Running lean or rich?? *Pics*

[Mac_49]

So I finally got the Toomey B-1 installed on the stock blaster and after reading multiple threads decided to buy the 310 320 & 330 jets. I only installed the 310 the quad seems to run very well through the whole range of rpms but figured I'd get some input from the forum before I go hauling away on this thing. Ok so the way this is set up is after installing the jet and letting it warm up a lil bit, i ran it up and down the block hard and killed it at the highest rpm basically. I coasted in and right away pulled the plug. The pictures are the best i can get which aren't bad but hope they give enough for some input. With that being said, since i'm only running the 310 is there any possible risk im running with damaging anything if I really need the 320 or 330? It runs great but i dont want it to be to lean and burn something up.

Anyways here's the link to the pics and let me know what you think. I need answers soon because we'll be riding over the weekend and I want to get this set up right.

Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket

 

[Blaaster]

Cannot tell from those pics as you have not cut the threads off.

Do another one following the instructions below.

Plug chop.

Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/

This is a good to go plug.

This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.

 

[Mac_49]

Never just completely cut off thread on a spark plug lol...just use a hacksaw or what's the best way to cut them?

 

[joeak47]

Mac_49, Please give us some better pictures of the plugs. Do the plug chop too. Oil injection will give a different look to the plugs,so give it a chop to see inside. Nice looking blaster. I was always a fan of the red and white.

JUST A HEADS UP.... Be forewarned that most people are going to tell you to remove your oil injection system because they claim its not reliable,or breaks all the time,etc,etc. That is completely incorrect and false, and not to mention bias,and based mostly on opinion and not facts.

I'm a proponent (big fan) of the yamaha "Auto Lube" oil injection system and run it on all my blasters. The oldest being a 91 with more hours than I can count,and zero issues.

You are going to really enjoy that pipe. Very well made. It works very well across the rpm range.

 

[Mac_49]

I'll see what I can get done this weekend with the jets...if anything, if it's running a little bit lean and I fatten it out by adding a measured amount of oil on the gas tank to balance out the ratio so it doesnt burn up?

 

[joeak47]

I'll see what I can get done this weekend with the jets...if anything, if it's running a little bit lean and I fatten it out by adding a measured amount of oil on the gas tank to balance out the ratio so it doesnt burn up?

Adding oil will make it run leaner,because there will be even less fuel flowing through the main jet.I know that sounds weird and incorrect,but trust me. I think your right in the ball park of where you should be already. I really do. Its harder to read a plug with oil injection,compared with premix. I'll post a picture of the spark plug from my wife's bone stock blaster.That should help.

Questions...
are you running with the air box lid on? If so,is that rubber air horn still on the lid?

What I would do is this...
I would start out "fat" using the 330 jet and see how it runs. If it feels an sounds like its "gurgling" and you can't get it to rev up,then its rich,and you will need to jet leaner. Next go with the 320 jet. Does this improve it and make it run better and rev up with no burbling and gurgling? If it does,then your really close to where you want to be. I like to start off safe and fat,then work my way down untill it runs like it should.

 

[Mac_49]

Adding oil will make it run leaner,because there will be even less fuel flowing through the main jet.I know that sounds weird and incorrect,but trust me. I think your right in the ball park of where you should be already. I really do. Its harder to read a plug with oil injection,compared with premix. I'll post a picture of the spark plug from my wife's bone stock blaster.That should help.

Questions...
are you running with the air box lid on? If so,is that rubber air horn still on the lid?

What I would do is this...
I would start out "fat" using the 330 jet and see how it runs. If it feels an sounds like its "gurgling" and you can't get it to rev up,then its rich,and you will need to jet leaner. Next go with the 320 jet. Does this improve it and make it run better and rev up with no burbling and gurgling? If it does,then your really close to where you want to be. I like to start off safe and fat,then work my way down untill it runs like it should.

