Engine life !

How many hours on your blaster before rebuild ?

  • 20 to 30 hours

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • 50 hours

    Votes: 3 15.0%
  • 100 hours

    Votes: 4 20.0%
  • dont know 4 sure, but been a few years !

    Votes: 13 65.0%

  • Total voters
    20
  • Poll closed .

sporty982000

New Member
Jul 10, 2012
762
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Illinois
I am real curious, as when I first came on here. I was reading posts. that some of you after 20/ 30 hours of riding, rebuild the top end.


I thought, wow, this seems very frequent.


So i thought a poll, might help me and others out.

If your blaster is seriously modded, you might want to share that. I naturally asume a super modded blaster is going to be rebuilt more often and if you drag race with it. Please mention this. Aswell as if you race it allot, at the track, ect.


Sporty
 
well right now im running stock last rebuilt in 92. running on 90 psi compression so will be rebuilding it this winter most likely also holds 7psi on the leak tester over the years i put rvt here and there will completely strip it all away when i do it again and will use cosmetic gasket's this time round... no racing for me just really hard wood's beater
 
i have close to 75 hrs on my KOR topend. it is still holding 155psi. If you take your time and follow the correct precedure and break-in routine then i'm sure you can make it last well over 100hrs.
 
i have close to 75 hrs on my KOR topend. it is still holding 155psi. If you take your time and follow the correct precedure and break-in routine then i'm sure you can make it last well over 100hrs.
yep mine held over 100 (i think) when it was first done and its taken this long to start loosing compression
 
Many people say that 100 hours is alot. Yeah right...ok

I say do regular inspections of the cylinder and pistons at 100 hour intervals. Its easy to pull the head & cylinder. Also do your routine compression checks to keep an eye on your static compression. If you are running a good oil and the proper fuel to oil ratio,your top end should last many years,not hours. If your top end is only lasting 20-30 hours,its time to get a different machinist,or stop working on your blaster and sell it,then go find a new hobby.
 
Many people say that 100 hours is alot. Yeah right...ok

I say do regular inspections of the cylinder and pistons at 100 hour intervals. Its easy to pull the head & cylinder. Also do your routine compression checks to keep an eye on your static compression. If you are running a good oil and the proper fuel to oil ratio,your top end should last many years,not hours. If your top end is only lasting 20-30 hours,its time to get a different machinist,or stop working on your blaster and sell it,then go find a new hobby.

despite the font fail, wise words
 
a smidge under 50, But that was due to the crank exploding it's stuffer...

I do believe This very last rebuild, I have less than 30 hours but I did fire it up with two cups of sandblasting material so I wasn't expecting much!
 
Many people say that 100 hours is alot. Yeah right...ok

I say do regular inspections of the cylinder and pistons at 100 hour intervals. Its easy to pull the head & cylinder. Also do your routine compression checks to keep an eye on your static compression. If you are running a good oil and the proper fuel to oil ratio,your top end should last many years,not hours. If your top end is only lasting 20-30 hours,its time to get a different machinist,or stop working on your blaster and sell it,then go find a new hobby.

This is very true! With the proper tolerances, jetting, and good oil, a Blaster engine will last for years with no problems. Also, if you take care of your engine, you can often just change the piston rings and do a light hone job when compression starts to drop. No need for an all-out rebuild.
 
This is very true! With the proper tolerances, jetting, and good oil, a Blaster engine will last for years with no problems. Also, if you take care of your engine, you can often just change the piston rings and do a light hone job when compression starts to drop. No need for an all-out rebuild.
true im only doing an all out rebuild because it been so long
 
i have close to 75 hrs on my KOR topend. it is still holding 155psi. If you take your time and follow the correct precedure and break-in routine then i'm sure you can make it last well over 100hrs.

expect much longer than that JonS,
i know i had well over 200, prolly closer to 300 hours on my last KOR rebuild, before my compression slowly dropped from 162 to 125 over the last few months of last season.
ken received my engine this spring and said everything looked great inside, w/ very minimal carbon build-up, <(maxima super m, LOL)
and that the piston/rings simply wore after that many hours.

good break-in, good oil, perfect jetting, a full warm up--every time, and good routine maintainence !!!!!!!

oh, and almost forgot.....a great builder, LOLI:I
 
A 2 stroke motor built with new components and assembled cleanly and with the correct tourque settings, will last for a very long time with the following.

Proper break in proceedure.

Proper warm up before work.

Correct oil and oil/fuel ratio for the CC rating.

Correct fuel and air/fuel ratio.

Correct inspection and routine maintainence.
 
My blaster is a 91. When I got it 2-3 years ago there was nothing left to the rear axle bearings. The first thing I did was tear it down for a quick rebuild. When I got to the engine I did a compression test and got 140psi out of a 21 year old machine. Looking for another engine to rebuild because I have a clutch problem.
 
