exhaust stud

haha i seen a thread on here where someone shows how to do it without buying a block off by using some black silicone and cuttin the hoses. dont seem hard, i think thats what im gonna do.
 
ok so back on topic with the exhaust stud. i couldnt find a stud however i found a 13mm bolt thats 1 1/2 inches long with a 8 x 1.25 thread pitch and it turns out that the bolt itself is too long haha so i took the stock nut and threaded it up the bolt upside down so that the washer part of the nut would be facing the head. then i tightened the bolt up in the head and used a 12mm wrench and ran the nut out the bolt and against the header flange. works great i like it better than the stock stud haha a little high temp loc-tite to ensure it dont back out. thanks for all yalls help
 
haha thanks, yea if i knew how to go about doin that i prolly would haha id like to have my name on something other than a bill. it works really good and i personally think it looks good too but im into oddball stuff like rat rods and such
 
ok so back on topic with the exhaust stud. i couldnt find a stud however i found a 13mm bolt thats 1 1/2 inches long with a 8 x 1.25 thread pitch and it turns out that the bolt itself is too long haha so i took the stock nut and threaded it up the bolt upside down so that the washer part of the nut would be facing the head. then i tightened the bolt up in the head and used a 12mm wrench and ran the nut out the bolt and against the header flange. works great i like it better than the stock stud haha a little high temp loc-tite to ensure it dont back out. thanks for all yalls help

OK, about bolts...
They are named by the outside diameter of the thread, not the wrench they take.
So that "13mm bolt" you used is actually an M8x1.25, which is the standard M8.
The Europeans like putting 13mm heads on M8 bolts and nuts (they call it ISO) whereas the Japanese prefer 12mm heads.

Now, about studs.
Studs are great! Every time you thread a bolt in and out of a threaded hole you do damage to it, especially in aluminum.
Normal wear and tear, cross threading at the start, damaged bolts, over torquing, rattling loose, heat, vibration, they all take their toll.
The end result is a stripped internal thread in an expensive part like your cylinder.
The answer is a stud. Made out of better metal than normal bolts, it is tightly threaded in and left there. No wear, no tear on the cylinder.
The flange lines up easier, and the nuts can be double locked if vibration is a problem.

If you don't put proper studs back in, it is highly likely you will be cursing yourself in days to come.
That $4 is worth it. "Pay me now or pay me later..."

Steve, the bolt nazi.