That picture will hopefully help a lot.
I currently do NOT have the air box lid on it. It was removed when I bought it so it'll stay off. I know it runs great right now with no problems but if anything i'll maybe go bass akwards with what you suggested?...i'll jump to the 320 and if it acts worse than before I'll surely have my answer and not even bother going to the 330. Thanks again for all of your help.

 

[joeak47]

I need you to do this before you start comparing pictures...
You need to go get that spark plug and spray it with some carb cleaner,or brake clean to get the oil off. Now blow it off with compressed air to make sure it dry. DO NOT BRUSH IT or RUB IT WITH YOUR FINGERS. The carb cleaner will remove the shiny oil,and show you what it really looks like.

In this picture my wifes stock blaster's spark plug was cleaned as stated above. The picture was taken outside under natural daylight on an overcast day with NO FLASH.

Here's the same plug lit up under a 800 watt halogen movie light and no flash...

Here are your spark plug pictures with the shiny oil on them...

I believe that you are where you want to be,but get that oil off first and lets compare.
You have more deposits on that plug than mine,but that can be attributed to the oil your using. You might be a bit on the rich side if I was to give an honest assesment,but that keeps it safe.

Reading plugs can be tough,but I do not see a white insulator (lean).Thats a good thing. I've always read plugs the old fashioned way by looking at them under bright light. If you can get the light in there,you can do a pretty good job of reading the "Smoke ring" without having to cut it up.

 

[Mac_49]

I need you to do this before you start comparing pictures...
You need to go get that spark plug and spray it with some carb cleaner,or brake clean to get the oil off. Now blow it off with compressed air to make sure it dry. DO NOT BRUSH IT or RUB IT WITH YOUR FINGERS. The carb cleaner will remove the shiny oil,and show you what it really looks like.

In this picture my wifes stock blaster's spark plug was cleaned as stated above. The picture was taken outside under natural daylight on an overcast day with NO FLASH.

I went and bought a couple new plugs today so i'll just swap out the old....put new in...run the tests and then compare. Just by looking at what you have shown me so far (and remember i'm no mechanic here) it looks like they're close? But we'll see what a new plug has in store for me. Saturday might be the day i post results so keep checking to see what happens.
Thanks sooooo much guys!

 

[joeak47]

No problem. I don't see you on the lean side at all, right where your at.
Put a new plug in there and to the test as Blaaster described.

Just use a hack saw to cut it. A cut off wheel in a grinder does wonders too.

 

[Mac_49]

So here's the results....first off I'm not even going to post the 310 jet...the spark plug barely even changed color at all if any so i'm leaving him out of the results. Ok so guys i know you swear and swear with the plug chop but i think i'm so close enough to perfect that i didn't need to do that. The 320 ran pretty good and as you'll see by the pictures was pretty close to the right color. Once i put teh 330 in you could tell i hit the sweet spot. There was a noticable "feeling" of better all around power that i was very happy with. It wasn't an extreme measure of power but you "just know"

Anyways these are the pics...i tried to get the best pictures i could without cutting threads...

Spark plugs pictures by Maclain_07 - Photobucket

And again sorry...I'm still having troubles figuring out the embedding on here so bare with me.

 

[MixnGasHaulnAss]

Hello guys, yes first post, been researching everyones experiences on here, some awesome info.

My findings were the same as yours, 330 ran great. Put a 340 in and didn't notice any drop in power and theres a bit of smoke now didn't have any with the 330. Thats just me being cautious. Way to play it safe and do your own testing ! Our needle is 3rd groove with an extra washer from the hardware store. Makes it more like 3.5 position, pulls great and never loads up on the kiddo.

 

[Blaaster]

Just click on the image code on photobucket and it will copy, then paste into the text window and hey presto.

Cannot tell anything with those plug pics, it has to be a new plug and the threads must be cut off so a smoke ring can be seen.

Plug chop.

Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.

http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/

This is a good to go plug.

This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.