Problem Revving

Hunter51

New Member
Jul 6, 2017
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I just put in a new top end, carburator, coil pack, sparkplug, and boysen power reeds on a 89 blaster. We did heat cycles and then rode it around. It was running great and never had any problems. Then a few days ago I started riding it. It only takes one kick with no problems and I start riding it but once it gets warmed up I can't go more than about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle without it bogging down. I tried the airscrew on the side of the carb but it didn't do anything. Everything else is stock and I jumped out the tors.
Is it a problem with the jetting?
Running too rich or lean?

Any help would be appreciated.
 
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I'm feeling some frustration because you are there and could look at some things like 1) that new plug? Is it showing rich or lean?

It was running great? Before all the new parts? Or after the new parts and suddenly changed?
 
Hi. I'm new to the site and been trolling through threads and found this. I have also just rebuilt my blaster. Wiseco crankshaft assembly. Drc clutch kit. High output stator. Pro circuit system. Boyesen dual stage reeds. I got a German cylinder and piston kit and it's a 225cc made by "airsal". Heavily ported with three channels exiting the exhaust side. I have the stock carb but I put a 28mm round slide mikuni on instead as it's slightly bigger. I have hand full of jets but they r very confusing I have the stock 230. And I have an fmf kit which contains a 210 220, 350 360 and a needle to go with. The fmf needle doesn't kit the bigger carb but the main jets do. Where do I start ? If anybody has any advice it would be greatly appreciated. I'm only 20-30 metres above sea level and average temps are around 20-23'c. Iv heat cycled the engine and after three heat cycles it started putting out a lot of white smoke and smelt funny which made me think oil seal so after a short ride it's stopped smoking but I have no idea about where to start with jetting
 
Hi. I'm new to the site and been trolling through threads and found this. I have also just rebuilt my blaster. Wiseco crankshaft assembly. Drc clutch kit. High output stator. Pro circuit system. Boyesen dual stage reeds. I got a German cylinder and piston kit and it's a 225cc made by "airsal". Heavily ported with three channels exiting the exhaust side. I have the stock carb but I put a 28mm round slide mikuni on instead as it's slightly bigger. I have hand full of jets but they r very confusing I have the stock 230. And I have an fmf kit which contains a 210 220, 350 360 and a needle to go with. The fmf needle doesn't kit the bigger carb but the main jets do. Where do I start ? If anybody has any advice it would be greatly appreciated. I'm only 20-30 metres above sea level and average temps are around 20-23'c. Iv heat cycled the engine and after three heat cycles it started putting out a lot of white smoke and smelt funny which made me think oil seal so after a short ride it's stopped smoking but I have no idea about where to start with jetting
 
as you see, jet kits are bunk ! and rarely have the jets you need, buy them individually.
FMF pipes usually require main jets in the 270 - 310 range with the stock carb/engine, you may need slightly more
I'd buy 300 thru 330 mains, start large and plug chop down.

plug chop.... http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-plug-chop.53237/
 
Awesome thanks for helping. Il see if I can Find some jets that size tomorrow. Since posting I swapped the carb back to stock and followed the fmf trouble shooting page and fitted their needle on the third groove and the 360 jet with no air box lid and it's better but still splutters on mid range. Is it a good idea for me to run no lid in sandy terrain ? And what rev range does the main jet control ? Thanks again
 
I have a stock blaster that was just rebuilt. Anyone know what can cause the oil seal to go out? ( I just put brand new ones in
 
I have a stock blaster that was just rebuilt. Anyone know what can cause the oil seal to go out? ( I just put brand new ones in

is the vent hose open to free air ?
it runs from the case nipple near the oil fill cap, across above the carb, up that frame rail to under the hood.
it must be open or pressure will build in the trans and blow the seals.
 
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is the vent hose open to free air ?
it runs from the case nipple near the oil fill cap, across above the carb, up that frame rail to under the hood.
it must be open or pressure will build in the trans and blow the seals.
Does it stick out about 1/2 inch on the case?
 
is the vent hose open to free air ?
it runs from the case nipple near the oil fill cap, across above the carb, up that frame rail to under the hood.
it must be open or pressure will build in the trans and blow the seals.
Yep. I plugged it off because I thought it went to the oil pump. Call me a dumb ass now lol. I appreciate the help