Gusset Placement With Diagram.

PikledBeats

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Apr 19, 2010
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So this last winter when I gusseted my frame, I had ordered a kit from Tarantula and although some of the gussets worked, I remade others (fully custom) to fit around nerfs and mods etc. I ended up only using a few of the TPR gussets and in the end the ones I built myself worked much better and stronger. I thought to myself that if I ever gusset another frame I would make all gussets myself.

I figured others would also like to do the same, so I have scanned the following diagram to show all you where your frame should be gusseted. This is a good diagram and IMO the only place that you might want to gusset besides what is shown, is the backside of the top steering stem mount. I would also suggest that gussets be cut out of 1/4 inch heat treated steel. You can see pics in my build in sig but for the DIY here is a gusset diagram as promised.

Edit: As suggested by a few members: the strongest way to gusset is to use unbent tubing like frame, also some suggest gusseting between rear frame rails.

28ti51f.jpg
 
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are these frames really that weak that they need tobe strengthened? just wondering

Yes, especially when widening through A-Arms spacers, swingarm, etc.

The subframe is notoriously weak, I have bent one and only weigh 165.

Gussets are cheap and easy to make and install if you have access to welder, if you are going to mod why would you not want to strengthen.
 
It really depends on the use. Momentum is the single biggest factor in frame cracks and bends.

The more G forces the frame has to arrest, the more likely it is to crack. If you do jumps or ride your blaster like you stole it, you can crack or bend your frame. If most of your riding (even hard riding) is flat and level the frame doesn't take as much shock and probably won't crack or bend.
 
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It really depends on the use. Momentum is the single biggest factor in frame cracks and bends.

The more G forces the frame has to arrest, the more likely it is to crack. If you do occasional jumps or ride your blaster like you stole it, you can crack or bend your frame. If most of your riding (even hard riding) is flat and level the frame doesn't take as much shock and probably won't crack or bend.

I agree, but I stand behind gusseting if you are going wider
 
So this last winter when I gusseted my frame, I had ordered a kit from Tarantula and although some of the gussets worked, I remade others (fully custom) to fit around nerfs and mods etc. I ended up only using a few of the TPR gussets and in the end the ones I built myself worked much better and stronger. I thought to myself that if I ever gusset another frame I would make all gussets myself.

I figured others would also like to do the same, so I have scanned the following diagram to show all you where your frame should be gusseted. This is a good diagram and IMO the only place that you might want to gusset besides what is shown, is the backside of the top steering stem mount. I would also suggest that gussets be cut out of 1/4 inch heat treated steel. You can see pics in my build in sig but for the DIY here is a gusset diagram as promised.

Edit: As suggested by a few members: the strongest way to gusset is to ut tubing like frame, also some suggest gusseting between rear frame rails.

28ti51f.jpg
don't know if you know but I had a problem with ours braking at gas tank area right under the to bolts were the gas tank mounts I also gussesd there
 
So this last winter when I gusseted my frame, I had ordered a kit from Tarantula and although some of the gussets worked, I remade others (fully custom) to fit around nerfs and mods etc. I ended up only using a few of the TPR gussets and in the end the ones I built myself worked much better and stronger. I thought to myself that if I ever gusset another frame I would make all gussets myself.

I figured others would also like to do the same, so I have scanned the following diagram to show all you where your frame should be gusseted. This is a good diagram and IMO the only place that you might want to gusset besides what is shown, is the backside of the top steering stem mount. I would also suggest that gussets be cut out of 1/4 inch heat treated steel. You can see pics in my build in sig but for the DIY here is a gusset diagram as promised.

Edit: As suggested by a few members: the strongest way to gusset is to use unbent tubing like frame, also some suggest gusseting between rear frame rails.


This is something that I should of done during my build, but will get done over winter this year. Haven't had a problem with cracks or anything, but I also haven't looked for any. Can't hurt to do! I don't race so worring about weight isn't an issue. I agree though that as it may not be necessary for all riders, but if you have the tolls and knowledge to do it why not, it may just save you ass when you decide to hit that monster jump!
 
Thanks for the picture. Good info. Here's an interesting old thread that has some differing points of view and a few pictures. If anyone copied Phragle's picture could you post it up. Might be a good addition to a gusset project. I'm doing one now and would like to combine as many good ideas as possible.... http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-where-gusset-frame-11474/

I would have to disagree with phragle that there is only two places it needs gusseted, just an opinion, but glad you posted and added.

I have seen, and as heard, there are many places a blaster frame can crack/break/bend
 
I would have to disagree with phragle that there is only two places it needs gusseted

My thoughts too, but I would like to add the ones like his also. I'm sure I can do them from his discripton but the picture would be a nice reference.
Thanks again for the thread ... + rep
 
My thoughts too, but I would like to add the ones like his also. I'm sure I can do them from his discripton but the picture would be a nice reference.
Thanks again for the thread ... + rep

Thx...just trying to update info etc. but as kinda a newbie it's nice to see the older threads linked as well
 
IMO it's missing 2 . On each side of the lower a-arms u need a plate from rail to rail. It likes to twist the frame there. U can see the bars in this pic
DSC04539.jpg
 
IMO it's missing 2 . On each side of the lower a-arms u need a plate from rail to rail. It likes to twist the frame there.


Good call and add. I:I The TPR diagram is by no means an end all be all just thought it would help some. You definitely have the MX experience to be commenting on this one.
 
Jim the owner of diamond racing made a good recommendation to me when I was gusseting up my frame. Most people who race or ride hard take the swing-arm pivot bolt out a good bit. The majority of his clients including project blaster used this advice. After a while the pivot bolt mount becomes out of round and allows for "slop" in the mounting area. Also they will crack, seen this myself on 2 frames. He told me to weld 2 washers to the pivot mount area. One at each hole the pivot bolt goes into of equal in ID to the pivot mount holes. I'll have to look and see if I can find a pic and remember the thickness and OD of the washers.
 
I don't know how much I need these for my type of riding. Trail and mostly sandy river bed. I figured go ahead and do them since this is a 250 swap quad that is going to be bored, ported, and decked head to bring the compression way up. Also banshee axle, +3+1 a arms, and +5 swingarm.
 
Is hard to see where the gusset in the bottom left of image goes. Any one got a photo?
Gusset BL3 x1 between frame rails behind upper a-arm mounts)

Wanting to get as much info on this before I strip my bike for a rebuild next year and will get engineering shop to install them for me.