i need a jetting estimate

[Blasterkid16]

Hi all, I have a 2001 blasty and i need to rejet my carb as of now i have stock 230 main jet
mods:
full Fmf header and silencer (have not installed yet due to stock jetting)
open air box w/moose racing air filter
putting in boyesen carbon fiber reeds on stock cage
i don't belive there was any porting done on cylinder
stock head
tors eliminator kit
oil injection blocked off
premix 32:1 good quality oil

I live in the new england area and i am right around 50- 100 feet above sea level
i ride year round so temps can range from 10 degrees Fahrenheit to 80's or 90's fahrenheit

I'm 16 and am very mechanically inclined thanks to my dad and a lot of research about two strokes i've rebuild a few bikes and they still run great thanks to you guys but jetting has always confused me thats why I haven't messed with it till now so if you guys could give me a range of jets to buy that would be great.

 

[Larry's Shee]

Main 260
Pilot 32.5
Needle third clip
These are for stock engine, 0-1500' elevation, 70* , no snorkel
So, I would start at 310 main stock pilot, needle middle clip.
Search this forum for how to do a plug chop. You need to do it to know if jetting is correct.
Being a little rich than lean. Start rich and work your way down. Get 310 down to 280. Keep track of the temp

 

[Blaaster]

This is the process of confirming that you are using the correct carb settings
for a efficient and healthy engine…
the process can be done at wide open throttle to confirm the main jet or at
1/2 to 3/4 to confirm the needle position.
Contrary to public belief one cannot alter the tune of a carb above 1/4
throttle by changing the air screw setting. The pilot jet and air screw setting
has little to no affect on the AFR above 1/4 throttle.
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is
correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system,
otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new maker specified plug, ride WOT ( or 1/2 to 3/4 throttle for the needle
) through the gears and hold that throttle opening in 5th or 6th gear for 10
seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the ignition and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop
quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the
insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger
main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is
worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon. You have
to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the engine to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get
onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.

 

[Blasterkid16]

What is the float height supposed to be

 

[speedyslyder]

you are right in the other thread

 

[Blasterkid16]

Right now mine is at 23mm to finally get it to stop leaking

 

[Blaaster]

Right now mine is at 23mm to finally get it to stop leaking

Twiddle a Q tip dipped in toothpaste in the seat the needle sits in.

You possibly have a buildup of varnish there which is not allowing the needle to stem the fuel flow.

 

[blasterbrian]

Are you measuring with the gasket off?