After reading this thread, here’s my take on all of this.
1. A bone stock Blaster will run for hundreds of hours IF properly maintained AND ridden within the scope that it was built for. Yamaha built the Blaster as an entry level quad for beginners. Run chain saw oil, ride for miles on the road pinned in sixth gear, and clean the air filter once a year and all bets are off.
2. A Blaster engine in a slightly modified state (raised exhaust port, aftermarket pipe, air box mod) will require maintenance a bit sooner. The reason for this is simple. You just took a very poorly designed engine and made it quite a bit better. It revs higher and develops more cycles per operating hour.
3. A blaster engine in a slightly modified state (same as above) with a head redesign. This engine will require more frequent inspection due to the fact that the compression has been raised from 125 psi to around 160psi. The additional compression will give the rider a noticeable gain in performance but WILL put additional stress on internal engine components. These components include piston pins, rings, top end bearings, connecting rods, thrust washers, main bearings and lower connecting rod bearings.
4. Professionally ported cylinder with a redesigned head. Here’s the bad news boys…….You want power and every builder is delivering. Serious power comes at a price and I’m not talking about what you just paid me. Any engine placed in a high state of tune will wear faster than its bone stock counterpart. End of discussion. Check compression, piston clearance and the condition of the connection rod once a year. Gaskets are cheap…….I’m not. Piece of mind is priceless when you’re 15 miles in the woods.
5. My ride. 240 sleeved Yamaha cylinder, 5mm long rod, 4 mm stroked balanced crankshaft. I pulled it apart after 20 hours to do rings. It looked and measured fine. Changed the rings and ran it until it started making noise 100 hours later. It needs a Piston and a hone. I probably let it go longer than I should have. Keep in mind that my Blaster started life as a 15 HP piece of crap and now it eats piped Banshees for lunch. I take very good care of it and it gets the best maintenance that money can buy. I also beat it like a rented mule.
6. Top of the line drag Blaster. I can’t tell you how long they last because we don’t take chances with parts. Too much money invested. Ian has around 100 runs on his and we’ve changed the piston a couple of times. Everything else looks good.
You can’t measure an engines life by years. Hell, I can make one last for 50 years if the internal components stay lubed and I never ride it. An engines life is measured by hours. The more you build them, the more maintenance they’ll require.
I build a ton of YZ 125 and 250 engines every year. We keep a very close eye on the ones for our local sponsored boys. I changed Ben’s rings after 6 hours of him beating the living crap out of it. Every thing looked great. We ran a brand new top end for 25 hours and found that the stock Yamaha, cast piston skirts had worn .003. The bike still had great compression and wasn’t making noise. It was ready to blow up. What’s the lesson? Top level performance requires top level maintenance. A compression test is not the deciding factor when it comes to measuring wear of internal components. Fast means nothing if you don’t finish. Here’s the really bad news. Thinking of buying a four stroke? Your valves, timing chain, valve springs and piston are junk after 75 hours, if you’re slow and riding a stock bike. Get to the Pro Expert level and I’ll see you for a new top end every 40 hours and a full rebuild in about 100 hours. Break this rule and I’ll be watching you face plant over a 120’ triple jump. Very embarrassing in front of 1000 fans.

Ken
 
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Here’s the really bad news. Thinking of buying a four stroke? Your valves, timing chain, valve springs and piston are junk after 75 hours, if you’re slow and riding a stock bike.

Junk after 75 hours? Wow! I guess they don't make them like they use too. Things that make you go hmmm.
 
Junk after 75 hours? Wow! I guess they don't make them like they use too. Things that make you go hmmm.

It's not an issue of quality. It's an issue of trying to make a SUPER high strung small displacement single cylinder engine. If you make it turn enough RPM's they'll beat themselves to pieces.
 
My TRX has a complete TC Nationals engine and the worst it sees is a valve adjustment and rings about every 50 hours. They can last if built correctly....
 
Here’s the really bad news. Thinking of buying a four stroke? Your valves, timing chain, valve springs and piston are junk after 75 hours, if you’re slow and riding a stock bike.

So let me get this strait... You go and purchase a new stock "four stroke bike" ride it slow 5 hours a day for 15 days and the valves,timing chain,valve springs and pistons are all worn out junk after that 75 hours? Oooook If you say so. I'm not drinking that koolaid. Thats ridiculous.
 
W have 3 atvs, that are 4 strokes. older ones, got many hours on them. Still run good. only the yamaha moto4 200, rebuilt the top end on it early this year.

Took the valves and ect in, just to have them checked out and replaced, ect if bad. they past the leak down test, still worked well and sealed well.

So I was happy, I got away with just a hone and rings and gasket kit.

And funny thing. the darn people who owned before use, the silly people had it rebuilt. but they let it idle to much and not ride it, so the rings never seated ! from the new top end.

So, made it cheaper on me, when I dug into it, and only had to hone and place new rings in it.
ut I thought 4 strokes, unless all modified, were good for 200 to 300 hours.
Sporty
 
I don’t know anyone that rides slow for 5 hours a day. I do know a bunch of guys that beat the living crap out of their bikes for 20 minutes + 2 laps a few times every week. The four stroke maintenance I’m referring to applies to modern motocross engines with sintered metal seats and titanium valves. Bikes like the XR and TTR will be much more reliable. The factories admit that the stock valve springs have a life expectancy of 60 hours. Aftermarket springs and stainless steel valves will last longer but slow you down. When the springs get weak, you get valve float and bounce. This will distort and cup the seating area of the valve and eventually bend the valve. Keep cycling that valve and its head will break off causing catastrophic damage, turning a $1000 rebuild into a useless pile of junk. The key is to never let the parts get to the point of failure. The good news is we’re riding Blasters, not modern motocross bikes.
 
I agree with the modern 4 stroke motocross engine that OConnor is talking about. I have a friend that has a yz250F (completely stock) and rides it every day in the summer but does nothing for maintenance other than change the oil. well needless to say he has broken 5 valves in 2 years because of poor maintenance. and just as proof a kid he rides with has a yz426f and maintains his very well including valves and hasnt had a thing go wrong with it. some people just dont care.