Looking for some help

[Blaster2017]

Got a 2000 Blaster and the previous owner left it in a bit of a piece of work. Chain apparently fell off, transmission and axle sprockets are worn out and need replacing, he had cut the rear rack off for whatever reason and just zip tied the brake light on the frame, clutch cover is missing a bolt, to me the swing arm nylock nut is on backwards (unless the nylon is supposed to be facing the inside rather than be outside), oil reservoir was full of oil. I have emptied the oil res, and haven't added any oil (Not sure what oil I can use, besides Yamahalube) and haven't started it, would prefer to clean out the carburetor before I attempt to start it.

I've never driven a motorcycle or dirt bike, so I'm new to riding something with a manual transmission like this. I have ridden atvs before with CVTs. Besides Yamaha Lube, what oil can I safely use in this engine that I can pick up more easily? Shops around me are closed on Sundays and I don't get off early enough during the week some days (usually 6 or later in the evening). Both the sprockets are warn, the transmission sprocket is a 13 tooth and rear is a 40 tooth so I'll have to replace those or lose a chain fast.

This is my first ATV I've ever had so this is new territory for me, so my apologies for stupid questions. I'd rather not screw something up.

 

[bummer981]

You can use any two stroke oil intended for oil injection systems. Replace the chain with the sprockets, as they need to be changed as a set.

The missing bolts can be easily replaced, just bring one to the hardware store to match the length a thread pitch.

Stock parts can be had for cheap on E-bay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Z3-11-REAR-...ash=item3ae296d8b9:g:7bAAAOSwjqVZBjAy&vxp=mtr

 

[Blaster2017]

You can use any two stroke oil intended for oil injection systems. Replace the chain with the sprockets, as they need to be changed as a set.

The missing bolts can be easily replaced, just bring one to the hardware store to match the length a thread pitch.

Stock parts can be had for cheap on E-bay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Z3-11-REAR-...ash=item3ae296d8b9:g:7bAAAOSwjqVZBjAy&vxp=mtr

With the oil does that mean one that is usually mixed with gas would work as well? If that's the case then I have oil for an outboard that could work.

To me, the nylon lock but for the swing arm is upside down, with the nylon facing inwards towards the swing arm, is that the proper orientation, or is it supposed to be facing outwards?

 

[blasterboy91]

Chain apparently fell off, transmission and axle sprockets are worn out and need replacing

As mentioned above, replace sprockets/chain as a set.

clutch cover is missing a bolt

Go online to cascade.com and buy yourself new stainless steel Alan head bolts for both clutch/stator side. Maybe $15

oil reservoir was full of oil. I have emptied the oil res, and haven't added any oil (Not sure what oil I can use, besides Yamahalube)

The reservoir was supposed to be full of oil. 2 stroke oil at least. It's a self lubricating pump. Run it like so if you wish. Otherwise, delete it and mix your fuel in a jug.

Besides Yamaha Lube, what oil can I safely use in this engine that I can pick up more easily?

This is personal preference. Castor 927, yamalube, klotz. Plenty of options.

 

[Blaster2017]

As mentioned above, replace sprockets/chain as a set.




Go online to cascade.com and buy yourself new stainless steel Alan head bolts for both clutch/stator side. Maybe $15






The reservoir was supposed to be full of oil. 2 stroke oil at least. It's a self lubricating pump. Run it like so if you wish. Otherwise, delete it and mix your fuel in a jug.




This is personal preference. Castor 927, yamalube, klotz. Plenty of options.

The bike has been sitting for about 2 years, so I doubt is any good. Drained it anyway just to be safe.

 

[blasterboy91]

I have you the wrong website for bolts. Try here.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/928/466/Cascade-Clutch-Case-Bolts

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/928/472/Cascade-Stator-Case-Bolts?v=234

Those are clutch/stator bolts respectfully.


I know it shows for a Banshee, but change the bike to a Blaster. I'm logged into my account when I posted those!

 

[bummer981]

The nylon should be facing out, with the flat part of the nut inside.

 

[Blaster2017]

The nylon should be facing out, with the flat part of the nut inside.

What is the torque spec for those? 100ft/lbs?

 

[speedyslyder]

What is the torque spec for those? 100ft/lbs?

