste, just a little <clean and polish brass seat. Check needle for groove. Conclusion - no groove needles is usable if it has a groove must replace it. Set float height with carb upside dead level across it. This will be parallel to to bowl mounting surface reinstall bowl, and reinstall carb