frustrated rider

[shad0]

man i tell ya, this is about the 5th atv related question i've asked on forums in one place or another. i have yet to get an answer. this is a fairly simple question so maybe i'll have more luck this time

i have a stock 2000 yfs200. it would fire on the 2nd kick and go pretty well. i removed the exhaust baffles and the airbox lid to increase performance a little. since then it is incredibly hard to cold start and would bog under throttle and die if you tried to let it idle until it got good and warm. i know i have to adjust the fuel mixture, and that's where i am screwed up. in trying to adjust it, i played with the air/fuel mixture screw on the side of the carb and the idle thumb screw under the seat. now, i adjusted the fuel mixture in 1/4 turn increments. the initial setting was 1 complete turn from full in. i adjusted it out another 1/2 turn. it started revving incredibly high so i started playing with the idle thumbscrew under the seat. now i can't get the thing to fire at all. i can reset the air/fuel mixture to stock, but i don't know what the stock setting is on the idle thumbscrew. can somebody tell me what the stock setting is for the idle and what adjustments i should actually be making to accomodate the increased airflow.

 

[245stroker]

There really is no stock setting on the idle screw, everyone will have theres a little different. If you're going to run with the air box lid off you need to bump up the main jet to accommidate for the increase in air

 

[MXmaineiac67]

There really is no stock setting on the idle screw, everyone will have theres a little different. If you're going to run with the air box lid off you need to bump up the main jet to accommidate for the increase in air

yup. that and the baffle being off will actually decrease your power a little bit without rejetting.

 

[shad0]

i sit here in shock and awe. 2 real life responses in a matter of minutes!! wow.

back on topic, i replace the airbox lid, set the mixture to 1 1/2 turns and it fires right up now. as for the jet, should i rejet to a #270? that seems to be what i am seeing recommended most. i was hoping i could just adjust the air/fuel mixture to compensate since it's still the stock exhaust and air filter. no luck there?

 

[245stroker]

with your jetting, the best thing you can do is do a plug check and go from there. with the lid back on, your stock jetting should be close

 

[djack12]

with the jetting your just going to have to work with it. it depends on where you live and ride.i am running a 260 main jet with my pipe,silencer,k&n air filter, and the air box lid removed. also are you still running the oil injection? if so ditch that and get a block off kit. mix 32:1

 

[shad0]

with your jetting, the best thing you can do is do a plug check and go from there. with the lid back on, your stock jetting should be close

yea it seems dead on again. a single kick without touching the throttle and it fires and idles. no bog under throttle. i was under the impression from reading random forums that i could adjust the AF screw to compensate for the increased airflow of the removed baffle and airbox lid. were they mistaken?

MXmaineiac67, i don't know if i'd agree. i'm sure somewhere along the lines there is a performance loss, but i felt an immediate gain from removing the airbox lid and exhaust baffle once the motor has warmed up. as it sits stock, i have to sit back in the saddle and goose the throttle a couple times in 2nd to get it to pick the front tires up at all, and even that is a small lift. without the airbox lid and baffle, it will pull the front wheels sitting normally in the saddle in 2nd without having to goose the throttle and use the front suspension to help get the wheels off the ground.

just for reference, the blaster is my womans ride. i ride a slightly modded raptor 660r to haul my 6'1, 190lb butt around. just trying to help her keep up a little. she's 5'10 and 160'ish

 

[shad0]

with the jetting your just going to have to work with it. it depends on where you live and ride.i am running a 260 main jet with my pipe,silencer,k&n air filter, and the air box lid removed. also are you still running the oil injection? if so ditch that and get a block off kit. mix 32:1

i have very immediate plans to remove the oil injection and run 32:1. however, with our marriage in 3 weeks, mods for the quads fall low in the list of financial priorities. i know i know, it's only $30, but i just dropped over $400 on a hydraulic brake conversion kit for her blaster and a race intake/reed cage/reeds, kiehin pe24 carb, throttle cable and uni air filter for my son's scrambler90. you wouldn't believe how difficult it is to find a mikuni vm16-438 carb, and how expensive they are when you find them. quite literally, upgrading the intake/reeds, carb, throttle cable and air filter was cheaper by 1/3 than buying a replacement oem carb. the only vm16-438 carb i found NOT from a polaris oem parts distributor was in the UK.

 

[djack12]

good luck i know what its like.