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads...ervice-and-owner-manuals-free-download.17325/

 

[Blaster2017]

So looking at the rear sprockets, noticed they are 7075-T6 aluminum, do they last about as long as steel sprockets? When I get a new chain, are they pre lubed or do I need to soak it in a chain oil?

 

[Larry's Shee]

So looking at the rear sprockets, noticed they are 7075-T6 aluminum, do they last about as long as steel sprockets? When I get a new chain, are they pre lubed or do I need to soak it in a chain oil?

Alum sprockets don't last near as long as steel, especially on a quad.

 

[Blaster2017]

Alum sprockets don't last near as long as steel, especially on a quad.

Thought so. Hopefully I can get good steel sprockets then.

 

[Tankbuster]

Download the service manual first. This is my first Blaster (1988), They are not as complicated as they seem. I recently replaced the top end, reed cage, carb and various components and it still runs today. (just kicked it yesterday for a small run) Just take your time follow the directions. This forum has helped me in a jam quite a bit. Oh! by the way, there are not any stupid questions! We are all here for the same thing.
-Tank-

 

[Blaster2017]

Where do i find the VIN or any similar number set on this? Previous owner cannot locate the title to get it transferred and needs the numbers so they can request a new title. Is there a plate on the frame somewhere?

 

[speedyslyder]

it is on the frame by foot shifter....

 

[Blaster2017]

Well 90% success today. Rebuild the carb and cleaned it out. Bit corroded or something in it. The jets were junked up and the bowl was also just as bad. Soaked the bowl for an hour in carb cleaned but wad still fairly green, even after taking a couple towels and going at it. After I got the carb back on and hooked the air intake back on it, started it up and it went. Though it does need partial choke to keep it going. Also did what I could on the air screw, may need a bit more adjustment on that.

Now when I turn the fuel switch to on or reserve, fuel comes out of the side tubes that are pointed down to the ground, like a constant stream. No idea why, maybe I messed up something while rebuilding the carb?

Now I did drive it around a bit. Got it to second gear and went to the stop sign maybe 300 feet away. Well I grabbed the clutch so I could down shift back to 1st so I could turn around, but I stalled it like an idiot...in my defense this is the first 4 wheeler I've driven with a manual gear box, and I've stalled out cars and trucks with manual transmissions so I need more practice. But I got it turned around and drove back to the house. Want to get more time behind it before I'm comfortable posting a video of me riding it. But I can tell you, I had a large grin on my face while driving it. So far my impressions are very good, and for now with a manual gear box, I wouldn't want anything larger. Now granted I've been on quads with CVTs that were 400cc, and I like those. Until I'm better use to the shifting I'm sticking with this 200cc.

Not going to do an engine swap with it. But I'm going to want to get either bushings for the clutch and brake handles, since they have a ton of verticle slop. Need to get a new helmet, as the helmets we have are well over 20 years old (they recommend replacing every 5 years I believe), proper boots at least.

 

[speedyslyder]

it is the needle and seat
or float height is not set correct.
or there is a hole in 1 of the floats making it sink/not float
you could try cleaning it/adjusting it or replacing it.
not sure if you did replace it?
there is ways of checking the float's stopping fuel flow to the bowl with carb off the quad but search that on youtube,or the world wide web.
it is also in the free manual on the forum
link i posted in above post.
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/easy-and-almost-free-way-to-stop-leaky-carbs.33335/

 

[Blaster2017]

Both the main and secondary jets were replaced, air screw was also replaced. I did not see any cracks or holes in the floats. I did pull the pin out of the floats, so it's possible that is holding them in a way where they may not have any free movement and are stuck in one position.

I'll have to try that trick and clean out that spot with a q-tip and clean out the bowl better. Maybe double check the floats as well. Ill say this, the carb is a huge pain to take off and put on. Biggest pain is getting the air intake to slide back on the carb.

 

[Blaster2017]

Maybe there's a section for this or this is against the rules, if so my apologies but I'm in a bit of a potential rut. So the previous owners we bought the quad from have not started the process of getting a new title from Wisconsin yet and it's been a month now. The other part of the problem is, it sounds as though when they bought it back in 2003, they never had the title transferred to their name from the dealer. So what can we do in our position? Do we end up losing it? Is it possible for us to request a title?

 

[Markblaster]

Man I am glad I don't have that title crap over here. Sounds like a lot of pain in the butt.