it looks evil because correct me if i am wrong but isnt his blaster a special edition?
and WOT means wide open throttle
How To 'Break In' a Two Stroke MUST be done after a top end rebuild
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it looks evil because correct me if i am wrong but isnt his blaster a special edition?
and WOT means wide open throttle
Do not double your oil, the more oil you add to gas the leaner the burn. You can actully burn up a two stroke by adding to much oil.
Ex... 50:1 would make the bike run richer b/c of the gas to air ratio then say...28:1. The more oil you add to gas, the more you delute it. Meaning the machine will have less gas to burn. Its the gas that cools and lubes a two stroke, not the oil.
Conventinal run 32:1 ,Synthetic is fine at 50:1 lightly modded engines.
Never use synthetic durning breakin. Use cheap generic oil to help the rings seat.
do i need to do this if im not replacing anything in the top end. just had it apart?
i know well enuf to take it easy on her untill i know shes tweeked. plus ima run 20:1 for a minute.
i know well enuf to take it easy on her untill i know shes tweeked. plus ima run 20:1 for a minute.
mix it at 32:1 and break in is more determined on bore finish, todays hones leave a much finer cross hatch and is not as deep as they were back in the day, if you have proper piston to wall clearance and if its a forged piston just make sure you get everything up to temp. on average if you take a proper set-up top end and rode it easy for 10 minutes then let it completely cool down re-torque the head and base then look out show me the starting line.
ok, so you cannot "burn up" a two stroke by adding too much oil. yes, it does cause a leaner condition, but the oil is not only a better lubricant, but it is also flammable. The only good thing about more oil is better lubrication, but it provides a dirtier burn. It is a good idea to run 16:1 on the break in, because there will be shavings on these new rings, and on your crosshatch wearing down. The only thing that too much oil could do is burn dirtier, and cause the engine to run poorly if there is so little gas that theres not much to burn. which would become a problem at like 4:1
32 to 1 is more than enough oil, at 16 to 1 that motor would be smokin hot, gas cools the motor oil lubes the bearings at 16 to 1 there is not enough gas to cool the motor so yes you can burn up a motor with to much oil, it displaces the gas causes the viscosity of the gas to be more like syrup than gas and leans the motor which is exactly what burns them up, there is no shavings from the rings, thats what I meant in my previous post the micro finishes are shallow so ring seating takes very little time. most rings are chrome and wear very little that is why you bore cylinders because they wear out not the rings.
ok, i worded that wrong, the rings themselves will not leave shavings, but they will be pushing at the crosshatch and wearing it off, change the oil of any freshly broke-in four stroke, there will always be shavings in the filter.
16:1 is not going to hurt dispersion, the carb is all for turning the gas into a mist, and like i said, oil will not affect that mist until you get to about 4:1, sh*ts easy to spread because when the piston is coming down, there is pressure pushing the mixture out of the crankcase and into the combustion chamber. the human hand wouldnt even be able to tell the difference in viscosity.
16:1 is not going to hurt dispersion, the carb is all for turning the gas into a mist, and like i said, oil will not affect that mist until you get to about 4:1, sh*ts easy to spread because when the piston is coming down, there is pressure pushing the mixture out of the crankcase and into the combustion chamber. the human hand wouldnt even be able to tell the difference in viscosity.
i bought my raptor brand new, do i have to do a break in? doesnt say anything about break in,just normal check ups every ____ hours/month/kilometers
4-stroke is alot different it use the same oil in the trans and the motor, but back to the cross hatch you are correct a long time ago, but then in 1965 Yamaha said to run shell 10w30 motor oil in the injector too, the reason spark arrestors came out was because there was no such thing as 2 stroke oil we used 10w30 they smoked and stunk but that is what we had, the cinders would come off the tops of pistons that was red hot chunks of 30 weight oil, you couldn't get a 2 stroke today to burn a forest down but back in the day you could, Kawasaki done a huge test on HP to oil ratio and they found that they got the most HP out of like a 102 to 1 oil ratio and thought the motor would last 1 race but it was about throttle response do to the viscosity of the fuel the least amount of oil the quicker the response, but the cost of replacing parts made it prohibitive.
well, on the first startup your supposed to do a procedure (i recommend following the manual on this one) but if you've ran it for more than a couple hours it wont do any good now.
no harm done, just, next top end i would do that.
good post axo959. ive used something very similar to that without any problems. in my opinion you must have a load on the engine. just my opinion though.
One day when youve melted down a couple motors you'll realize how important this is !!!!!!!
Hey great how-to I am doing a bunch of work to my 89 blaster and this is perfect thanks so much !! the work is new piston and rings, shearer exhaust, v force3 reeds, new clutch, port n polish, machined head, new o ring chain, front and rear sprocket(my dad knows the gearing im not sure haha ) , 400 ex rear suspension, and a couple other things i cant think of right now .
i break in the 2 strok slightly different than a 4, my yfz450, i warmed it up fully, and literly rode how i normally would right from the start, my stupid ass manual says to break it in and take it easy for 20 hours, no joke. this will not cause a good seal for the rings, blow by will occur, and this is not good for 4 strokes, contaminated oil and less power etc. my bike runs extremely well, in short dont listen to the manual. they want your bike to break down earlier. funny how lots of people say take it easy while you break it in, thats a joke, i know this isnt a perfect comparison, but on chainsaws trimmers, etc etc, you mix the oil, start it up and start cutting some dam trees down full throttle right off the bat, guess what, those chainsaws last forever!!!! even with hard breakins, ive worked on them i know. the best thing you can do is warm up the bike fully before every ride and mix the oil at around 32:1 and have it tuned right.
laff, "dont listen to the manual" have fun with that, if its your preference to not break your bike in right fine, but i know im going to follow the procedure to the letter.
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